Big brands are waking up to modest fashion

When Ruba Zai uploaded her first video online, she had no idea that her “hijab tutorials” would be an internet hit, watched by hundreds of thousands worldwide.

When Ruba Zai uploaded her first video online, the Netherlands-based Afghan student just wanted to share with other Muslim girls and women how she styled her headscarf. She had no idea that her “hijab tutorials” would be an internet hit, watched by hundreds of thousands worldwide.

The 23-year-old now blogs full time, sharing ideas for how to look trendy yet covered-up with a million Instagram followers. Zai had tapped into a fast-growing market for so-called “modest fashion,” fuelled by young, style-savvy Muslim women from London to Malaysia who have long felt their needs ignored bymainstream designers.

“I just couldn’t relate at all to the clothes you see in the mainstream brands,” she said from her home in Rotterdam. “When we first started talking about our style on social media, there was no interest in the fashion world in this group of people: ‘ They’re just Muslims, why should we target them?’”

Big brands have been waking up to that call, and covered-up chic is a niche that’s slowly making its way into mainstream fashion. From exclusive designers to fast-fashion chains, retailers are trying to court millions of Muslim consumers — especially around the month of Ramadan, which started last week, when many Muslims buy new clothes and dress up. In 2014, U.S. fash- ion house DKNY was one of the first Western brands to launch a Ramadan collection aimed at wealthy Arab shoppers.

Since then several others have followed suit. Dolce&Gabbana has been selling a luxury collection of abayas — long, loose robe- like dresses — and matching headscarves since 2016 in theMiddle East, Paris and London. At the more affordable end of themarket, Spanish chain Mango is also promoting a Ramadan collection of tunics, kaftans and maxi dresses for the second year.

TIM IRELAND — THE ASSOCIATED PRESS A member of staff poses for a picture at the aab boutiq store at Upton Park, in London, Monday May 22, 2017. “Mainstream fashion is now talking about modest fashion as a thing. Ten years ago, if you were a brand coming from a religious background and tried to sell it in department stores, calling it a modest or Muslim brand would be a kiss of death,” said Reina Lewis, a professor at the London College of Fashion who has written two books about the topic. While the majority of those interested in covered-up fashion are young, cosmopolitan Muslim women, “the term ‘modesty’ emerged in the niche market as a useful one because it’s not faith-specific,” Lewis added.