Editor’s Note:

Chef John Bennett is a legend in the local dining community for his many contributions as a pioneer in expanding the scope of hospitality in these parts.

Those who know him agree, even if they have to ignore a few brushes with his wrath or famously razor-sharp rejoinders.

A decline in his health that started last November has made it impossible for JB to put off writing his memoirs any longer, try as he may. He’s been working hard, but maybe not hard enough.

Strong evidence has come to light indicating Oklahoma’s chef emeritus isn’t spending enough time completing the tome. Photographic evidence, as a matter of fact.

The photo depicts JB with American gustatory icon James Beard, for whom the country’s major culinary awards are named, and someone called “Mama.”

I received the photo via text from JB last week. Funny thing is, JB had never seen the photo before last week either.

Not until his upstairs neighbor, David Roush, noticed the image hanging on a wall 1,677 miles away from the address they share. Good neighbor that he is, Roush snapped a photo and sent it back to Oklahoma, explaining it had been taken inside Mama’s on Washington Square.

As JB will explain, he introduced Beard to Mama but never mentioned her restaurant to Roush. The lesson? Fate will get your attention even if it means getting the neighbors involved.

Here, chef Bennett recalls how he landed in San Francisco and his recollections of Mama’s on Washington Square. — Dave Cathey, Food Editor