The Phoenix

Corn concoction as main, side dish or as dessert

Corn concoction can work as main, side dish or as dessert

- By Cathy Thomas Have a cooking question? Contact Cathy Thomas at cathythoma­scooks@gmail.com

Enriched with grated cheese and butter, polenta is one of the ultimate Italian-style comfort foods. Throw in something cream-centric, such as mascarpone (Italian-style cream cheese) or crème fraiche (French-style cultured cream), and we’re talking paradise in a spoon.

Polenta is similar to the cornmeal mush served in the American South, but don’t pigeonhole it as gruel. Italian cuisine uses it in oh-so-alluring ways, topping it with delectable sauces or setting it as a counterpoi­nt to rich meat. You can easily turn it into a vegetarian entrée by topping it with roasted vegetables.

Columbus’ sailors carried corn back from their voyages to the New World, reportedly holding a low opinion of the golden nuggets. Today, corn is grown all over Italy and ground into meal. Polenta is central to diets in several regions of northern Italy.

At the Albertsons supermarke­t where I often shop, I buy Bob’s Red Mill Organic Polenta (also labeled corn grits); it’s also sold at natural food stores and some other large supermarke­ts. In a pinch I use standard mediumgrou­nd or coarsely ground yellow cornmeal.

My favorite simple recipe for side-dish polenta is from Ina Garten.

It cooks the polenta in sodiumredu­ced chicken broth and makes the mix creamy-delicious by adding Parmesan, cream fraiche and butter.

Yes, sometimes I turn it into a main course by topping it with Bolognese sauce or covering it with a nice mound of roasted veggies. I also love to use polenta in desserts, such as Lemon Polenta Cake, a luscious, not-too-sweet dish that showcases fresh berries and rosemary syrup.

For another approach, rather than cooking it from scratch, cooked polenta is available in cellophane-wrapped tubes or “chubs.”

Some are plain, others augmented with Hatch chiles, sundried tomatoes or Italian herbs. They can be cut into slices and pan-seared in a little olive oil.

Ina’s Creamy Parmesan Polenta Yield: 6 servings INGREDIENT­S

4 cups sodium-reduced chicken broth

2 teaspoons minced garlic (2 cloves)

1 cup polenta or medium-ground yellow cornmeal

1-2 teaspoons kosher salt 1teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese, plus extra for serving 1⁄4 cup crème fraiche, see cook’s notes

2 tablespoon­s (1⁄4 stick) unsalted butter

Cook’s notes: Crème fraiche is a cultured cream that has a lovely nutty flavor and looks like sour cream. It is sold in small tubs; in my local supermarke­t it is in the refrigerat­ed specialty cheese section. Polenta is best cooked and served immediatel­y, but to reheat the polenta, place the cold mixture in a pot with extra chicken broth or water and reheat slowly over low heat, stirring until smooth.

PROCEDURE

1: Place the chicken broth in a large saucepan. Add the garlic and cook over medium-high heat until it comes to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium-low and very slowly whisk in the cornmeal, whisking constantly to make sure there are no lumps.

2: Switch to a wooden spoon or wooden spatula, add the salt and pepper, and simmer vigorously, stirring almost constantly, for 10minutes, until thick. Be sure to scrape the bottom of the pan thoroughly while you’re stirring. Off the heat, stir in the Parmesan, crème fraiche and butter. Taste for seasonings. Serve hot with extra Parmesan cheese sprinkled on top. Source: Adapted from “Barefoot Contessa: How Easy is That?” by Ina Garten (Clarkson Potter, $32.50)

Lemon Polenta Cake With Fresh Berries and Rosemary Syrup Yield: 8 servings INGREDIENT­S

Vegetable oil for greasing pan, parchment paper

1 cup polenta or medium-grind yellow cornmeal

1⁄2 cup all-purpose flour

1 1⁄2 teaspoons baking powder 1⁄4 teaspoon salt

1 cup sugar

2 eggs

2 egg whites 2tablespoo­ns butter, softened

1⁄4 cup vegetable oil

1⁄2 cup plain yogurt (not Greekstyle)

1 1⁄2 tablespoon­s grated lemon zest (colored part only) 2 tablespoon­s fresh lemon juice 1pint fresh strawberri­es (sliced or halved) or raspberrie­s or blackberri­es, or a combinatio­n Rosemary syrup, cooled and strained, recipe in cook’s notes Sweetened whipped cream

Garnish: sprigs of fresh rosemary and/or mint

Cook’s notes: Cake can be prepared five days in advance, wrapped in plastic and refrigerat­ed. Syrup can be stored airtight in jar in refrigerat­or up to one week.

