The Register Citizen (Torrington, CT)
Fill the Grill
Recipes for grilled corn with sesame soy butter baste, spice-grilled pineapple
Haven’t you noticed the days are getting longer? But, the weather hasn’t been particularly spring-like to go along with this time of year. Until now. As I write this column, I can say spring, or perhaps I should say summer, is finally in the air. If you are like me, you are probably looking forward to kicking off BBQ season.
Memorial Day weekend marks the beginning of grilling season and the unofficial start of summer for most of us, and that means it’s time to get fired up for the smoky flavor of food cooked outdoors.
A gourmet meal prepared in your backyard or on your deck is still an affordable luxury.
Do you ever wonder what the difference is between a dry rub and a wet rub? When do you use a spice mix or a marinade? How long should you marinate your favorite meat or seafood? What’s the best way to baste or glaze? When should you apply the barbecue sauce? What do fire masters in other countries serve with grilled fare? How do the pros use rubs, marinades and sauces to make championship barbecue every time?
If so, “Barbecue, Sauces, Rubs, and Marinades — Bastes, Butters, and Glazes, Too” by Steven Raichlen (© 2017, Workman Publishing, $17.95) demystifies the art of BBQ.
I was impressed how Raichlen, a James Beard and IACP Award-winning author, PBS star and Barbecue Hall of Famer, includes something for all culinary skill levels: basic sauces and seasonings for the neophyte; professional preparations for the expert; classic rubs and barbecue sauces for the traditionalist; cutting-edge flavor combinations for the adventurer; down-home, common-sense seasonings for the basic barbecue guy or gal; and exotic preparations for the culinary globe-trotter.
I found his encyclopedic approach to every seasoning and condiment one could possibly need very helpful. A rundown of the basic definitions of each type of sauce and seasoning helps determine the best time to use each. Raichlen also includes a detailed inventory of essential grilling gear and techniques. The sidebars detailed everything from how to customize a barbecue rub and maximize its performance, to guidelines for how to build a better barbecue sauce, to an overview of spices and how to use them, to a summary of marinating times, to instructions for how to use an injector. This book will assist you in delivering irresistible smoked and grilled masterpieces every time.
I’ve already marked which of the over 200 recipes I will be preparing with my 84-year-old dad this summer. One thing the snowbird looks forward to each year when he returns north is firing up the grill. Dad likes spice, so I know he will enjoy the chile-fired rubs. I will also introduce him to the lemony marinades, buttery bastes and flavorful sauces. Perhaps Dad will be daring and would like to explore the recipes for brines, cures, glazes, salsas, relishes and chutneys.
Check out these recipes I will be trying this summer. For the recipe for Singapore pork saté, visit bit. ly/2qAnaje.
GRILLED CORN WITH SESAME SOY BUTTER BASTE
12-inch bamboo skewers (optional) 4 ears of sweet corn Sesame Soy Butter Baste (recipe below) 3 tablespoons black or toasted sesame seeds
Set up your grill for direct grilling and preheat to high. Husk the corn, stripping the husks back as though you were peeling a banana, leaving them attached at the base. Tie the husks back below the corn to make a handle, using a strip of husk or a string. (Alternatively, strip off the husks altogether and impale the grilled corn on wooden skewers.)
Lightly brush the ears of corn with the butter baste. Grill the corn until nicely browned on all sides, 2 to 3 minutes per side, 8 to 12 minutes in all, rotating the ears so they grill evenly. Position the corn so that the tied husks hang over the edge of the grill or away from the hot coals, or slide a folded sheet of aluminum foil under them so they won’t burn.
Continue to baste the corn on all sides with the butter as it grills. Transfer the corn to a platter. Sprinkle with the black sesame seeds and serve.
The author writes: “I first tasted this savory baste at a grilled fish house in Jakarta. It’s one of those preparations that transcend national borders, offering the richness of butter, the salty tang of soy sauce, nutty sesame, plus the irresistible aroma of garlic. Seldom do so few ingredients pack such a wallop of flavor.”
SESAME SOY BUTTER BASTE
8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter 2 tablespoons toasted sesame seeds 2 cloves garlic, peeled and
Melt the butter in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the sesame seeds, garlic and scallions and cook until the garlic and scallions are aromatic but not brown, 3 minutes.
Stir in the soy sauce and pepper. Simmer for 2 minutes. (This is so quick and easy to prepare, there’s no reason not to make it right before using. However, you can make it in advance. If storing, transfer to a jar, cover, cool to room temperature, and refrigerate. The baste will keep for at least 1 week.) Makes ¾ cup for 2 to 3 pounds of seafood, poultry, meat or vegetables.
Brush this baste on hot-off-the grill chicken, pork, seafood, vegetables or tofu. Serve any extra baste as a sauce.
The author writes: “Pineapple was the first fruit I ever grilled and it remains a Raichlen family favorite. The key is to grill over a hot fire so you caramelize the sugar while leaving the fruit raw and juicy in the center. Mezcal is a tequila-like spirit made with fire-roasted agave cactus hearts. This gives it a smoky flavor — think of it as Mexican liquid smoke.”
SPICE-GRILLED PINEAPPLE WITH SMOKY WHIPPED CREAM
Spiced Smoked Whipped Cream 1 cup heavy (whipping) cream 2 tablespoons Dessert Rub (recipe below) 2 tablespoons mezcal or ¼ teaspoon liquid smoke Pineapple 1 cup minus 2 tablespoons Dessert Rub 1 juicy, ripe pineapple, peeled and cut into ½-inch-thick slices (core it or not, your choice) ½ cup coconut milk (use a Thai or Latino brand) Ground cinnamon or freshly grated nutmeg, for garnish
To make the whipped cream, place the cream and dessert rub in a chilled metal bowl. Beat to soft peaks with an electric mixer. Add the mezcal or liquid smoke and continue beating to firm peaks. Keep chilled.
Set up a grill for direct grilling and preheat to high. Brush and oil the grill grate. Place the dessert rub in a shallow bowl next to the grill. Brush each pineapple slice on both sides with coconut milk, then completely dredge it in the rub, shaking off any excess.
Arrange the pineapple slices over the hot fire and grill until darkly browned (the sugar should start to caramelize) on both sides, 2 minutes per side. Transfer to a platter or plates. Top each slice with a dollop of the whipped cream and shake a little ground cinnamon or grate some nutmeg on top. Makes 4-8 servings. 1 cup turbinado sugar, such as Sugar in the Raw 2 teaspoons ground cinnamon ¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg ¼ teaspoon ground allspice ¼ teaspoon ground cloves
Place the sugar in a bowl and whisk in the cinnamon, nutmeg, allspice and cloves. Transfer to a jar, cover and store away from heat and light. This rub will keep for several weeks. Makes 1 cup.
Try this: brush any sliced juicy fruit with melted butter or coconut milk, then crust it generously with dessert rub. Grill over a hot fire. Use the rub on grilled half lemons, limes, oranges and grapefruit to make an outrageous sangria. Sprinkle on slices of buttered pound cake and grill to make dessert toast.
Send us your requests
Which restaurant recipes or other recipes would you like to have? Which food products are you having difficulty finding? Do you have cooking questions? Send them to me. Contact Stephen Fries, professor and coordinator of the Hospitality Management Programs at Gateway Community College, at gw-stephen. fries@g wcc.com mnet. edu or Dept. FC, Gateway Community College, 20 Church St., New Haven 06510. Include your full name, address and phone number. Due to volume, I might not be able to publish every request. For more, go to stephenfries. com.