RIGHT ON 'CUE
Local pitmasters finding new homes
The Food Dude features local pitmasters who have found new homes
Al ot of new barbecue options have popped up around the metro recently, two at opposite ends of Oklahoma City's metropolitan area and two at opposite ends of the Plaza District. Maples Barbecue, property of Day One Concepts (Waffle Champion, Buttermilk, nonesuch), made its move from the great outdoors to a permanent home on the western edge of the Plaza late last year. Maples now resides in the former Chiltepes Cantina. Shortly before that opening, Krow’s Nest BBQ and Catering took over the kitchen space inside Saints Pub on the other end of the stretch of NW 16 Street that makes up The NW 16th Street Plaza District. Maples serves straightforward Texas Hill Country barbecue, where thick primegrade brisket is king. Krow's Nest serves classic Oklahoma barbecue plus brawny barbecue-affected burgers, sandwiches and appetizers. Long-time truck operators Cornish Smokehouse and Big O’s Pork and Dreams now have permanent home. Nicole and Chris Cornish opened their first store at 801 SW 119 St. last fall. Owen Wilson Jr. operates Big O's Pork and Dreams at 285 S Santa Fe Ave., taking over the former Mutt’s Amazing Hot Dog location in Edmond. Maples excels at sliced brisket and pork ribs. The Krow's Nest has some serious sandwich combinations in need of further inspection. Big O's serves a mean chopped brisket sandwich and tasty ribs in a spotless, inviting dining room. Cornish Smokehouse wowed me with smoked sausage served with grilled onions and peppers, plus a moist, delicious smoked turkey. Brisket and ribs were exemplary. I've made only one visit each to the four, but left each anxious to return. Unfortunately, 51-year-old me can't consume smoked meats with the same reckless abandon as 41-year-old me. So, it might take a little time to collect all the data I need to form a well-rounded opinion. In the meantime, let me know what you think about our new barbecue options (dcathey@oklahoman.com).
Paseo not passing time
A recent lunch trip to the Paseo Arts District revealed history's most gradual comeback continues. Just east of Paseo's main drag a couple of exciting developments are at different junctures. The Mayan Taqueria and Cantina opened at the corner of NW 30 Street and Hudson late last year. It took over the space occupied by El Fogoncito. Was a fan of that gem, but The Mayan is even more polished. Enjoyed some phenomenal Queso Fundido with beef and chorizo and a Cochinita Pibil burrito, which was on special. Word is a liquor license is on its way, expanding the taqueria's horizons into Margaritaville. But that's not nearly all. Construction on Humankind Hospitality's Frida looks either on or ahead of schedule for a spring opening, and 84 Hospitality's newest concept is starting to take shape. Gun Izakaya will soon open in a portion of the former Craig's Emporium, adding to an impressive arsenal that currently includes Empire Slice House, Easy E, and Goro Ramen and Izakaya in the Plaza District, Revolucion west of downtown, a bar in Uptown called Ponyboy and a mobile kitchen called Burger Punk. Chef Jeff Chanceleune, who is a partner in 84 Hospitality, including founding chef of Goro, told me back in the fall the concept initially was part of Goro. “We just didn't quite have enough space to do it all the way,” Chanceleune said. The Plaza's loss is the Paseo's gain with Gun, which will feature Japanese street food like yakitori (grilled chicken skewers), okonomiyaki (savory griddle cake), fried chicken, and house-made pickles. Sake, beer and whiskey are ideal for washing down these traditional Japanese noshes, but don't expect the bar to be limited to those spirits. Finally, I ran into chef Tim Mort of Holey Rollers, who will install the menu for the soon-to-return Red Rooster. Renovations were under way when we spoke, and he expected to be testing out kitchen equipment imminently. The Red Rooster's return to the market is being driven by Holey Rollers principles Andrea Koester, Josh
Gautreaux and John Otjen. Look for that iconic bar to return this spring.
