CAR DOCTOR Q&A
Q. Am original owner of a 2018 Subaru Forester, with 43,000 miles on it I have been recently experiencing what I believe to be a tire balance issue. This occurs at about 65-70 miles per hour. Above and below that speed all is normal. I have had all tires high speed balanced but the same issue remains. I was reading online about Hunter’s Road Force Balance machine. I was very impressed by the internet demonstration of that particular tire balance machine and it’s s workings. However, I am finding it very difficult in locating a tire balance shop that has the Hunter’s tire balance machine. I suspect it would be more expensive to tire balance with this machine, but I would go the extra expense.
A. The Hunter Road Force tire balancer has been around for many years now and is the “gold-standard” of tire balancers. It is a very common machine in better tire stores and in many cases required equipment in some new car dealerships. As good as it is, the person using it can make all of the difference. All tires and wheels have high and low spots and in some cases you need to match the low spot of the tire with the high spot in the wheel to get the best (most round) combination. I have also seen flat tire repair products and even water that gets into a tire cause a vibration. Additionally, you need to make sure the wheels and hubs are free of any coorsion and spinning without any wobble.
Q. I am hoping that you can help me with an ongoing problem with my 2013 Audi A6 which I have owned since new and now has 46,500 miles on it. Several months ago, a dashboard warning light began appearing intermittently stating that there is right turn signal, brake light right rear failure. At first, I suspected it was just the bulb which was replaced to no avail. I then took it to my Audi dealer who replaced the right rear taillight assembly. It then worked fine for 3-4 weeks when the same icon re appeared. At all times the brake lights, turn signals were all functioning correctly but the dashboard blinker flashed much faster than normal, but the actual directional signal was blinking properly as were the brake lights. I also might add, after turning the car off and letting it sit for several hours when the car was re started everything functioned normally, but then after driving for 15-30 minutes the warning light re appeared. This also seems to be temperature related, if the car was sitting in the hot sun or if ambient temperature is greater than 60 degrees the warning light appears more quickly.
A. The fault is an issue with a transistor in the lamp assembly. Audi did issue a technical service bulletin about the lights. In some cases, all four turn signal assemblies need replacement. Perhaps, the dealer did not use the updated part and only replaced the right rear assembly with the same part with the same faulty transistor?
Q. My 2018 Chevy Equinox LT has a 1.5-liter turbocharged four-cylinder engine. When the engine is cold and I am driving, when I apply the brake pedal the car pulsates until I let up on the brake pedal and press down on the brake pedal again it stops pulsating.
A. Since this issue is somewhat easily repeatable it would be best to leave it at the repair shop or dealership overnight to let them experience what you are experiencing. The issue may be related to a faulty vacuum pump or a problem with the brake power booster.
Q. I need to replace the passenger side headlight assembly for a 2013 Infiniti JX35 due to a broken seal and water infiltration. The factory part costs $1,785 while an aftermarket CAPA certified part is $750. Am I taking a chance by going with the aftermarket part or is it better to stick with the OEM part?
A. If the part is CAPA (Certified Automotive Parts Association) certified, and you can save $1000 over the factory part that is the part I would use. If the car was involved in a collision, that is also that part the body shop would use. Aftermarket parts quality can vary, but being CAPA certified means is certified as an original equipment replacement part.
Q. I have a 2016 Toyota Camry SE with 28,000 miles. A vibrating noise developed in the alternator area. My mechanic said he had to remove the belt to determine whether it was the the alternator, water pump, or some other problem. He called me and said the water pump was the problem. When I went to pick up the car, my mechanic said that the alternator and pulley were also bad and had to be replaced. I’ve owned many Camrys and I have reservations about his conclusion that both went bad with such low mileage and at the same time.
I was wondering what your thoughts are on this issue.
A. I’m surprised anything is wrong with a six-year-old Toyota a Camry with only 28,000 miles on it. Your mechanics’ diagnostic procedure was correct, removing the drive belt to eliminate the component that is causing the vibration makes sense. Technicians will also use a “mechanics” stethoscope to pinpoint vibrations and noises. Years ago, if someone over tighten a fan/drive belt it could cause excessive wear on different component bearings. Your car uses a self-adjusting tensioner, so that is unlikely. Was the water pump really okay and the alternator was really the issue, without seeing and old parts it is anyone’s guess as to what was wrong.
Q. I own a 1966 Buick Wildcat with the 425 “Nail Head” engine. I would like to know what the recommended gasoline octane is and should I use a lead additive when I add fuel. Also, what would be the recommend oil weight that I should use.
A. This really depends how you drive your car. When this car was built, there was lead in gasoline and limited additives. Also, oil was a single viscosity and had higher levels of zinc which lubricated cams and valve lifters. If you drive your car on weekends and only a few thousand miles per year, premium fuel and 10W-40 oil is probably fine. If you wanted to go the extra mile, depending on where you live you might find 91 octane recreation or marine fuel is available. This fuel will have the higher octane needed for that engine and no ethanol. Again, depending on how the car is being driven and if the heads have not been reworked with hardened valve guides and seats and are still stock, I would use a lead additive (Redline and others make it). Follow the directions and don’t use more than necessary. With oil changes I would use oil with ZDDP —higher level of Zinc which can be beneficial with “flat-tappet” engines. Old car people feel free to weigh in on how you care for your vintage vehicles.