The Palm Beach Post

Gnocchi are demanding; these dumplings are not

- By Sara Moulton Special to Washington Post

This recipe deserves star billing. It’s a variation on the Italian potato dumplings known as gnocchi, which are often made with russets combined with flflour, then rolled, shaped and boiled. They’re great, but a lot of work.

However, when you opt for sweet potatoes instead, as I have here, and don’t have to worry about the shaping, the dumplings get considerab­ly easier. Just scoop up spoonfuls of dough and drop them in boiling water. This really cuts down on how long it takes to prepare them.

I n f a c t , you c a n make the dumplings several days ahead of time. Then, about 40 minutes before sitting down to dinner, you pull the dumplings out of the refrigerat­or, saute the spinach and combine everything with the liquids and cheese. Pop it all into a gratin dish and bake for about 20 minutes.

And talk about flflexibil­ity. You’re welcome to swap out the spinach in favor of chard or other greens.

Likewise, you can kiss offff the Gruyere and replace it with cheddar, blue cheese or feta. Want to transform this recipe into a vegetarian dish? Use vegetable broth instead of chicken broth. Bingo. tip of a paring knife several times and place on a baking sheet. Bake (middle rack) until they are very tender, about 1 1/4 hours.

Let them cool completely, then scrape out the potato flesh and put it either through a ricer or a food mill, or puree it in a food processor. Transfer it to a medium bowl; you should have about 1 3/4 cups. Discard the skins.

Preheat the oven to 450 degrees.

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over medium-high heat. Grease the baking dish with a little butter. Lightly flour a work surface.

Add the egg, the 1 1/4 teaspoons salt and the nutmeg to the pureed potato, stirring until smooth. Fold in the 1 1/2 cups flour and stir until barely incorporat­ed.

If the mixture is stiff enough so that an inserted spoon can stand in it, proceed with the next step. If it doesn’t, add a little more flour a few tablespoon­s at a time, stirring just until incorporat­ed, to form a dough that holds its shape.

Use a 3/8-ounce (#100) disher or a level tablespoon to portion the dough into (rough-shaped) balls, placing them on the floured surface as you work. You should end up with about 36 balls.

Add half the balls to the boiling water, reduce the heat to medium and cook the dumplings until they all float, for 2 or 3 minutes. Use a Chinese spider or slotted spoon to transfer the dumplings to the gratin dish. Repeat with the remaining balls.

Melt the 2 tablespoon­s of butter in a large skillet over medium-high heat. When the butter just starts to brown, add half the spinach, stirring until most of the spinach has wilted. Add the remaining spinach and a hefty pinch of salt; cook until all the spinach has wilted and most of the moisture it gave off has evaporated.

Add the garlic and cook, stirring, for 1 minute, then use a slotted spoon to transfer the spinach to the gratin dish.

Combine the heavy cream and broth in a large liquid measuring cup, then pour it over the spinach. Sprinkle the cheeses evenly over the top.

Bake (middle rack) for about 20 minutes, or until the liquid is bubbling around the edges. Serve hot.

 ?? POST PHOTO BY RENEE COMET FOR THE WASHINGTON ?? Sweet Potato Dumplings and Spinach Gratin.
POST PHOTO BY RENEE COMET FOR THE WASHINGTON Sweet Potato Dumplings and Spinach Gratin.

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