Bricktown Brewery adds a six-pack Bricktown Brewery
rolled out a new array of items to its menu this week, which I was able to sample recently. Not quite a decade ago, Buck Warfield led a group of investors into purchasing and stabilizing the pioneering concept. Warfield, who had a brew pub background, and his partners took the original single concept and have expanded into a regional chain of more than a dozen locations stretching from El Paso, Texas, to Springfield, Missouri. Warfield expressed his satisfaction with changes to changes to state liquor laws over the last two summers. He said it's allowed his brewers to improve beer quality to the point the company is now considering canning and distribution. Menu additions include sandwiches, salads, and appetizers. The first thing we tried was a hot fig and goat cheese dip served with toasted pita and apple slices. The dip was creamy and rich, which worked well with the pita but a smear across an apple slice was heaven. Seriously. The Pork Green Chili Totchos are a fusion of popular gut-bombs topped with a fried egg. Tater tots are made in house then topped with pulled pork, green chili, cheese, and bacon, before the fried egg is dropped on top. Everything about this dish screams “don't do it,” but of course it's delicious so you do. Sandwiches include a Steak & Cheddar, which features sliced tri-tip, and the Mac'd Grilled Cheese & Ham Sandwich with San Marzano Tomato Soup. You can sample these additions at either the original location downtown, Remington Park, Midwest City, Shawnee, or Edmond. For more information, go to bricktownbrewery.com.
Quick bites
The Oklahoma City Museum of Art will host its 35th Annual Omelette Party at the Bricktown Events Center, 425 E California Ave. from 7 p.m. to midnight Friday. This year's Eggchanted Fairy Tale party will features a host of local chefs preparing egg dishes including Yokozuna's Seth Rogers preparing a traditional Japanese Tamago Nigiri, macaroons from Belle Kitchen, a Shrekthemed “Ogre Eye” from The Manhattan, and fondue from The Melting Pot. Other chefs and restaurants participating include Beau Stephenson, Bin 73; Bill Leib, Francis Tuttle Technology Center; Dan Arries, Skirvin Hilton's Park Avenue Grill; Donnell Hardimon, Museum Café, James Vu and Tiare Keahi, La Brasa/ Kong’s Tavern; Jason Campbell, Mary Eddy’s Kitchen X Lounge; Jimmy Mays, The Hamilton; Jonas Favela, The Union Wood Fired Grill; Pak Kwan, Kwan’s Kitchen; Larry J. McNeal, McNeal’s Catering; Matthew Sebacher, Tamashii Ramen; Kamala Gamble and Barbara Mock, Kam’s Kookery; La Oaxaquena Bakery, Paseo Grill, and The Winston. Tickets are $100 for museum members and $125 for nonmembers. They can be purchased online at www.okcmoa.com/events. Construction begins next week on the first Razzoo’s Cajun Café in the Chisholm Creek development. Razzoo's boasts more than 20 locations in Texas, and one in North Carolina. The Oklahoma City store, due to open this summer, represents the first out-of-state expansion for the concept since 2001. It will follow the imminent addition of Birra Birra Craft Pizzeria to Chisholm Creek, which is currently home to Ganache Patisserie, Firebirds Wood-Fired Grill, Chalk Luxury Sports Bar, Republic Gastropub and several others. … Tsubaki Szechuan, 1117 NW 25 St., has closed indefinitely. The announcement was made via social media early Monday, drawing angst from the dozens of local chefs who frequent the restaurant adjacent to the Super Cao Nguyen Market. Later that day, I spoke briefly with chef/ owner Henry Yang, who indicated the restaurant will reopen in some form in the near future. For more details on this developing story, go online to the Food Dude blog (newsok.com/ blogs/food-dude). You'll also find nuggets about a new local beer launching this weekend, the University of Oklahoma honoring celebrity chef alum Rick Bayless, the return of the Caffeine Crawl, a new sweet shot on the south side and details about chef Vuong Nguyen's multifaceted return to the market.