The Riverside Press-Enterprise
Neighborhood Winery throws in a deli menu
Have some matzo, latkes or kugel with your chardonnay, the owner urges
The Neighborhood Winery held its grand opening in early March in downtown L.A. with the goal of becoming the go-to spot where wine lovers can chill out and toss back a few glasses of natural vino created using grapes from Central California.
But it has a double identity. While it may not look like a deli at all — thanks to a modern interior decorated in a wood motif with communal tables, an exposed brick wall and a bar stacked with wine bottles — the new tasting room could be considered part Jewish deli, thanks to a menu inspired by the co-owner’s greatgrandfather, who was a kosher butcher in Brooklyn by day and a winemaker by night.
“I knew I wanted Neighborhood Winery to have its own presence in L.A., and I knew we wanted to focus on the natural wines here, but I wasn’t sure what food we would pair the wines with,” said Nick Perr, who owns the wine bar with his wife, Carmen.
“My great-grandfather’s story lasted with me and I wanted to pair the wines with some of these foods that I would enjoy with my dad’s family,” he added.
The Neighborhood Winery is in a space that was once Pali Wine Co., which was founded by Nick
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Perr’s parents. The new spot is centered around a variety of natural wines that are fermented from yeast that occurs naturally on the grapes and in the air. This means the wines tend to be crisper and leaner in profile, with lower alcohol. Some are also on tap like beer.
“They have a little more of a youthful expression and more primary fruit flavors,” Nick Perr said.
The menu includes the Perrs’ interpretation of classic New York, Jewish and Eastern European fare found in Jewish delis like latkes, matzo, pastrami sandwiches and schnitzel.
Since the wine menu is meant to be paired, Perr made suggestions for three dishes on the menu.
THE DISH >> Matzo with borscht butter
THE WINE >> Natty Chardonnay THE DETAILS >> This dish is inspired by an Eastern European stew made from beets, onion, leeks and herbs roasted together. Perr’s version is incorporated into a hot pink butter that’s served with a matzo cracker. He pairs this with the white Chardonnay.
“It has this lemon tart flavor and I think that complements the savory of the beets and roasted root vegetable flavors nicely,” he said.
THE DISH >> Maddie’s Award-winning Latkes
THE WINE >> Pet Mac sparkling chardonnay and pinot noir mix made with apples
THE DETAILS >> These savory latkes, which are made using a family recipe from an employee,
mix the shredded potato fritter dish with a homemade apple relish.
“That fat potato flavor doesn’t come off as heavy when you pair it with the wine, not to mention that the applesauce and the wine itself has apples too,” he said.
THE DISH >> Savory kugel
THE WINE >> Dawn, an orange pinot gris
THE DETAILS >> Made with egg
noodles, cheese and panko breadcrumbs, this is sort of like a mac and cheese dish. Perr pairs it with the orange wine because it has a bit of an earthy component with hints of dry fruits and tropical flavors.
“I think that those complex flavors are really nice against the deeper flavors of the different cheeses and the breadcrumbs. I think that’s nicely complemented,” he said.