The Phoenix

Sheet pan simplicity

WITH ONE DISH AND FAST PREP, THE METHOD RENDERS JUICY MEATS AND CARAMELIZE­D VEGGIES

- By Cathy Thomas Contact Cathy Thomas at cathythoma­scooks@gmail.com

When Molly Gilbert’s cookbook “Sheet Pan Suppers” (Workman, $15.95) was published in 2015, I fell in love with her onedish meals, concoction­s created on a single rimmed baking sheet. Of course, slow cookers can be one-pot culinary heroes, but I appreciate that sheet pan cookery creates dishes that aren’t slow-cooker soupy.

Roasting, broiling or baking on a rimmed baking sheet produces irresistib­le textures that work hand-in-hand with an upturn in flavor. Meats are juicy and tender, vegetables are caramelize­d and slightly sweetened, and spuds are crisp and nicely browned. It’s an easy, hands-off method.

The right pan is important. I own four of them. They “live” in the lower of my two ovens and are used almost daily for a variety of culinary chores. Often known as “half sheets” or “rimmed baking sheets,” sheet pans are sturdy, rectangula­r pans with a 1-inch lip around the sides. Those shallow sides let hot air from the oven circulate and crisp the foods’ exteriors. Although restaurant pans can be ginormous, home size is usually 13 by 18 inches.

I agree with Gilbert that those without a nonstick coating work the best. For easier cleanup, the pan can be lined with parchment paper, but it’s not mandatory.

An accurate oven temperatur­e ensures the best results. Your oven may be a sneak. It may take a long time to preheat, especially due to high temperatur­es generally required for sheet pan feasts. It may also lie about how hot it is. Buy an inexpensiv­e oven thermomete­r and put it inside; set your oven to 350 degrees and have a look at the thermomete­r to see how hot it is. Adjust your settings to compensate if there is a discrepanc­y.

I’ve chosen three recipes for sheet pan dinners that we enjoy. They are dishes that get rave reviews from kids and adults alike. So, simplify dinnertime with dishes that most people will love, especially the cook.

Fajita Flank Steak With Peppers and Onions

This is scrumptiou­s served as a filling in warm tortillas with optional garnishes, such as sliced avocado and cotija cheese. Before it makes its way atop a sheet pan, the meat is marinated for several hours in a garlicky, lime-scented mixture. Some of that tasty marinade is reserved (not used for marinating meat) and used to blanket the colorful, sliced bell peppers and onions before they are roasted. An instant-read thermomete­r is a handy tool to have on hand; you will want to broil the steak just long enough to reach 125 degrees for rare or 135 degrees for medium-rare.

Yield: 4-6 servings

INGREDIENT­S

21⁄2 pounds flank steak 4cloves garlic, minced

1⁄4 cup plus

2 tablespoon­s extravirgi­n olive oil 3tablespoo­ns Worcesters­hire sauce

1⁄4 cup fresh lime juice (from 2-4 limes)

1 tablespoon ground cumin 1tablespoo­n chili powder 1 tablespoon sugar

1⁄4 teaspoon dried red pepper flakes

1 teaspoon kosher salt

Olive oil cooking spray and aluminum foil

4 bell peppers (any color), stemmed, seeded, thinly sliced

1 yellow onion, thinly sliced

For serving: 8-12 small (6-inch) tortillas (flour or corn)

Garnishes: 1⁄4 cup chopped fresh cilantro leaves, sour cream, salsa, sliced avocado and crumbled (or grated) cotija cheese or queso fresco

PROCEDURE

1: Place flank steak in a large,

zipper-style bag or shallow glass baking dish. In a small bowl, whisk together garlic, olive oil, Worcesters­hire sauce, lime juice, cumin, chili powder, sugar, pepper flakes and salt. Reserve 1⁄4 cup of marinade for the vegetables and pour the rest over steak. Seal bag or covered dish and refrigerat­e for 2-12 hours.

2: When you are ready to cook, preheat oven to 450 degrees with one rack about 4 inches from the broiler, another rack in the center position and another in the bottom position. Line a sheet pan with aluminum foil and mist it with cooking spray.

3: Toss peppers and onion with reserved 1⁄4 cup marinade in a large bowl and spread them evenly on prepared pan. Roast on center rack until softened and starting to brown, 10-15 minutes. Remove from oven and turn the oven to broil.

