Some basic tips for installing drywall
In centuries past, the interior walls and ceilings of homes were finished with the application of multiple coats of wet plaster.
Then, about the 1950s, solid sheets of paper-covered, compressed gypsum began to replace the traditional lath and plaster. Since it wasn’t applied wet, it was known as drywall.
While most people are familiar with the common 4-by8-foot sheets of ½-inch-thick drywall seen in home centers and lumber yards, there are actually a surprisingly wide variety of sizes, thicknesses, edge treatments, core additives and paper coatings available.
Thicknesses of ¼ and ⅜ inch are available for use over solid backings in remodeling situations, typically to cover problem areas such as bad plaster or old paneling.
In addition to the ½-inch thick material, sheets of ⅝inch thickness are commonly available, typically for ceilings and for use over framing supports up to 24 inches on center.
Besides the 4-by-8-foot sheets, which are easier to handle, there are 4-by-12-foot sheets, which have the advantage of requiring fewer seams.
Cutting drywall
Drywall cutting requires only a couple of inexpensive tools. You’ll need a utility knife with retractable, replaceable blades and some type of straightedge to guide the cut. Four-foot long aluminum or plastic T-squares are available inexpensively, and greatly simplify the cutting process.
You’ll also need a drywall saw, which is a small, inexpensive handsaw with coarse teeth that tapers to a point on the end.
Working from the face side of the sheet, place the straightedge along the line where you want to make the cut. Score through the face paper, just deep enough to get through the layer of paper and slightly into the gypsum.
Now, with a quick downward motion, snap the drywall along the cut line. This will break the gypsum core and leave the backing paper still intact, like a hinge.
Use your knife to cut the backing paper, and separate the cut piece from the rest of the sheet. Use a coarse rasp or a piece of coarse sandpaper wrapped around a block of wood to clean up the rough edge.
Be aware that drywall will dull your blades quickly, so plan on replacing them fairly often.
To cut out around electrical boxes and other obstructions, use your drywall saw. After laying out the location of the cut, place the point of the saw against the face of the drywall and tap it until it punctures the sheet, then saw out the waste material.
Installation
Typically, installation begins with ceiling. A small gap is left between the edges of the drywall and the spot where the ceiling framing meets the wall framing.
By installing the ceilings first, you then can cover that gap with the sheets you install on the walls. Install the drywall sheets so that the long dimension of the sheet runs perpendicular to the direction of the ceiling joists.
Start in one corner with a full sheet. Measure from the corner to the center of the joist that’s closest to, but less than 8 feet from, the corner (or 12 feet if you’re using 12-foot sheets). Cut the sheet to length, and you’re ready to go.
Drywall is actually easy to install, other than its weight.
The main thing to remember is that these sheets are big, awkward and flexible, making them very unwieldy for one person to handle alone.
After cutting the sheet to size, set up two ladders or benches. Working together, lift the sheet, backside up, and push it firmly into contact against the underside of the joists.
Check the alignment carefully, and make sure the end is centered on the joist. If you miss your layout here, you’ll have problems with each of the following sheets.
Fasten the sheet in place using drywall nails or drywall screws.
Nails are installed with any type of smooth-face hammer that has a convex head. They should be driven in just deep enough to dent — or dimple — the face paper of the drywall, but not deep enough to go through it.
Screws can be installed with an electric or cordless screw gun, and you want the screw head to end up just below the surface of the paper but not puncture through it.
Shopping for supplies
Drywall supplies and tools are available through just about any home center, lumber yard, hardware store, discount center and other retailer where building materials are sold. You can arrange for delivery of the drywall, but expect to pay a small fee per sheet. Some retailers will even stack the sheets in the various rooms where you need them, including on the second floor.
Rental yards have many of the drywall installation and finishing tools you’ll need, as well. If you have a lot of ceiling drywall to install, you might want to consider renting a drywall jack to lift and position the sheets and hold them in place while you fasten them.