The Register Citizen (Torrington, CT)
PLATES RUNNETH OVER
Even more from a tasty journey around Scottsdale
There was much to see and taste.
So much, I needed to devote two columns about my food explorations in Scottsdale. The area is known for its beautiful desert scenery, but as I came to know, it is also a foodie’s heaven. The talented chef ’s menus utilizing local ingredients, some indigenous to the area, as well as food entrepreneurs creating innovative products make for a vibrant food scene. So let’s get going on part two.
A visit to Hayden Flour Mills in Queen Creek, Ariz., was a treat, being able to see behind the scenes of a food factory. The familyowned mill grows the same heritage grains from a time when flour was nonhybridized, minimally processed, very nutritious and flavorful. Many of the area chefs use their flours and grains, since they produce better quality dishes. Check out the website for info about classes, dinners, factory tours, and creative recipes, or to purchase these excellent, artisan products. You will notice, as I did, both the flavor and textural differences cooking with Hayden Flour Mills’ products. Check out my interview with Emma Zimmerman, daughter of the founder and the visionary leading operations, at https://bit.ly/312DVV3.
Queen Creek Olive Mill in Queen Creek was my next stop. It is Arizona’s first working olive farm and mill. The farm has more than 7,000 olive trees of 16 varieties. The tour enlightened me on how extravirgin olive oil is made. The Rea family has created an agritourism experience where you learn, taste a plethora of oils, and shop from a huge selection of extravirgin olive oils, balsamic vinegars, tapenades, stuffed olives and allnatural home and body products made with the oil. As I walked around, tasting the oils, provided recipe cards offer inspiration on using the oils. The Italianinspired restaurant features family recipes and showcases how extravirgin olive oil can best be used in the kitchen. Oh, and those cupcakes using olive oil, heavenly. The cookbook of the family’s recipes was a must! I’ll share some of those recipes with you another time.
Modern Latin cuisine, blending influences from Spain, Mexico, and Central America, is what The Mission Kierland is all about. Be sure to check out the stunning bar. You won’t find packaged tortillas here, since they are freshly made each day. Chef Matt Carter prepared a feast of a tasting menu. Guacamole was prepared tableside, a bit of entertainment before digging in. Almejas Al Vapo (Peruvian clam stew, rock shrimp, chorizo, aji amarillo and roasted corn, served with pan de yucca) is flavored just enough to make your mouth tingle for more. Duck Carnitas Empanadas bring this traditional street food to another level (duck confit, foie gras, orange habañero glaze, oregano, mushroom & queso Oaxaca). Those who like spicy food will enjoy the Crispy Pork marinated in Cola Lime Glaze (pork belly, cola, lime, chiltepin, peanuts, pickled red onion and iceberg lettuce). The spiciness comes from the chiltepin, a little pepper that is big on heat. Two different handpressed corn tortillas were served; Short Rib Barbacoa aji panca (raisin, smoked cashew, b+b pickle & cotija) and Brussels sprouts (sesame, chile de árbol, apple, ginger, toasted peanut and cotija). Then, it was on to the main course, Chorizo Porchetta (pork shoulder, house made chorizo, rosemary, cotija, white bean puree and sweet garlic crema). The symphony of flavors are a creative culinary orchestration. For dessert, Pumpkin Bread Pudding. You should know, I am a big fan of bread pudding. Scotch, pepitas and pomegranate are used in this preparation, quite unique for a humble breadpudding dessert. A dozen margaritas are on the menu. Their signature, The Mission Margarita (Cazadores añejo tequila, pressed lime, orange juice, agave nectar, egg white and a touch of Grand Marnier) was suggested.
Cartel Coffee Lab is the place for a topnotch cup of java. Light fare is served as is a rotation of Arizona beers and wine. The staff is knowledgeable about coffee and how to brew it.
Craft beer and pizza aficionados will enjoy Craft 64 . On tap are 30 Arizona craft beers. It was listed in USA Today Travel as a great Arizona beer destination. Pizzas are made with organic ingredients, and baked in a 900degree, woodfired oven. The fantastic mozzarella is made here, too! Those who enjoy wine won’t be disappointed with a list of 200 labels. Knowing the cheese was made earlier in the day, the Caprese salad was a must. The Uovo pizza (mozzarella, parmigiano reggiano, ricotta, bacon, two eggs, spinach) makes a perfect breakfast pizza.
A chocolatier is always on my list of places to visit and Zak’s Chocolate not only makes smallbatch craft chocolate, they also roast the beans, truly bean to bar. There is a Connecticut connection, too: the husband and wife team met at the University of Connecticut in their freshman English class. Maureen is a selftaught chocolatier who began making chocolate after she had a difficult time finding organic chocolate. She taught Jim, who roasts the beans and assists her. They were excited to tell me they took home three of the 2019 International Chocolate Awards: Silver for the Coffee Break Bar, a dark chocolate bar with milk and locally roasted coffee, blended together for the perfect Coffee Break; Silver for their Belize SingleOrigin White Chocolate Bar; and Bronze for the Peru Maranon SingleOrigin White Chocolate Bar. Have your chocolate and drink it, too, with the drinking chocolate. Enjoy a cup of coffee and a singleorigin brownie or chocolate ice cream, all made with their beantobar chocolate. Chocolate lovers, come on down!
