SPICING UP THE PASEO
Food Dude Dave Cathey shares the latest in Oklahoma City-area dining, including the opening of Frida Southwest in the Paseo
Humankind Hospitality ( Picasso Cafe, Oso on Paseo, The Other Room) president Shaun Fiaccone is
banking on the adage about good things coming to those who wait.
That's because it took more than five years to bring to fruition Frida Southwest, the latest in a succession of dining gems added to the Paseo Arts District. Along with the recent opening of 84 Hospitality's Gun Izakaya, the Paseo is suddenly the hottest spot in town for dining. And if he wasn't sure Frida would do it, Fiaccone backed a second concept in the same building at 500 Paseo called The Daley.
Frida boasts a stunning dining room and an ambitious menu, each aimed at standard-bearing in their own way. Seating options are plentiful from the gorgeous ovate bar to boundless shaded outdoor seating, but the open main dining room is a stunner. A wall
of windows ensure daytime dining will always bathe its earth tones in natural light. The room's rounded corners set up quirky seating options that almost feel like a large indoor patio. In the center sets a large round table for parties of up to 10, maybe 12.
The restaurant has three outdoor patios, including a rooftop bar out the south exit. The west patio isn't yet furnished, but the main mostly covered patio next to the entrance is gorgeous and inviting.
I've tried a few of the cocktails, including a classic Paloma and two original cocktails called Tang and Avocado Toast. The Paloma was on point, evoking poolside dreams, as it should. The Avocado Toast is made with avocado-infused tequila a pineapple liqueur with a savory spice-lick on the rim. It's another that might make you wish you were lounging on the rooftop with no phone and nowhere to be anytime soon. Tang is a tasty variation on the Lemon Drop with a hint of tangerine.
Executive chef Quinn Carroll's menu draws inspiration from Mexico, as the name implies, but expands beyond the confines of Mexican cuisine. Humankind Hospitality's culinary team, including chefs Ryan Parrott and Chris McKenna, have worked on the menu for at least two years.
I've tried the Queso Fundido with house-made chips. Melted cheeses served on a cast-iron skillet with rajas (roasted vegetables), pickled Fresno pepper and cilantro with a basket of crunchy corn house-made tortilla chips. You get the picture.
The Red Chile Shrimp is served on griddled corncakes with a dollop of guacamole. It's a great way to start a lighter meal with bold flavors.
The Smokestack Enchiladas are a reminder that if you're going to go to the trouble to make chicken enchiladas, it is pointless to do so if that chicken isn't smoked to perfection. I enjoyed the El Paso/ New Mexico method of stacking the enchiladas flat (think Huevos Motulenos from Café Kacao or Café Antigua). Aged cheddar round out the dish, which is smothered in green chile sauce. Crema is written across the top while heirloom pinto beans offer foundation.
The pepita-crusted relleno was stuffed with quinoa, queso fresco, toasted walnuts and black beans served with Chipotle Tomato Sauce. Not enough survived to require even a small to-go box. The Jidori chicken was juicy and flavorful. Also enjoyed the grilled asparagus and ancho chile demi served with it.
Also sampled Truffled Corn Risotto, which was a nice zag to the southwest flavor profiles, and hints at the direction the restaurant is likely to head as it grows and evolves.
Probably the most impressive thing Frida has that no other restaurant does is The Daley.
This tiny room is adjacent to the bar at Frida but with its own patio and exterior entrance is equal parts living room and bar.
Comfortably upscale, The Daley offers compelling contrast to Frida. Instead of a menu inspired by the inevitable clash of bordering countries and their cultures, The Daley is a distillation of domestic dining history: French onion dip, pigs in a blanket, crab cakes and shrimp cocktail for appetizers with sandwiches in a Lobster Louie and Reuben plus Tempura Shrimp and prime rib-eye for entrees.
The Daley has two pages of signature cocktails to work through plus a nice selection of wine and local beers. I suspect if Don Draper had ever lived and further happened to reside in the 405, The Daley would've been on his rotation with Junior's.
Frida Southwest is open for lunch 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. Monday through Saturday and daily starting at 5 p.m. Sunday supper ends at 9 p.m. Dinner service ends at 10 p.m. Monday through Thursday and 11 p.m. on Friday and Saturday. The Daley stays open a little later each night. For full menus of both and more information, go to fridasouthwest.com or call 683-7432.
Clambake time at Rococo
Rococo will host a clambake on Friday at the Northpark location with some new wrinkles this time.
“What we've done in the past is a buffet with a prompt start time of noon on Saturday afternoons,” executive chef and partner Jason Bustamante said. “This year, we are switching it up. We will be doing all the great food plated.”
And they're going to do it at dinnertime, 7 p.m. with some flexibility when you call in your reservation.
“When you're ready, we will get you started with a bowl of Dirty Chowder, then the entrée which will include a pound and a quarter to a pound and a half lobster,” Bustamante said.
The lobster is also served with mussels, clams, corn on the cob, potatoes, and Andouille sausage.
Bustamante said they also will have live music.
Cost is $75, make your reservations by calling 212-4577.
Odyssey de Culinaire returns
Tickets are still available for Thursday night's Odyssey de Culinaire dinner at the Skirvin Hilton Hotel, 1 Park Ave.
The annual two-night, two-city event raises money for Oklahoma's Pro-Start program, which creates scholarships for students interested in a career in the culinary arts with a pair of five-course dinners paired with wine.
This is a great opportunity to support the next generation of 405 chefs, plus you'll be among the first to get a taste of chef Joshua Valentine's new concept Livegrass Butcher and Bistro, which opens in Edmond this fall.
Joining Valentine are chefs Kevin Lee, The Social Order Dining Collective; Theron Jessop, The Springs at the Artesian Hotel; and host chef Dominic Trapanese for a “Tiki Takeover.”
Perhaps the coolest part of Odyssey is how it pairs current ProStart students in high school with chefs to conceive and execute each course.
Odyssey is one the Oklahoma Restaurant Association's signature annual events. It begins with a champagne reception at 6 p.m.; dinner at 7 p.m. Tickets are $125 per event. A purchase of a table for seven earns an eighth seat free.
The 405 talent will have their hands full topping last week's soire in Tulsa where chef's made a menu out of their favorite songs. Check the Food Dude blog for photos.
For tickets to the Oklahoma City event, click go online to okrestaurants.com or call 800-375-8181.