Getting a jump-start on spring
it seems like winter just isn’t going to let go, I know of nothing as satisfying and joyfilled as watching tiny vegetable seedlings emerge from a tray of soil, each one raising two bright green leaves upward in an exuberant, “Yes!” Two leafy hands open to everything — light, air, water. What makes this all the more delightful is how incredibly easy it is. All you need is a container, some potting soil, seeds, water, and a sunny windowsill. If you don’t have a sunny sill, it’s easy — and not too expensive — to buy a plant stand with a grow-light. Or, you can rig up your own with a shop light fixture and full-spectrum fluorescent bulbs.
It’s easy, but there are a few things that are helpful to know:
Container: It helps if the containers are relatively deep, to allow good root development. Drainage holes in the bottom are essential; you want consistently moist soil, not a swamp. Put a tray beneath to catch excess water.
Potting Soil: Potting soil is better for starting seeds than garden soil, but the best is a light, fluffy, purposely-designed seed starting mix that makes it easier for emerging seedlings. Also be sure the mix is sterile. There are some fungal diseases that can lurk in soils that will kill new seedlings before they have a chance to amount to anything. My favorite is Gardeners Supply Company Seed Starting Mix. (They also have a lovely Transplant Mix.)
Seeds: Suitable for starting indoors now are the heat-loving, long-growing-season vegetables like tomatoes and peppers. You know best which types you like, e.g., cherry or beefsteak tomatoes, red/yellow/orange, but also check for disease resistance and whether the vines are determinate (grow to a specific height and don’t require much support) or indeterminate (continue to grow through the whole season and need tall cages or other support).
Water: Since the water comes up really cold from our well, I keep a container set aside, so that I’m applying room-temperature water. Be sure to keep the soil most until the seeds have germinated and the seedlings have a good root system.
Sunny Windowsill: Until the seeds sprout, warmth is more important than light. You can use a seedling heat mat (plugs into a wall outlet) or place your containers on top of the refrigerator or some other consistently warm spot. A sunny windowsill or a shelf or table next to a window is fine, but consistent light from a plant light is better. Keep the bulb just above, not touching, the top leaves of your plants. Adjust the height as the plants grow.
When planting your seeds, follow the directions on the packet
for planting depth. Or, figure on a planting depth of twice the size of the seed. Plant at least two or three seeds per cell in case one or two don’t germinate.
There is, actually, a hard part to starting seeds, and that is having the strength to thin out the seedlings that are less tall/robust/ have fewer leaves than the
others. It can feel heartless to do this, but it’s really for the best for your plants and garden. Leaving too many seedlings close together is like allowing weeds to grow.
Edible Plants Workshop
On Sunday, March 18, from 1 to 3 p.m., the West Chester Master Gardeners will present a workshop on Growing Edible Plants. They’ll provide an overview
for both beginners and long-time gardeners. They’ll also provide strategies for homeowners to blend edible plants into the landscape, making the best use of garden space. Price is $10 and registration is recommended; deadline is midnight on Saturday, March 17. It will be held at the East Bradford Township Building at 666 Copeland School Road. For more information and to register, check https://extension.psu. edu/growing-edible-plants