4: Wrap a stack of tortillas in aluminum foil and set it aside.

5: Push peppers and onion to perimeter of the pan. Remove steak from marinade, allow any excess liquid to drip off the meat and place it in center of pan surrounded with vegetables (discard marinade). Place pan on top rack and broil the steak, flipping it once, until it begins to char on the outside and an instant-read thermomete­r inserted into the thickest part of the meat registers 125 degrees for rare or 135 degrees for medium rare, about 4-5 minutes per side.

6: While the steak cooks, place the foil-wrapped tortillas on the bottom rack to warm through. Once the steak finishes cooking, remove pan from oven and turn oven off. Leave tortillas in oven to continue warming while the steak rests.

7: Allow steak to rest, loosely covered with foil, for 10minutes

Yield: 4 servings

before slicing it thinly against the grain. Sprinkle with cilantro. Serve the steak warm with peppers, onions and warm tortillas. Pass the salsa, sour cream, avocado and cheese at the table.

Turkey Sausage With Acorn Squash and Red Onions

INGREDIENT­S

1 medium-large acorn squash, halved, seeded, cut crosswise into 1⁄4-inch thick slices 1 medium-large red onion, halved top to bottom, cut into 1⁄2-inch crosswise slices or wedges

3 tablespoon­s extra-virgin olive oil Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

5 sweet turkey Italian sausages, 15-16 ounces

1⁄2 cup grated Parmesan cheese or Asiago cheese

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh sage leaves

1⁄4 cup dried cranberrie­s or cherries, coarsely chopped

PROCEDURE

1: Adjust oven rack to middle position. If possible in your oven, arrange a second rack about 8 inches from the broiler element. Preheat oven to 475 degrees.

2: On rimmed baking sheet, toss squash and onion with oil. Spread out into single layer (most important for squash to be flat on the pan, not so much for the onions). Season with salt and pepper. Add sausages. Place on center rack in preheated oven. Roast about 17-19minutes or until squash is tender.

3: Remove from oven. Adjust oven rack to 8inches below broiler element, if you didn’t do so in Step 1. Turn on broiler. Sprinkle cheese and sage over vegetables and place pan on rack under broiler. Broil until cheese is melted and

bubbling, about 3-4 minutes. Sprinkle cranberrie­s or cherries on top.

Chicken Thighs With Tomatoes, Potatoes, Olives and Feta

Yield: 4 servings

INGREDIENT­S

8 bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs; see cook’s notes 3tablespoo­ns extra-virgin olive oil

2 1⁄2 cups grape tomatoes

1⁄2 cup pitted green olives, such as Castelvetr­ano

12 Baby Dutch Yellow potatoes

5 medium shallots, halved lengthwise

3 sprigs fresh thyme

Salt (or seasoned salt) and freshly ground black pepper to taste

1⁄3 cup crumbled feta cheese About 8fresh mint leaves, torn into small pieces

Cook’s notes: I like to trim away excess chicken skin that hangs over the side of the meat on some thighs and discard it. I use kitchen scissors to make quick work of it.

PROCEDURE

1: Adjust oven rack to middle position. Preheat oven to 375degrees. 2: In large bowl, combine chicken, oil, grape tomatoes, olives, potatoes, shallots and thyme. Add salt (or seasoned salt) and pepper. Toss the mix to coat with oil. Place on rimmed baking sheet, arranging chicken skin-side up. Roast about 45minutes or until chicken registers 165degrees in thickest part on an instant read thermomete­r (without touching bone).

3: Transfer to dinner plates and top with the feta and mint.

Source: “Sheet Pan Suppers” by Molly Gilbert (Workman, $15.95)

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 ?? PHOTOS BY CATHY THOMAS ?? First the peppers and onions are cooked in the sheet pan, then marinated flank steak is added.
PHOTOS BY CATHY THOMAS First the peppers and onions are cooked in the sheet pan, then marinated flank steak is added.
 ??  ?? The flavors of spices and cheese blend with turkey sausage, acorn squash and red onion in this quick-to-make dish.
The flavors of spices and cheese blend with turkey sausage, acorn squash and red onion in this quick-to-make dish.
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Chicken thighs are one of the great bargains at a market’s meat counter.
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