The Register Citizen (Torrington, CT)

Ice cream a treat for elite to all-American indulgence

Ice cream evolved from treat for elite to all-American indulgence

- STEPHEN FRIES What chef would you like me to interview? Which restaurant recipes or other recipes would you like to have? Which food products are you having difficulty finding? Do you have cooking questions? Send them to me: Stephen Fries, professor and c

The sweetest month of the year is coming up: July is National Ice Cream Month.

In 1984, President Ronald Reagan designated July as National Ice Cream Month and the third Sunday of the month as National Ice Cream Day. He recognized ice cream as a fun and nutritious food enjoyed by 90 percent of the nation’s population.

In the proclamati­on, Reagan called for all people of the United States to observe these events with “appropriat­e ceremonies and activities.” To pay homage to this food celebratio­n, here are fun facts and, of course, a couple of recipes.

Did you know?

“Rocky Road” ice cream was created after the Wall Street Crash of 1929 to give people something to be happy about during the “rocky” times of the Great Depression.

Hawaiian Punch was created in 1934 and originally was intended to be an ice cream topping

According to the Internatio­nal Dairy Foods Associatio­n, the U.S. ice cream industry contribute­s more than $39 billion to the national economy and creates more than 188,000 jobs in communitie­s across the country.

Haagen-Dazs, the premium ice cream brand, is a made-up name to sound Danish and upscale.

Dolley Madison created a sensation when she served ice cream at her husband James’ presidenti­al inaugural ball.

More ice cream is sold on Sunday than any other day of the week.

Until 1800, ice cream remained a rare and exotic dessert enjoyed mostly by the elite.

The U.S. enjoys an average of 48 pints of ice cream per person, per year, more than any other country.

Chocolate syrup is the most popular ice cream topping.

About 9 percent of all the milk produced by U.S. dairy farmers is used to produce ice cream.

Immigrants at Ellis Island were served ice cream as part of the welcoming to America

Vanilla continues to be America’s flavor of choice.

Speaking of flavor, I asked my Facebook friends, “What is the most odd ice cream flavor you have tried?”

The responses are overwhelmi­ng and surprising: garlic; lobster, bacon and maple; goat cheese and blackberry; green tea; asparagus; corn; tomato; basil with crumbled glazed walnuts; malt with cheddar cheese chunks; black pepper and lavender; candy cap mushroom; avocado; cucumber; sunflower; salted Oreo; mascarpone basil; tar;lemon garlic; olive oil; licorice; beet; foie gras topped with salted caramel; blue cheese and pear; pistachio and garlic; pickle; egg and bacon; toasted sesame oil; thyme basil; salt and pepper; cornbread; candied salmon; cotton candy; sea water; secret breakfast which is made with bourbon and corn flake cookies, and black olive.

Ice cream flavors are only limited by the imaginatio­n. Manufactur­ers, chefs, ice cream shop owners and home cooks are always coming up with new combinatio­ns.

No matter what your age, ice cream is a treat, especially on a hot summer day. Some don’t stray from the basics such as chocolate or vanilla. Others, me included, are curious to try new flavors such as those mentioned by my Facebook friends.

To get ready for ice cream season, I added “Italian Cooking School: Ice Cream” by the editors of Phaidon Press. (2016, $15.95) to my collection.

It is the latest to join “The Silver Spoon” series where prior books featured pizza and pasta. “The Silver Spoon” is the classic volume of Italian cuisine, originally published in 1950, titled “Il Cuctchiaio d’Argento.” Ittar; is a leading authority in Italy and is one cookbook every Italian passes on to their children. About a decade ago, it was published for the first time in English.

Recipes in most of the ice cream cookbooks on my shelf are more complex than this one. Before the recipes are presented, different types of cold desserts are explained, as are the ingredient­s, the process and equipment needed. From indulgent ice creams such as pistachio with wild strawberri­es, mint chocolate, to the recipes for pineapple ice cream and Malaga wine ice cream; and refreshing sorbets such as cherry or prosecco, to novel frozen and chilled desserts like the recipe for greyhound ice pops, an adult treat (recipe at https://bit.ly/2sZTyON ) , and coffee granita with cream, you will be churning cool treats this summer.

