The Register Citizen (Torrington, CT)
Fried green tomatoes go upscale in Asheville, N.C.
Known for its resorts, Asheville, N.C. making a name for itself with its upscale downhome cooking
Steeped both in importance in the history of Asheville and upon the western facing slope of Sunset Mountain, the Omni Grove Park Inn, 290 Macon Ave., Asheville, N.C. http://bit.ly/2iXoY6e has to be one of the most fascinating and hospitable resorts in the world, located minutes from downtown Asheville.
The resort is home to one of the largest arts and crafts collections in the country and to two of only three known Roycroft grandfather clocks appraised at around $1 million apiece.
The 43,000-square-foot subterranean spa is unrivaled in both composition and beauty. It features cavernous rock walls, arches, and tunnels, with numerous water features throughout the facility. Make your appointments way in advance for treatments that often incorporate indigenous elements.
Framed by the splendor of the Blue Ridge Mountains, the historic Grove Park Inn Golf Club celebrates the spirit of mountain golfing. It is also among the top 10 courses 100 years or older, though it certainly doesn’t look its age, according to Golf Digest. It has been recognized by Golfweek as one of the “Best Resort Courses.”
The inn focuses on local ingredients and chef-driven menus in its four signature restaurants, each offering panoramic views of the Blue Ridge Mountains. My first dining experience was at Vue 1913, offering a blend of American and French cooking highlighted by a selection of wine from a French cellar the resort has cultivated over the years. A fan of sweet potatoes, I savored the seasonal soup of sweet potato and bacon lardon with orange segments — the flavors perfectly orchestrated. Crooked Creek grits, creole sofrito, rosemary, Highland Ale and chevre expertly blended to make a creamy base for the succulent North Carolina shrimp, my first course. The fresh North Carolina fish that evening was amberjack, served with a herbescent tomato cream, savory toasted corn bread and zucchini ribbon. My amazing, sweet ending was lemon cheesecake accompanied with a buttermilk semifredo, blueberry compote and lemon madeleine. Almost any wine on the list can be “glassable” (their term for by-the-glass).
The Art of Breakfast, as it is called, is served in Blue Ridge. The farm-to-table artisanal buffet redefined what I imagined a breakfast buffet could be. Beautifully staged stations were spread out spaciously; yogurt bar and fresh juice bars, doughnut buffet, gluten-free station, biscuit bar with compound butters, jams and local honey, bagel and omelet station and salsa bar, and my favorite, a smoked salmon station with the traditional accompaniments. Of course, breakfast pastries galore.
Sunset Terrace is the iconic spot for dinner in Asheville for hotel guests and locals. Open seasonally, for alfresco dining, the sunset views of the mountains and downtown are picture perfect. So too, was the starter to dinner; Terrace Tomato and Mozzarella; perfectly fried green tomatoes sandwiching fresh mozzarella and served with arugula, cherry tomatoes and lemon grass vinaigrette. The main course, Sunburst Trout, a pan-seared Carolina trout, is served with sautéed farmers market vegetables, cauliflower risotto and beet chimichurri. The individual strawberry rhubarb pie was light and flaky with the perfect balance of sweet and tart. It is topped with toasted honey meringue and strawberry ice cream.
Edison, Craft Ales + Kitchen (named for the frequent visits from Thomas Edison) is the resort’s innovative bar and restaurant. It celebrates North Carolina craft beer and small batch bourbons and showcases local farms and purveyors.
Other food and beverage outlets include the Spa Café, Sunset Cocktail Terrace, Cabana Bar & Grill, The Great Hall Bar, President’s Lounge, Elaine’s Dueling Piano Bar, and The Marketplace.
I had the pleasure to meet and interview Executive Chef Josh Thompsen, who was pleased to share his recipe shown below for heirloom tomato salad, compressed watermelon, with basil almond hummus. Check out the interview here: http:// bit.ly/2mPxUMH.
See the 25th National Gingerbread House Competition, at the Grove Park Inn, the largest and most notable competition of its kind in the U.S. on display from Nov. 26 to Jan. 4 and compete for $25,000 in cash prizes.
