The Oklahoman

Gorgeous Giorgio

Armani’s new collection makes formal fashion ‘wearable and accessible to everyone’

- BY COLLEEN BARRY

Some menswear brands gently pushed the gender envelope this season. There were short-shorts, of the kind worn by the protagonis­t in the Oscar-winning Italian film “Call Me by Your Name,” ruffled shirts (even in Gucci’s absence) and jeweled necklaces.

Not so Giorgio Armani, showing his latest collection at the recent Fashion Week in Milan, Italy.

He anchored the collection in the timeless, masculine double-breasted jacket — but his was no stuffy affair. More formal versions had wide-notched lapels in fabrics, while washed-out linen numbers had a softness that suggested an evening seaside stroll, while sportier iterations came in printed silk.

Armani said he aimed to democratiz­e the formal wardrobe staple, making it “wearable and accessible to everyone.”

Trousers were mostly wide-legged and always cuffed. Shorts fell loosely to the knee.

While Armani showed what may have been the only tie on Milan runways this season — and just one — he also sent well-toned models down the runway barecheste­d beneath the jackets.

Many of the looks were finished with a gaucho-style hat that matched the ruggedness of a pair of jacketless looks with weathered leather vests over black T-shirts. Denim was light blue and soft in pleated trousers with matching cropped jackets or collarless shirts.

“It is very difficult to talk about the future of male elegance, especially if I see my things near others completely different and totally far from this type of elegance,” Armani said backstage.

With fashion living a moment of logo-mania, Armani also brought back a gently curved version of the GA logo from the archives. The 83-year-old designer closed the show with a plain dark T-shirt with the Giorgio signature overtop “Gorgeous” in block letters, reminiscen­t of a 1982 Time Magazine cover “Giorgio’s Gorgeous Style.”

“Everyone calls me Mr. Armani. But at my age, it is better to show familiarit­y. So, call me Giorgio.”

Models wear creations as part of the Armani men’s 2019 Spring-Summer collection, unveiled June 18 during the Fashion Week in Milan, Italy.

 ?? [AP PHOTO] ?? A model wears a creation as part of the Armani men’s 2019 Spring-Summer collection, unveiled June 18 during the Fashion Week in Milan, Italy.
[AP PHOTO] A model wears a creation as part of the Armani men’s 2019 Spring-Summer collection, unveiled June 18 during the Fashion Week in Milan, Italy.
 ?? [AP PHOTO] ?? Models wear creations as part of the Armani men’s 2019 Spring-Summer collection, unveiled June 18 during the Fashion Week in Milan, Italy.
[AP PHOTO] Models wear creations as part of the Armani men’s 2019 Spring-Summer collection, unveiled June 18 during the Fashion Week in Milan, Italy.
 ?? [AP PHOTO] ?? Designer Giorgio Armani, center, poses with models at the end of the Armani men’s 2019 Spring-Summer collection, unveiled June 18 during the Fashion Week in Milan, Italy.
[AP PHOTO] Designer Giorgio Armani, center, poses with models at the end of the Armani men’s 2019 Spring-Summer collection, unveiled June 18 during the Fashion Week in Milan, Italy.
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