COOLER DAYS, RICHER FLAVORS
Autumn lends itself to hearty fare like slow-cooked lamb for a dinner party
Ah, breathe in the aroma of slowroasted meat melding with plenty of garlic and fresh herbs. The house takes on the scent of what I imagine to be a French farmhouse with a talented home cook at the helm. An autumn menu with luscious, full-flavored dishes can celebrate the shorter days and cooler evenings; it can be the cornerstone of a small dinner gathering.
Autumn is such a great time to bring a few friends together. Cookbook maven and Food Network star Ina Garten has mastered a four-hour leg of lamb that would be hard to beat. The technique of low and slow braising seems to create a sense of luxury and liberation.
At serving time, carving isn’t required because the lamb is too tender to slice. Pull-apart pieces are served warm in large, shallow bowls. Diners’ large placesetting spoons scoop up the meat along with reduced, wine-based braising juices and Provençal white beans spiked with celery, carrots, garlic and fresh herbs.
Before the lamb is served, a multicolored salad of golden beets, oranges and red onion brightens the lineup. It is napped with a shallot and fresh tarragon (or basil) vinaigrette made ahead. A light sprinkle of crumbled goat cheese adorns the top. The hues reflect the season, and everything except the assembly can be prepared in advance.
Some may argue that ice cream doesn’t seem apropos for a fall menu, but in this case, it seems to be the ticket. The oven is tied up for hours with that gently cooking lamb, so baking is probably out. Besides, ice cream sundaes topped with homemade hot fudge sauce are delicious no matter the season. Small ones are probably best in this case.
My favorite hot fudge sundae uses a chocolate ice cream amped with peanut butter (such as Breyer’s Chocolate With Peanut Butter). Riffing on the peanut butter theme, I add a small sprinkling of salted, roasted peanuts as a garnish on top of the hot fudge. Add whipped cream, if you like, and perhaps a crisp cookie.
Welcome, autumn. Dig in.