I spent an afternoon on an Asheville Food Tour www.ashevillefoodtours.com where we sampled food and drink at several Asheville favorites.
It was exciting to dine at the original Tupelo Honey Café www.tupelohoneycafe.com since I have had their cookbook for many years. Their fried green tomatoes with basil, goat cheese grits and roasted red pepper coulis is a creative take on this southern standard. The lavender limeade fizz is a refreshing drink after the rich entrée.
Always on the search for the town’s best java, and bakeries, I was led to several places by local foodies, including Debby Maugans, co-author of Farmer & Chef Asheville. The book is a “food tour” of Asheville with recipes from chefs, farmers and food producers. She is proud of the city’s bustling food community. I had the opportunity to interview this local food celebrity, see http:// bit.ly/2An9oIw.
A must ... Vortex Doughnuts and Coffee vortexdoughnuts.com. The blackberry cake and the apple cream cheese doughnuts were worth every calorie.
I had the best raspberry jelly and Boston cream doughnuts I have ever eaten at Geraldine’s Bakery www.geraldinesbakeryavl.com Not into sweets? The savory croissants are light and flaky.
The Well-Bred Bakery & Café www.wellbredbakery.com was voted best bakery in western North Carolina. The tomato, feta and roasted pepper crustless quiche made for a perfect breakfast along with a cup of locally roasted coffee. The display of luscious pastries and gourmet food is inviting; making your decision will be your biggest problem. There are vegan and gluten-free options, too.
Upon arrival in Asheville, make a reservation at Curate www.curatetapasbar.com. Owner and Chef Katie Button was named one of Food & Wine magazine’s best new chefs. Her Spanish tapas menu at Curate celebrate flavors of the cuisine. The fried eggplant with honey and rosemary is an innovative combination of ingredients. The rosemary bridges the savory bite of the eggplant with the sweetness of honey. The Ensaladilla Rusa, a classic Spanish potato salad with carrot, hardboiled egg, Spanish bonito tuna, piquillo peppers, and peas is not your grandmother’s potato salad.
When it comes to barbecue, Asheville has plenty, including 12 Bones www.12bones.com Luella’s www.luellasbbq.com and Buxton Hall BBQ www.buxtonhall.com I enjoyed these and can write an entire column in time for outdoor cooking season.
When locals Ron and Lynn Carlson, owners of The 1900 Inn on Montford, www.innonmontford.com, one of the premiere Asheville Bed and Breakfasts, say you must try a restaurant, and they want to go along with you too, there was no way to say no. Under a half hour’s drive to Marshall, N.C., is Star Diner, 115 North Main St., 828649-9900. To begin the dining adventure was the spiced pecan crusted goat cheese spinach salad with red wine figs and Annie’s focaccia crostini. The Southern Fried Chicken Saltimbocca (Springer Mountain all-natural chicken breast, prosciutto, sage, provolone with Marsala wine sauce) is not your run-of-the-mill fried chicken. The southern standard was taken up several notches. For dessert the best chocolate pot de crème I have ever encountered. Do not miss this place.
No visit to Asheville is complete without a stop at French Broad Chocolate Lounge, www.frenchbroadchocolates.com. All of the chocolate used in their desserts are made at their chocolate factory in Ashville. The liquid truffle sipping chocolate is heavenly.
Heirloom Tomato Salad Compressed Watermelon, Basil, Almond Hummus
Basil oil
½ cup packed whole basil leaves ¼ cup olive oil
Bring a medium pot of salted water to a boil. Prepare an ice bath. Add the whole basil leaves to the boiling water and cook for 10 seconds. Remove with a slotted spoon and immediately transfer to the ice bath. Let the basil cool for a few minutes, then remove and pat dry. Transfer to a blender. Add olive oil and process until smooth. Transfer to a bowl and set aside.