Gelato all’ananas (Pineapple ice cream)

1 large fresh pineapple

1 8-ounce can pineapple chunks in

syrup

1 tablespoon confection­ers’ sugar 1 cup heavy cream, softly whipped

Slice the top off the pineapple, then remove the skin, core, and tougher parts. Put the pineapple flesh and chunks in syrup into a blender or food processor and blend together. Add the confection­ers’ sugar and stir. Refrigerat­e for 4 hours.

Put the mixture into an ice cream maker and churn for about 30 minutes, or according to manufactur­er’s directions. Fold in the whipped cream. Transfer the ice cream to a mold and freeze for about 3 hours, until solid.

Tip: you can use the pineapple shell to serve the ice cream. After slicing off the top off the pineapple, halve it lengthwise. Carefully scoop out the flesh without breaking the skin, remove the core and tougher parts and proceed as above. Transfer the ice cream to the pineapple shell instead of the mold.

I plan to add coconut flakes to see if I can recreate one of my favorite flavors.

Gelato al vino di Malaga (Malaga wine ice cream)

1 cup milk

1⁄3 cup superfine (caster) sugar ½ teaspoon vanilla extract

2 egg yolks

2⁄3 cup Malaga wine

½ cup heavy cream

To decorate:

1 orange, very thinly sliced Maraschino cherries

Wafers

In a heavy saucepan, combine the milk, sugar and vanilla and bring to a boil. Remove pan from heat. In a double boiler, without any heat, whisk the egg yolks, then add the wine in a thin stream. Continue whisking and gradually add the hot milk mixture. Place the double boiler over low heat and cook, stirring constantly, until the mixture thickens. This will take at least 20 minutes. Alternativ­ely, use a heatproof bowl set over a saucepan of simmering water. Remove from heat and let the custard cool, still stirring constantly. Using an electric mixer, whip the heavy cream to stiff peaks, and then add it to the custard. Refrigerat­e for 4 hours. Pour mixture into an ice cream maker and churn according to manufactur­er’s directions. Transfer the ice cream to the mold and freeze for about 3 hours, until solid. When ready to serve, unmold the ice cream onto a serving dish and decorate it with orange slices, cherries and wafers.

Culinary calendar

⏩ “The Wonder of the Cocktail,” Wednesday, Thursday, Friday. Foxwoods Resort Casino, 1-800-FOXWOODS. Wine and spirits tastings, master class seminars, a chefs’ dine-around tasting, poolside cocktail party and a grand tasting. For event schedule and prices visit https://webtixs.foxwoods.com/SE9

⏩ Internatio­nal Wine and Craft Beer Tasting: Compassion­ate Care Awards Gala,

Thursday, 6 p.m., Woodwinds, 29 Schoolgrou­nd Road, Branford, 203-782-4330, $75, https://bit.ly/2J0BcHK. Features a delicious variety of wine and beer from many vendors, buffet dinner, silent auction, and DJ.

⏩ Ramen 101 Cooking Class,

Saturday, 6:30-9 p.m., Chef’s Emporium, 449 Boston Post Road, Orange, Tickets: call 203799-2665. $59. Learn how to make one of the latest food trends. Learn how to prepare three variations of a traditiona­l Ramen noodle soup. For other classes, including children and teen classes, visit https://bit.ly/2kwz1hm.

⏩ Consiglio’s Cooking Demonstrat­ion and Dinner: June 28, 6:30 p.m., Consiglio’s Restaurant, 165 Wooster St., New Haven, 203865-4489 (reservatio­ns required), $75 (beverages, tax and gratuity not included). Learn how to make focaccia topped with figs, pine nuts, caramelize­d onions and Gorgonzola; shredded Brussels sprout salad; macaroni and Fontina, bay scallops and pesto bread crumbs and burnt caramel pots de crème.

 ?? Liz and Max Haarala Hamilton / Contribute­d photo ?? Gelato al vino di Malaga (Malaga wine ice cream)
Liz and Max Haarala Hamilton / Contribute­d photo Gelato al vino di Malaga (Malaga wine ice cream)
 ??  ?? Greyhound ice pops, an adult treat. Recipe at https://bit.ly/2sZTyON
Greyhound ice pops, an adult treat. Recipe at https://bit.ly/2sZTyON
 ?? Contribute­d photo ?? “Italian Cooking School: Ice Cream,” Phaidon Press
Contribute­d photo “Italian Cooking School: Ice Cream,” Phaidon Press
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