The Reporter (Lansdale, PA)

Can of tuna is big kahuna in range of entrees

That can in your pantry is the big kahuna in a range of entrees

- By Cathy Thomas For Media News Group Saveur

I have the utmost respect for canned tuna. Trust me, anyone who has spent summer days standing over an enormous pressure canner filled with quart jars of fish values those tidy little storebough­t cans. My years married to an avid deep-sea fisherman were perfumed with hundreds of pounds of fish: albacore, marlin and big-eye tuna.

Canning it, well, produced a smell that could make angels weep and cats congregate.

Those can-fish-at-home days are long past. My appreciati­on for tuna’s versatilit­y has never waned. I was delighted to find a grayed, 2003 issue of

magazine in a throwout stack. The cover glorified canned tuna. Long ago I had written about the story inside with the headline that read “Why We Love Canned Tuna.”

“I’m here to maintain,” wrote author Colman Andrews, “that canned tuna — almost any kind, but especially albacore packed in olive oil … is one of the great gastronomi­c pleasures of everyday life.”

Now, thanks to Phil, my buyit-in-a-can second husband, preserving fish is a thing of my past. His tuna salad is incredible. To a drained 5- or 6-ounce can of tuna, he adds about 3 tablespoon­s mayonnaise, finely diced red onion and celery, then about 2 teaspoons curry powder. The curry powder (generally a blend of ground cardamom, chilies, cinnamon, cloves, coriander, cumin, fennel seed and nutmeg) gives tuna an alluring aromatic edge.

Tuna, Rice and Mushroom Casserole

Clipped sometime in the ’70s from a magazine bought at the grocery store check-out, this casserole recipe yields an upscale version of tuna concoction­s that were popular in the ’50s. I remember the potato chip-topped tuna casseroles consumed in my friends’ homes on Friday nights; they contained pasta and cream of mushroom soup. This rice-filled rendition makes a casual white sauce with cheese from scratch (Mornay sauce) and is topped with cracker crumbs. Decades ago, I used saltine crackers as a topping. Now I use whatever savory cracker I have on hand, or I substitute coarse breadcrumb­s. Yield: 4-5 servings

INGREDIENT­S

1⁄2 pound sliced fresh mushrooms 4tablespoo­ns butter, divided use 1⁄2 cup diced celery

1⁄4 cup chopped onion 2tablespoo­ns all-purpose flour 2 cups milk

1 teaspoon salt

Dash of ground cayenne

1⁄4 teaspoon dry ground mustard 2(5-ounce) cans canned tuna, drained

2cups cooked rice — any variety

DIRECTIONS

1. Preheat oven to 375degrees. Melt 2tablespoo­ns butter in a large, deep skillet on medium-high heat. Add mushrooms, celery and onion; cook until onions soften, stirring occasional­ly, about 6minutes. Sprinkle with flour; stir to combine. Remove from heat; gradually stir in milk and add seasonings. Cook on medium-high heat; bring to boil. Boil, stirring constantly, until thickened to the consistenc­y of creamed soup, about 2-3 minutes (it will thicken more when the cheese is added). Set aside.

2. Drain and flake tuna with a fork. In a large bowl, combine tuna, rice, almonds (if using) and cheese (reserving 2tablespoo­ns cheese to use on top). Add mushroom mixture and toss. Place in a 2-quart casserole.

3. Melt remaining 2tablespoo­ns butter and mix with cracker crumbs. Sprinkle crumbs and remaining cheese on top of mixture in the casserole. Bake 30-35minutes or until piping hot throughout.

If you have a couple of cans of tuna and cannellini beans in your pantry, this simple Tuscan dish can be a quick entree or appetizer. In this dish, quality tuna makes a big difference. Look for tuna that is packed in olive oil. Most supermarke­ts carry at least one brand (I usually buy Genova brand yellowfin tuna in olive oil). Yield: 4main-course servings or 6appetizer servings

INGREDIENT­S

1⁄3 medium red onion, peeled, chopped 2tablespoo­ns red wine vinegar 2(15-ounce) cans cannellini beans, rinsed, drained

1⁄4 cup extra-virgin olive oil Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 8-10ounces canned tuna (packed in olive oil preferred)

1 tablespoon chopped Italian parsley

Optional garnish: cherry tomatoes

DIRECTIONS

1. Place onion and vinegar in nonreactiv­e bowl for 15 minutes. Drain onion.

2. Place beans in serving bowl. Add onion, olive oil, salt and pepper. Gently toss.

3. Drain tuna. Break into flakes or chunks with fork. Scatter on top of beans. Sprinkle with parsley. If desired, garnish with tomatoes.

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 ?? COURTEY OF NICK KOON ?? Optional: 1⁄4 cup slivered almonds 1⁄2 cup shredded cheddar cheese 1⁄3 cup cracker crumbs
Tuscan Tuna and Bean Salad is an easy dish. Make sure you spring for high-quality tuna packed in olive oil.
COURTEY OF NICK KOON Optional: 1⁄4 cup slivered almonds 1⁄2 cup shredded cheddar cheese 1⁄3 cup cracker crumbs Tuscan Tuna and Bean Salad is an easy dish. Make sure you spring for high-quality tuna packed in olive oil.
 ?? COURTESY OF CATHY THOMAS ?? Tuna, Rice and Mushroom Casserole can be topped with any type of cracker crumbs or breadcrumb­s.
COURTESY OF CATHY THOMAS Tuna, Rice and Mushroom Casserole can be topped with any type of cracker crumbs or breadcrumb­s.

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