FIERY FOWL
Hot and getting hotter, Nashbird is looking to expand
Nashbird, 1 NW 9, opened last summer with a good problem — immediate popularity. Demand was such that it created logistical problems for managing partner Marc Dunham. Lines streamed from the counter, out the door, down the stairs and halfway up NW 9.
At the time it opened, the gospel of Nashville-style hot fried chicken was spreading across the country like the wildfire it creates in one’s mouth. Demand for the fiery fowl hasn’t slowed, but the restaurant has learned to manage it and is now eyeing expansion.
The huge opening blasted projections and put Dunham quickly to work rewriting systems, orders and
operations to adjust and gradually wrestled his very popular infant restaurant into operating in a sustainable fashion.
For those who missed the Nashville hot train that chugged through the South over the past few years, it is in reference to a style popular in Music City that dates back generations. The end result is a style of fried chicken not far removed from the flavor profile of Buffalo wings, minus the blue cheese and celery salt.
Nashville hot fried chicken is coated in spicy finishing sauce, but it isn’t as messy as the butter-hot sauce coating of a Buffalo wing.
The spice-averse needn’t worry about their proverbial doors being blown off upon arrival at Nashbird. Heat levels range from “chirp” to “crazy hot,” and that last one is no exaggeration — it is strictly for Tefloncoated tongues, wrestlers trying to sweat off a few pounds quick or folks wanting to flush their tear ducts without having to watch “This is Us.”
“Hot Dang!” is perfect for my palate, and the chicken comes on or off the bone, on a bun, in a wrap, salad, bucket or biscuit, with plenty of sides to tag along.
Dunham said the most popular dish on the menu is without a doubt the tenders, but it’s easy to see why suburb-bound downtowners would pop by for a bucket on the way home from work. The jumbo chicken wings also will have you rethinking your hot wing game. Nashbird and George’s Happy Hog champion the whole wing, and for that they are heroes.
The fryer isn’t limited to chicken. It also produces fries, onion rings and battered pickle slices. Potato salad and macaroni and cheese also are available. The cucumber salad is a favorite.
INSPIRED TO COOK
Dunham, who grew up in New Braunfels, Texas, came to the fried chicken business honestly.
“I was the youngest of six, and my mom worked three jobs,” Dunham explained. “One of them was at a fried chicken restaurant on the weekends.”
Dunham said his mother’s work ethic and a desire to have things of his own inspired him to seek a job in a restaurant as soon as he could. By the time he was finished with high school, he was blood-sick with desire to found his career in the kitchen.
“I left for New York shortly after the graduation ceremony,” Dunham recalled. “My car was packed and ready to go.”
That began one of two stints in the Big Apple, where Dunham earned his stripes. He also worked as a culinary instructor in Austin, Texas, for a time. He came to Oklahoma by way of love, marrying the former Jenni Townley — who recently was named head chef for the new Sur La Table store that opens in Classen Curve in a couple weeks.
He ran the kitchen at The Ranchers Club before coming to Oklahoma City to establish the School of Culinary Arts at Francis Tuttle Technology Center.
Since leaving Francis Tuttle, Dunham partnered with Steve Mason and Aimee Ahpeatone, at Iguana Mexican Grill, for a successful renovation of the concept. Then they opened Nashbird a couple doors down after Hillbilly’s Po’ Boys closed.
Nashbird has a full bar with signature cocktails, slushies, beer and wine. Since Oct. 1, it has had Happy Hour daily from 2 to 5 p.m.
Dunham said the concept has reached the point where expansion is realistic.
“We’re looking at some properties in Edmond,” Dunham said. “Should have something signed very soon.”
Until then, you can check out the hot chicken at Nashbird daily at 10:30 a.m. The restaurant closes at 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday; 9 p.m. the rest of the week.
For full menu and services, go to nashbirdchicken.com or call 6009718.