REMEMBERING CULINARY ICON
Oklahoma loses its first culinary icon
Dave Cathey tries to keep chef John Bennett's memory alive through food and recipes
Last week the 405 said farewell to its first culinary icon, John Bennett.
That's what chef Brad Johnson called JB during a recording of the “Community Table” podcast. It was an accurate assessment of the man's legacy. His stamp on Oklahoma's culinary identity is indelible. We talked about it for about an hour, which was only about seven hours shorter than JB would've preferred. Check it out online at oklahoman.com/ dave-cathey.
For me, JB started as the subject of a story about his lifelong friendship with Julia Child about the time the film “Julie and Julia” hit theaters. From there he became my No. 1 lunch mate for more than five years. During that time I learned there was more to JB than a passion for food. His worship of old-time singer Sophie Tucker
was so intense he eventually became friends with the grand dame in her later years. JB also was close friend of the great maestro Arthur Fiedler.
That said, food was in JB's thoughts all the time. In our last conversation, two days before his health took a turn, he was plotting how to get to Gun Izakaya as soon as possible. And after that, Frida Southwest, and so on. JB's passion for local dining never ceased. His interest in who was pushing culinary boundaries, who was properly invested in service, and how well operators were putting it all together were a constant subject of conversation.
But at the end of the day, JB loved to perform. There was nothing he loved more than to command the undivided attention of an audience. Few things energized him like going on camera to share his knowledge, wisdom and wit.
The local hospitality community is planning a celebration or two in his name. Opportunities to memorialize and share memories will be plentiful starting in August. His Facebook page has become a memorial in and of itself.
As for my part, I'm going to do what JB would've wanted most: Keep his memory and passion alive through food and recipes.
One of my fondest memories with Oklahoma's First Chef was filmed in 2011 at the Rappaport family's Culinary Kitchen, where he made Boeuf Bourguignon (Beef Burgundy).
JB was in his element that day, and the dish, served in an impeccable dish from his collection, was perfection. Here is the recipe he'd used to make the dish since the early 1960s. You can check out the video as well as the “Community Table” podcast online at oklahoman.com/dave-cathey.
BEEF BOURGUIGNON
• 8 ounces bacon, coarsely chopped
• 3 pounds well-trimmed boneless beef chuck, cut into 1 1/2-inch cubes (from
• 7-bone chuck roast)
• 1/3 cup all purpose flour
• 1 1/4 pounds boiling onions, peeled could use the small frozen boiling onions
• 3/4 pound large carrots, cut into 1-inch pieces • 4 celery stalks cut into 1 inch pieces on the diagonal.
• 6 white new potatoes, peeled and quartered. • 6 large garlic cloves, peeled (left whole)
• 3 cups canned beef broth
• 1/2 cup cognac or brandy
• 2 750-ml bottles of good red Burgundy wine • 1 pound crimini or brown button mushrooms • 1 cup fresh or frozen green peas ( optional )
• 1/ 3 cup chopped fresh thyme or 2 tablespoons dried
• 1 tablespoon dark brown sugar
• 1 tablespoon tomato paste
Preheat oven to 325 F. Saute bacon in heavy large Dutch oven over high heat until brown and crisp, about 8 minutes. Using slotted spoon, transfer bacon to paper towels. Season beef generously with salt and pepper; coat with 1/3 cup flour, using all of flour.
Working in 3 batches, brown beef in same pot over high heat, about 5 minutes per batch. Transfer meat to large bowl. Add onions and carrots to same pot and sauté until light brown, about 6 minutes. Add garlic and sauté 1 minute. Transfer vegetables to bowl with beef. Add 1 cup broth and cognac to pot; boil until reduced to glaze, scraping up browned bits, about 8 minutes. Return meat and vegetables and their juices to pot. Add wine, mushrooms, thyme, sugar, tomato paste and 2 cups broth. Bring to boil, stirring occasionally. Cover pot and place in oven. Cook until beef is tender, about 1 hour and 30 minutes. Add celery and potatoes 30 minutes into the cooking time. Stir in peas after heat has been turned off.
Ladle liquid from stew into large saucepan. Spoon off fat. Boil liquid until reduced to 2 3/4 cups. Season with salt and pepper. Pour liquid back over beef and vegetables.
Served with warm, buttered noodles with plenty of crusty bread.
JB's note: I like it best when it's been prepared a day ahead, refrigerated then rewarmed over low heat before serving.
Source: chef John Bennett, Oklahoma City
Plaza adds burger concept
New State Burgers opened last week in The 16th Street Plaza District last week. Chef Robert Black's Spring Board consulting company helped Jay Iaquinta, Chris Gomez, Jordan Harris and Tyler Maune realize their dream of opening a concept specializing in premium burgers, craft cocktails and local beer.
The 1,250-square foot space across the street from Goro Ramen Bar and The Mule fits right into the eclectic 16th Street Plaza District at 1705 NW 16. Interior designer Sara Kate Little has created a comfortable, elegant space with a 14-seat bar outfitted with with nine beer taps and a cocktail program unafraid of adventure.
I haven't had a chance to sample the entire menu, but I can certainly vouch for the Hot Hamburger, which is essentially a double burger topped with fries and smothered in brown gravy.
Black said the dish was one he contributed based on him growing up in Shattuck.
”There was a place we used to go when I was a little kid, and this was my favorite burger there,” he
said. The place he visited was in Bartlesville and it was called Murphy's Steak House. It's alive and well and still serving hot hamburgers daily. “It's my favorite thing on the menu,” Black said.
Sold. But first we had some gravy fries because, and here's a pro tip, when a kid from Shattuck grows up to be a professional chef, odds are his brown gravy will rule.
And it does. Served over the fries, it's accompanied by thick hunks of bacon and sunny-side eggs.
The Hot Hamburger didn't disappoint. It's a trip down memory lane for your olfactory senses.
Lori, my stringer from the vegetarian bureau, reported the black bean burger was exemplary “but those fries …” Yes, those fries. Great under an egg, great sandwich between gravy and a burger, great by themselves. So, too, was the cucumber slaw for those with strength enough to say “no” to fries.
Quick Bites
The Collective opened Monday. For a first look at the multifaceted dining venue, go to the Food Dude blog, oklahoman. com/blogs/food-dude.
August promises a new plant-based restaurant called Plant for Midtown and seven more new concepts at Parlor OKC on the east side of downtown.
Rapper and entrepreneur Jabee Williams will open Ground House Burgers
on NE 23 Street this fall.
Piatto Italian Kitchen,
2920 NW 63, will open first week of August, according to owner Enis Mullaliu.