Where to go for advice for planting trees
You may still be planting replacement trees and shrubs that were damaged or died this past winter. Talk to your local nurseryman and do some research as you make landscape plant selections.
You also can go to the Oklahoma Proven website (www.oklahomaproven.org) to see some great choices. These plants are well-adapted to Oklahoma growing conditions, usually readily available, resistant to pests, and non-invasive and includes shrubs, annual and perennials, as well.
When you plant trees, be sure to dig the planting hole two to three times the diameter of the tree’s root ball and no deeper or only slightly deeper than the root ball itself. In clay and poorly draining soils, you can plant trees 1 to 3 inches above grade and apply a light mulch over the top of the ball. Plant trees at original grade in sandy and welldrained soils.
While planting, you also should be sure to keep the root ball moist, especially on windy days. Be sure to remove the bag, container, and all strings and wires from the trunk. The burlap of “balled and burlapped” trees may be left on to decay, but be sure to lay or cut burlap back away from trunk and cover with soil.
If roots are excessive and circling, score the outer edge of the root ball by slightly severing or scratching the root system, but do not cut deeply into the root ball. This will help the roots move into the native soil.
When filling in (backfilling) the planting hole, always use the native soil and tamp lightly. Soil amendments are not necessary and may result in further complications such as root rot. It is best for your new young tree to only be backfilled with the native soil that you are planting it in. The trees root will develop better and move into the native soil quicker, helping it establish.
A new tree has a limited capacity for utilizing fertilizer until it starts to establish its root system. Most containergrown plants already have fertilizer mixed into the soil in their pot when you purchase them. If a soil test reveals fertilizer is needed, try to amend the entire area and do not add fertilizer directly to the planting hole.
Newly planted trees should be watered well at the time of planting and during establishment, and may need to be watered two or three times a week in extremely hot, dry, windy weather. Apply water slowly at the base of newly planted trees. Be cautious not to overwater by making certain the timing and patterns of lawn watering systems are not overlapping into plant beds and too much water is being applied.
Apply at least 1 inch of water weekly during the growing season. Water should not stand longer than 20 minutes. In some soil types, surrounding soil may be moist while the root-ball itself is dry. Be sure to occasionally check the root-ball for adequate moisture.
Mulch newly planted trees using an organic mulch 1 to 3 inches deep and 5 to 6 inches in diameter, but keep the mulch at least 2 to 4 inches away from the base of the trunk of the tree. In other words, do not mound mulch up against the trunk. Stake young trees sparingly and briefly when possible. Too tight or prolonged staking results in an overall weaker tree. Remove stakes after one growing season or as soon as tree is sufficiently rooted.