Compressed watermelon
1/2 watermelon, sliced 1 inch, seeds removed
Place watermelon into vacuum bag. Place vacuum bag into vacuum sealer and put on full, 100% vacuum on the fruit. Better to let it sit in the bag for 2 hours. Then remove from the bag and cut into desired pieces. Reserve chilled.
The compressed melon will remain compressed for a maximum of two days. After two days, juices will start to expel from the fruit, surrounding the fruit in the vacuum pouch. The fruit is usable, but less desirable.
Hummus
½ cup whole raw almonds
¾ cup olive oil, divided, plus extra
for roasting the garlic and plating 1 clove garlic
2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons
lemon juice
½ teaspoon kosher salt, plus more
for seasoning the tomatoes Pinch Aleppo pepper
*Aleppo chili pepper comes from southern Turkey, near the Syrian town of Aleppo, which is considered one of the culinary meccas of the Mediterranean. It has a moderate heat level with some fruitiness and mild, cuminlike undertones, with a hint of vinegar, salty taste.
Place the almonds in a bowl and cover with water. Soak overnight.
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Place the garlic on a square of foil. Drizzle with a little olive oil. Wrap the garlic in the foil and roast until soft and fragrant, about 20 minutes. Put in a blender or food processor to purée the almonds, roasted garlic, remaining ½ cup olive oil, lemon juice, salt, and aleppo pepper. If the hummus seems too thick, add 1 tablespoon of cold water at a time and process until you have the desired consistency.
Tomato
3 heirloom tomatoes, cut into wedges * Most importantly with any good tomato dish, ripeness is the key to success. 2 tablespoons fresh basil, torn ¼ cup olive oil
In a large bowl, toss the tomatoes with the chopped basil leaves and a little olive oil. Season with salt and pepper.
Assembly
2 radishes, shaved thin
Make pool of the hummus on the plate. Arrange the seasoned tomatoes and watermelon over the hummus and garnish with basil oil and shaved radish around the plate. Serves 4.
Culinary calendar
Wine101: Holiday Bubbles,
Nov. 22, 6:30 to 8 p.m., Wine 101, 1220 Whitney Ave., Hamden. 475-202-6657. $25 includes tasting, class, cheese and crackers and a
“homework” bottle. Must be 21+ to attend. Tickets at http://bit.ly/2hXc70z. ⏩ Wine101: Blind Wine Tasting, Nov. 30, 6:30 to 8 p.m., Wine 101, 1220 Whitney Ave., Hamden. 475-202-6657. $20 includes tasting, class, cheese and crackers and a “homework” bottle. Must be 21+ to attend. Tickets at http://bit.ly/2jt45A0.
Consiglio’s Murder Mystery
⏩ Dinner — “Give … Til it
Hurts!” Dec. 1 or Dec. 15, doors at 6 p.m., dinner and show at 7, Consiglio’s Restaurant, 165 Wooster St., New Haven, reservations at 203-865-4489, $55 includes dinner and show (beverages, tax and gratuity not included). An interactive comedy show that goes on as you enjoy a three-course dinner. http://bit.ly/2cyB02Y
“Chefs of Our Kitchen” Reception ⏩ and Dinner: Dec. 6, 6 p.m., Gateway Community College, 20 Church St. (parking validated for the Temple Street Garage; bring ticket), 203-285-2617, $70. Gateway Community College Foundation welcomes Chef John Barricelli owner of SoNo Baking Co. Bakery & Cafe in Norwalk. Enjoy a wine and hors d’oeuvres reception and dinner while watching the chef demonstrate three recipes from his book, The SoNo Baking Company Cookbook: The Best Sweet and Savory Recipes for Every Occasion. Guests will receive a signed copy of the book. Recipes demonstrated will be prepared and served by Gateway Culinary Arts and Hospitality Management students. Tickets at http://bit.ly/2j24HH9. Bourbons – Food – Cigars
⏩ and Fire: Dec. 7, 6:30-9:30pm. Guilford Mooring, 505 Whitfield St., Guilford. 203.458.2921 www.guilfordmooring.com $75 per person, not including tax & tip. A donation of $5 from each ticket sale will benefit the Make a Wish Foundation.