The Oneida Daily Dispatch (Oneida, NY)
Martha Oakes serves generations
Martha Oakes: Trained by founder ‘Papa Tony’ Wojitas, Oakes has served families for 41 years
ONEIDA » Seeing Martha Oakes spreading sauce and mozzarella cheese on a pie or waiting a table at Pepi’s Pizza has become nearly as well-known as the image of their late founder “Papa Tony” Wojitas with a pizza dough covering his head after an ill-fated dough swirling incident.
Oakes is certainly a familiar face at Pepi’s Pizza, withmultiple generations of diners who come fromnear and far to visit her and the restaurant -- this September, she will be starting her 41st year working at the popular Route 5 pizzeria.
She recalled she had moved to Durhamville in 1978 with husband Ed and their family so they could be close to the School for the Deaf in Rome, where their son was a student. Looking for a job, she happened on an ad for an opening at Pepi‘s Pizza, and suddenly her four decades of doughslinging history was born.
Wojitas, who founded Pepi’s Pizza in Oneida in 1960, hired her right away, she said. She even started a full two weeks before current owner Chip Noble -- Papa Tony’s grandson -was born. Oakesworked second shift at first while her children Edwin, Robin and Cindy were in school. But even after they graduated and started families of their own she stayedwith the business. Much of her dedication came from working closely with Wojitas, Oakes said, and the inspiration he gave her.
“I really loved Tony,” Oakes complimented. “I wish I had more bosses like him -- he was just so generous.”
She was shown by Wojitas how he wanted her to wait on
“Tony taught me how tomake pizzas, andI still make themthe same way.”
— Martha Oakes
the tables, and she continues to honor his training to this day. Oakes said she was always very impressed by the wayWojitas went out and greeted his customers, and always made sure they knew they were appreciated there at Pepi‘s.
For the old-timer customers, she is a true beacon to the past of Wojitas, who passed away in 2009. She keeps alive his well-known and muchloved methods … although she admits not being able to hurl a spinning pizza dough into the air over her head like he could.
When customers dive into one of her pizzas, they just might get a taste of the old-time flavorful flare Wojitas put into every one of his creations.
“Tony taught me how to make pizzas, and I still make them the same way,” Oakes said.
After four decades, and having made hundreds of friends thanks to her time with Pepi’s Pizza, Oakes said she has really found her comfort zone there. She finds herself to be a bit more outgoing there than anywhere else. It might be because she knows she is surrounded by her friends there.
“I think I ammore sociable here,” Oakes said. “In other places I amquiet, but here I really get to open up.”
Given her longevity, she has seen former children now bringing in children of their own. Oakes said she is enjoying waiting on new generations of customers. She said one dad who had moved away recently came in from Pennsylvania with his own son and asked if she remembered him. That grown youngster now towered over his father, she said ... Not quite the memory of the tyke from the last time she saw him.
Oakes is now working three days a week at the pizzeria, making pizzas one of those days while serving her customers the other two. It might be time to retire in the near future, but she doesn’t really even want to think about that much now, she admitted. Although she will have more time for family, now also including eight grand- children and a single greatgrandchild, plus her hobbies like gardening and doing puzzles, it will mean a big adjustment.
She has spent two-thirds of her life at Pepi’s, so leaving that job will be quite a change of life, Oakes said. After 40 years, it will be hard for her to give all that up, she intimated.
“I love my customers here … I really do,” she said. “I have met so many people here who I really consider friends.”
“She helped us to build this business,” Wojitas widow Audrey Wojitas said. “She has a lot of following. My husband always said working in a fast food place was more like a stepping stone, but she is still here after all these years. Everywhere I go, people ask me, ‘How‘s Martha?’ I just think it‘s wonderful she is still with us.”
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