Party-perfect pork chops ready for their close-up
Whether I’m planning a holiday feast or a winter dinner party, this dish is one of my favorites. It’s simple, it can be prepped in advance and it does not take too much oven time, a definite consideration when you’re baking multiple dishes.
I often use a boneless center-cut pork loin and cut it into “chops” but the bones do look dramatic, so feel free to use bone-in chops. Brining the pork in a salt and sugar solution with molasses and spices makes themeatmoist and adds flavor. (Tip: Smash the spices by pressing them with a heavy object, such as a castiron pan, until the spice hull cracks.) Avoid over-brining or the meat can become too salty. Brinedmeat stays pink once cooked so don’t be fooled into thinking it is undercooked. For best results, use a meat thermometer and cook the pork chops to 150 degrees.
A nice cooking apple or Bosc pear adds to the visual appeal, as well as the flavor. The fruit caramelizes in the pan and complements the hint ofmolasses in the pork.
Sear-roasting is a trick used in most restaurants and it’s a good one for home cooks, as well. The meat is seared on the stove, then popped into the oven to finish cooking. It prevents the outside from getting overcooked and tough. I usually sear the meat just before my guests arrive, then pop it into the oven about 10 minutes before serving. That way, I can be with my guests, not madly sauteeing.
Molasses-Brined Pork Chops with Caramelized Apples
8 cups water ¼ cupmolasses ½ cup sugar 2 garlic cloves, smashed 1 cup kosher salt (or 8 tablespoons table or sea salt)
1¼ teaspoons black peppercorns, cracked in amortar and pestle 1 cinnamon stick 1½ teaspoons coriander seeds, toasted and smashed 2 whole cloves 4 allspice smashed 1 sprig rosemary 8 boneless trimmed pork chops, about 1½ inches thick berries,
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 large or 3 small Fuji, Gravenstein or Granny Smith apples, cored and cut into ½-inch wedges
1 teaspoon chopped rosemary 1/8 teaspoon cinnamon 1 clove garlic, minced ½ teaspoon kosher salt
1 tablespoon canola oil (for searing pork)
2 tablespoons cider vinegar ¼ cupCalvadosorbrandy 2 cups veal or chicken stock 1 tablespoon molasses 1 teaspoon kosher salt Rosemary sprigs to garnish
Heat oven to 400 degrees.
In a large bowl, combine all the brine ingredients, except the pork. Stir until the sugar and salt are dissolved. Add pork and ensure meat is submerged. Cover bowl with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 90 minutes to 2 hours. Remove pork from the brine and pat dry with paper towels. Set aside.
For the apples: In a large saute pan, melt the butter. Add the apples, rosemary, cinnamon, garlic and salt; cook over medium heat, tossing occasionally until the apples are just tender, 6 to 7minutes. Transfer the apples and all their juices to a medium bowl.
In another large saute pan, heat 1 tablespoon oil over high heat. When the oil is almost smoking, add the pork and sear it on each side until golden, 2 to 3 minutes per side. Transfer to a sheet pan.
Roast the pork for about 10 minutes, until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the center registers 150 degrees. (If you are using bone-in pork chops, it may take 12 to 15 minutes. Note that brined pork looks pink even when done.)
Make the sauce: Pour off any excess fat fromthe pork saute pan. Heat the pan again over medium heat and add the vinegar and brandy. Deglaze the pan by scraping and combining any brown bits. Boil to a syrupy glaze, which will take 1 to 2 minutes. Add stock and reduce by half, about 5 minutes. Season to taste with 1 tablespoonmo- lasses and 1 teaspoon salt.
Serve pork chops with the sauce and sauteed apples on a bed of polenta or mashed potatoes.
Bibby Gignilliat is the founder of Parties That Cook, a San Franciscobased culinary event company; www. PartiesThatCook.com.