To make rosemary syrup: Place 3⁄4 cup sugar, 3⁄4 cup dry white wine, 1⁄3 cup water, 3 tablespoon­s roughly chopped fresh rosemary, 1 large bay leaf, 1⁄2 teaspoon crushed black peppercorn­s and 3tablespoo­ns balsamic vinegar in saucepan over high heat. Bring to boil on high heat; reduce heat to medium-low and simmer 10 minutes. Cool and strain. Syrup can be stored airtight in jar in refrigerat­or up to 1week.

PROCEDURE

1: Adjust oven rack to middle position. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Line bottom of 8-inch round cake pan with parchment paper, and grease parchment and sides of pan lightly with vegetable oil.

2: Stir cornmeal, flour, baking powder and salt in bowl with whisk; set aside. In a separate large bowl for the electric mixer, beat sugar, eggs and egg whites in large bowl until smooth. Beat in butter, oil, yogurt, lemon zest and juice until creamy. Fold in dry ingredient­s just until combined; do not overmix. Pour batter into prepared pan and smooth top with spatula.

3: Bake 35-40minutes or until toothpick inserted in center comes out clean. Cool 15 minutes on wire rack. Invert on plate and peel off paper; cool.

4: Meanwhile, prepare rosemary syrup (see cook’s notes). Cool syrup.

5: Cut cake into 8 wedges and place on dessert plates. Scatter berries around cake and drizzle 1-2tablespoo­ns rosemary syrup over each serving. Place dollop of whipped cream on cake. Garnish with rosemary sprig and/or mint.

Fraker’s Pan-Seared Polenta With Breakfast Hash and Sunny-Side-Up Eggs

Yield: 4 servings

INGREDIENT­S

1(1pound) tube-style (chub) hatch pepper polenta, or original, Italian herb or sun-dried tomato flavored tube-style polenta 1tablespoo­n extra-virgin olive oil

Hash: 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

1tablespoo­n unsalted butter

1⁄2 sweet onion, cut into 1⁄4-inch dice

1⁄2 pound sausage, beer brats preferred, casings removed and crumbled

1⁄2 pound ground beef, 80/20 preferred (80% lean, 20% fat) 1⁄2 pound Dutch Yellow potatoes, cut into 1⁄4-inch dice

1⁄4 cup (1⁄4-inch) diced green bell pepper

1⁄4 cup (1⁄4-inch diced) red bell pepper

1⁄4 cup (1⁄4-inch diced) yellow bell pepper 1tablespoo­n Worcesters­hire sauce 1 tablespoon smoked ground paprika

Eggs: 2tablespoo­ns extra-virgin

olive oil 8 large eggs

PROCEDURE

1: Cut polenta tube into eight 1⁄2-inch-thick slices. In a large skillet, heat 1 tablespoon oil on medium-high heat. Add polenta in a single layer (you may need to do this in two batches). Sear until you get a nice golden brown on one side, then flip them and repeat. Remove from the pan and set aside.

2: To the same skillet, heat 1tablespoo­n of oil and butter. Stir in onion and cook until softened, about 2 minutes. Add sausage and ground beef, breaking it up as it cooks completely, about 3-4 minutes. Add peppers, Worcesters­hire and paprika. Cook until potatoes are tender, about 3-4 minutes, tossing occasional­ly. Set aside.

3: In a large nonstick skillet, heat 2tablespoo­ns extra virgin olive oil on high heat until oil starts to shimmer. Crack an egg into a small bowl and carefully pour into the pan. Repeat for another egg and reduce the heat to low. Cook

2 eggs at a time. When the edges of the egg white begin to set, use a fork to separate the whites slightly closest to the yolk. This will help the egg whites set evenly. When the eggs are cooked, remove them from the pan and repeat for the remaining eggs.

4: To assemble, place 2polenta slices on a plate. Top with some hash and top the hash with

2 fried eggs. Repeat with remaining ingredient­s, making three more servings. When you cut through the egg, the runny yolk creates a nice silky sauce.

Source: Tom Fraker, corporate executive chef and test kitchen manager, Melissa’s Produce

 ??  ??
 ?? PHOTOS BY CATHY THOMAS ?? Fresh berries and rosemary syrup add their flavors to the tang of not-too-sweet lemon polenta cake.
PHOTOS BY CATHY THOMAS Fresh berries and rosemary syrup add their flavors to the tang of not-too-sweet lemon polenta cake.
 ??  ?? Ina Garten makes this polenta creamy and cheesy.
Ina Garten makes this polenta creamy and cheesy.

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