CAR DOCTOR Q&A
Q. I own a 2003 Toyota Corolla. It was kept in the garage until 2018 but is now parked on the street the past four years. We live a block from the ocean and the paint on the roof of the car is starting to wear through. I’m getting conflicting advice on how to preserve the paint job. The car runs great, and I’m retired so I use it just to get around but I’m willing to do what it takes to stop/slowdown this process, whether I do it myself or bring it to a professional. Any thoughts?
A. The primer under the paint is likely oxidized due to UV sunlight causing the color and clear coat to lift. This condition happens on the horizontal surfaces that get the most light. The professional way to fix it is to sand the surface, reprime it and repaint it. So, to get professional results, a professional body shop is needed. I have seen some people scuff up the paint with an abrasive pad, then wet sand and polish what is left of the paint. On the cars that I have seen this technique performed, from 30 feet way looks okay.
Q. I have a 2018 Subaru Outback with a 3.6L engine with 30,200 miles on it. At about 26,900 miles the low oil light came on (approximately 3000 miles since the oil was last changed). I had the oil changed at that time (by the dealer) and have driven another 3100 miles when the low oil light came on once again — both times I checked the oil level, and it was low by about one quart. The vehicle has been serviced (oil changes) at the dealer since it was new. I mentioned this to the dealer on the first incident (thought they possibly did not put the correct amount of oil in) so the dealer suggested I come back at 1200 miles to check the oil level — it was ok — now I am concerned that this is going to be the norm (consumes one quart of oil every 3000 +/miles) I certainly didn’t expect this with a new car. So the question is, with your experience through the years, is this common with the 3.6L engine in Subaru’s?
A. Having an engine that consumes one quart of oil in 3000 miles is certainly reasonable, but is it normal for a Subaru? Many owners of Subaru models comment about some oil use. I years past Subaru considered one quart of oil used in 2000 miles normal. Perhaps something to look at, with the four-cylinder engine Subaru recommends 0W-20 fully synthetic oil, with the six-cylinder engine the recommended oil is 5W-30 oil. If the dealer out of habit (the four-cylinder engine is more common) is using the 0W-20 oil it could be burned slightly faster during normal combustion. Also, the four cylinder engine uses 4.8 quarts and the six cylinder engine 6.5 quarts. If the technician is not paying attention, you could be leaving the dealership with less than the required fill of oil.
Q. I have been experiencing a vibration on my 2012 Toyota Highlander since I purchased it used about 2 years ago. The vibration has started to get just a bit worse and now there is a slight that changes when I take a turn. About a year ago the car was in for service and the tires were rotated and the vibration felt better. Now I just had the oil changed and the tires rotated again the vibration and noise are terrible. Do you know of any problems with the 2012 model that I can address with my dealer?
A. I checked AllData, the technical database that I use and didn’t find any bulletins that would address a vibration. Since the vibration changed when the tires were rotated, I would suspect the problem is still related to the tires/wheels. The simplest solution is to see if the dealer as a test can swap a set of wheels and tires from another vehicle. If the vibration and noise improve the issue is related to the tires. Then at that point a technician will need to carefully inspect each tire and wheel for a problem.
Q. I have a Ford Explorer that is making a rattling sound that seems to be coming from under the car of the driver’s side. It has been in for service two times in the past month and both times the shop jacked up the car and looked around but didn’t see anything. It is just a noise not a vibration, but it does seem to be getting worse. Any idea what I should do?
A. There are plenty is parts that can wear on your vehicle from the coil spring insulators, sway bar links, steering gear intermediate shaft and the lower balljoints. Some of these parts are easy to check, others require a trained eye to spot a problem. The best method to check for a problem after a road test is to put the vehicle on a drive-on style lift. This way all the pressure and weight of the vehicle stay on the tires and suspension, just as it would driving down the road. On a frame contact lift, the suspension hangs and can mask worn parts.
Q. I consider myself a pretty competent backyard mechanic, but I have a problem that I can’ seem to find. I have a Chevy truck and there is an oil leak and I have washed down the engine to look for the leak but can’t seem to pinpoint it. I have checked the oil sender, valve covers and intake manifold and can’t seem to find the source of the leak. It is most certainly engine oil and not power steering or transmission fluid. Do you have any suggestions?
A. In a shop you could add a dye to the oil and then run the engine a bit and shot off the lights and using an ultraviolet light look for traces of dye. Back years ago, before these time savings gadgets we would clean and dry the engine and sprinkle talcum powder (foot powder seems to work best and I don’t know why) around the suspected area. Then let the engine run and if there is a leak, you can easily trace it in the powder.