It’s Na­tional Pork Month

The Phoenix - - FOOD - By Emily Ryan

On a re­cent sunny Satur­day, Jeremy Dun­phy greeted shop­pers at the Down­ing­town Farm­ers Mar­ket. Be­hind him: an eye-catch­ing sign show­ing a happy pig loung­ing in the grass.

“Our pigs are pas­tured,” de­scribed the co-owner of Pas­ture Song Farm. “Old-time farm­ers say, ‘You fi­nally got smart. That’s the way we used to do it.’”

Dun­phy and Clara Os­borne raise mixed her­itage-breed hogs in South Coven­try.

“There is more fat on our pork. It has more fla­vor,” he said. “It’s the pork the way mil­len­ni­als’ grand­par­ents ate.”

And the color may sur­prise you. “It’s red. It’s not white,” Dun­phy added. “It’s not your par­ents’ other white meat.”

See for your­self. Oc­to­ber’s Na­tional Pork Month.

“One of my hopes is peo­ple start show­ing pork just a lit­tle bit more re­spect,” said Brian Coble of Car­ni­copia Meats in Malvern. He and Alexi Ale­jan­dro of­fer lo­cally sourced, pas­ture-raised, her­itage­breed pork (and more) de­liv­ered to your doorstep.

“You can get the in­ter­est­ing cuts that you’d never see in stores,” he ex­plained. “We re­ally pride our­selves on cus­tom butcher­ing.”

Try a coppa steak, which “is ba­si­cally the Del­monico of the pig,” or bone-in pork belly – “essen­tially pork short ribs.”

“There’s more to pork than just pork chops and ba­con,” said Coble. “We’re ex­cited to share that with cus­tomers.”

He also shared recipes like braised pork brisket.

Din­ing out? Sa­vor the “veg­etable-for­ward” pork Mi­lanese at Main & Vine in Vil­lanova.

“It’s very nos­tal­gic be­cause I grew up eat­ing things like this,” re­called ex­ec­u­tive chef Charles Vogt. “At the same time, it’s dif­fer­ent. We put our own lit­tle twist on it.”

The dish fea­tures cu­cum­ber and heir­loom tomato salad, shaved Parme­san and 12-year aged bal­samic. But the star, of course, is the meat it­self – breaded and pan­fried in grape­seed oil.

“You want to start with that great, beau­ti­ful pork,” he said. “There’s a lot of great pork in the area.”

Bone-in Pork Belly

In­gre­di­ents

2 (3/4- to 1-pound) bone-in pork belly

2 1/2 ta­ble­spoons sweet pa­prika 2 tea­spoons chili power 2 tea­spoons dried mus­tard 1 tea­spoon kosher salt

1/2 tea­spoon black pep­per­corn, ground

1/4 tea­spoon gran­u­lated gar­lic 1/2 tea­spoon chili flakes (op­tional for heat)

1 tea­spoon brown sugar (op­tional for sweet­ness)

PHOTO BY EMILY RYAN

Jeremy Dun­phy started Pas­ture Song Farm 4 years ago.

PHOTO COUR­TESY OF DALLYN PAVEY/DISH PUB­LIC RE­LA­TIONS

Main & Vine puts a fresh spin on pork Mi­lanese.

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