Osteria offers casual elegance with Italian soul
Nichols Hills Plaza added to its dining arsenal over the weekend with the opening of Osteria Craft Cocktails & Casual Eatery, 6430 Avondale Drive.
The new concept from local chef Jonathon Stranger and celebrity chef Fabio Viviani takes over the space previously occupied by Starbucks and the original Ground Floor Cafe. The restaurant features classic Italian cuisine, including pasta made in house daily, brickoven pizzas and antipasti.
The bar is the playground of partner Drew Tekell, who has curated an impressive list of cocktails, spirits and wines. I was able to make it to the final preview service before the restaurant opened Saturday.
Dinner started with cocktails. Was able to sample the Corpse Reviver No. 2, Mulo Di Fernet and Wind Through the Orchard. All pleasing and wellbalanced. The Wind Through the Orchard will have visions of sugar-dappled apples in a bourbon blanket dancing through your head for days.
Appetizers included the Coccoli platte (puffed pastry with smoked prosciutto, stracchino, truffled honey and herb oil) and Braised Spanish Octopus.
The Coccoli arrived with more pomp and circumstance, but the octopus arrived fork-tender, and that’s no small feat.
Layers of flavor lie beneath two coils of octopus thanks to sauteed celery, tender fennel, Cerignola olives and hot pepper, commiserating with Burnt Lemon Butter Sauce. Balanced by a bright Romesco, this dish was a true highlight.
The warm Osteria Chopped Salad will make a fine meal for lunch once that service begins. Charred radicchio sets the stage for a salad of romaine lettuce, Soppressata, spicy provolone, spiced chickpeas, pepperoncini peppers, cherry tomatoes and
pickled red onions in a house vinaigrette.
We then moved tried two pastas and an entree starting with classic Cacio e Pepe (Cheese and Pepper) spaghetti. This simple, Italian classic gets the care and attention it needs with house-made spaghetti and Pecorino Romano for extra bite.
The Rigatoni in a Jar is equal parts Italian soul food and audacity. The simple combination of handmade pasta, Parmesan, cream, house-smoked bacon and egg yolk arrives in a clear jar before it’s shaken (not stirred) and transferred into a serving dish at the table. In word(s): More please.
The Lamb Osso Bucco is served on the bone, which the glazed lamb fell from at the fork’s first provocation. Beneath, braised leaks and spring peas studded with
pancetta benefited from the rich lamb’s influence.
For dessert, we tried the Bomboloni (sugar doughnuts served with Key Lime curd, vanilla custard and chocolate ganache) and Lemon Budino. Suspect they will sell more doughnuts, but for me the lemon pudding with berries macerated in balsamic vinegar and a white chocolate crisp was the more composed and balanced choice.
Viviani was a contestant on season five of “Top Chef,” earning audience favorite honors. He’s written three cookbooks and has six restaurant concepts. He also has a line of wines and a lobstershipping operation. Check out all his entrepreneurial endeavorshere.
Stranger has been active in the local diningsphere the past decade, starting with his Table One collaboration
with Ryan Parrott. Then he co-founded Ludivine with Russ Johnson. After he left his Ludivine, Stranger partnered with childhood friend Tekell to open En Croute and St. Mark’s Chop Room.
That duo recently led a group of investors in buying Prairie Wolf Distillery before getting Osteria opened. You’ll find plenty of Prairie Wolf influence and wines from Viviani’s line available.
Osteria plans to add lunch service in the next 45 (to 60) days. For reservations, call 254-5058. To see the full menu with more information, go online toosteriaokc.com.
COMING SOON: Next week, we’ll have a look at the Kitchen at Commonplace,
which is an extension of Commonplace Books — a spot you won’t want to miss this holiday season.