Cartwright’s Modern Cuisine in Cave Creek, Ariz., is no ordinary restaurant. Chef and owner Brett Vibber forages the surrounding desert, rivers, hills and forests with staff members every morning. And, luckily, I was invited to go out with them. The “fruits of their labor” are reflected on the evening’s epicurean menu. His goal is to serve quintessential Arizona dishes using regionally sourced ingredients. Dungeness Crab Cakes are prepared with yuzu, ginger, local greens and Rhiba Farms chili remoulade. The Mesquite Flour Gnocchi has a unique preparation; fiddlehead ferns, housemade bacon, duck egg yolk, goat feta cheese, peppercorns and dried poppies. Seared trout and sockeye salmon is delicate and served with wheatberries and Navaho steamed corn. The creativity continues with dessert, meringue cake with wild berry compote, white chocolate bark, lavenderhuckleberry ice cream, lemon curd, mesquite streusel, topped with sumac cream. And, it doesn’t stop here; for a “liquid” dessert, try the
White Chocolate Whisper (Captain Morgan spiced rum, Godiva white chocolate liqueur, butterscotch schnapps, Chambord) garnished with a fresh strawberry and swirled chocolate straw.
I have been a fan of Fairytale Brownies, the mail order gift company for many years. Its beginning is quite sweet (no pun intended). In 1971, two kids in kindergarten, Eileen Spitalny and David Kravetz, dreamed that one day they would start their own company. Fastforward to 1992 when their dream became reality. Today they bake and deliver millions of brownies, cookies and bars across the nation. I knew they were based in Arizona, so I looked them up, and sure enough the cavernous bakery is located in Phoenix, only a short drive away. I spoke with Eileen, who invited me for a tour. Although there are no public tours, you can view the bakery through a large window at the entrance where you can also sample and purchase the best brownies you will ever eat. Who knew that David’s mother’s recipe would lead to spreading joy with millions of gourmet brownies and treats and end up featured on both “Food Finds” and “Unwrapped” on The Food Network.
Before or after a stop at Fairytale Brownies, dine at Mora in Phoenix, one of celebrity Chef Scott Conant’s restaurants. You might recall from a past column, Scott is from Waterbury. Conant’s contemporary approach to Italian cooking reimagines timehonored classics such as rich polenta with porcini sugo, and makes bold new impressions with innovative fare such as black campanelle pasta with clams, fresno chilis and bottarga breadcrumbs. Your taste buds will thank you for dining at Mora!
A quote from the late famous chef and restaurateur Charlie Trotter sums up my travel to Scottsdale: “All four elements were happening in equal measure — the cuisine, the wine, the service, and the overall ambience. It taught me that dining could happen at a spiritual level.”
To get more of a taste of Scottsdale, check out www.arizonafoodtours.com,
TasteItTours.com or chocolatetourofscottsdale.com. For more on Scottsdale, visit experiencescottsdale.com.
Culinary calendar
⏩ Chefs of Our Kitchen Series: Ryan Durant, owner and executive chef of Assaggio in Branford, and competitor for the title of “Sexiest Chef Alive” from People Magazine/Food Network. Oct. 23, 6 p.m., Gateway Community College, 20 Church St., New Haven, 2032852617, $65 includes preevent reception and threecourse dinner, with wine pairings. Mingle with Ryan at the reception and then watch his demonstration of the dishes being prepared as you enjoy dinner. Reservations required. Validated parking (bring parking ticket to event) at the Temple Street Garage. Proceeds benefit Gateway foundation. Tickets and series information at gatewayfdn.org/cooktickets.
⏩ Rum Dinner, Oct. 24, 6 p.m., Shell & Bones Oyster Bar and Grill, 100 S. Water Street, New Haven, 2037873466, $65 per person, including tax and gratuity. Fourcourse menu features culinary brilliance by Executive Chef Arturo FrancoCamacho and cocktail expertise by Mixologist Alexandra Reed. Menu, details and tickets at https://bit.ly/2nGi600.
⏩ Consiglio’s Mystery Dinner Party: “Eve’s Hollow” Oct. 25, 7 p.m. (doors open at 6 p.m.), Consiglio’s Restaurant, 165 Wooster St., New Haven, reservations at 2038654489, $65 includes dinner and show (beverages, tax and gratuity not included). An interactive comedy show that goes on throughout the evening during a 3course meal. Cast mingles table to table, dropping clues for a mystery only you can solve. Who will survive the hysterical crimes about to be committed? Dress in Halloween costumes to compete for top prize. https://bit.ly/32gXryX
⏩ Hogs and Hops Beer Feastival, Oct. 26, 1 p.m., Bear’s Smokehouse at The Stack, 470 James St., New Haven, general admission $40, VIP tickets $75 includes admission an hour earlier at noon, reserved seating and a fire pit social. Benefits Vie for the Kids. Tastings from breweries, cideries and distilleries, allyoucaneat pig roast with sides, games and prizes. Information, participating breweries and tickets at https://bit.ly/2OUiB1H.
⏩ New Haven Restaurant Week, Nov. 38, prixfixe menus: $17 twocourse lunches, $34 threecourse dinners. For participating restaurants, visit https://bit.ly/1sQTIxo.
Cooking questions? Send them to Stephen Fries at gwstephen.fries@gwcc.commnet.edu or Dept. FC, Gateway Community College, 20 Church St., New Haven 06510. Include your full name, address and phone number. Due to volume, I might not be able to publish every request. For more, go to stephenfries.com.