Lost Valley Trail a popular hike in Ozarks
Outdoor writer and photographer Corbet Deary is featured regularly in The Sentinel-Record. Today, Deary writes about Lost Valley Trail.
Several years have passed, but I can still recall my first photo excursion into the Ozarks. The plan was to set up a base camp on the banks of the Buffalo River at Steel Creek Recreation Area. Although our nights would be spent at this particular destination, our days would focus on roaming throughout the Ozark region.
We had researched the area prior to our journey and had a tentative list of locations we wanted to see firsthand. But we were also game to experience spots that we might happen upon along the way.
To say I was impressed with this particular section of the state would prove an understatement. I had never spent any time on the Buffalo. The view from our base camp was awe-inspiring. And our excursions took us places where incredible scenery aroused my passion for the craft of photography. I found myself peering through the viewfinder at a steep and jagged substrate, magnificent waterfalls pouring over sheer bluffs and plummeting many feet prior to colliding with emerald colored pools below, and a plethora of showy wildflowers that appeared to flourish in a heavy limestone content.
Although each and every one of these locations beckoned my attention, I can recall one destination in particular that I found most intriguing. It was not the most remote stop of the excursion. In fact, it was just the opposite, probably the most visited and easily accessible location we had visited throughout the entire five-day excursion.
I didn’t mind sharing the designated path, though. Lost Valley Trail is such a special place that everyone should have the opportunity to experience what it has to offer firsthand.
I actually returned to Lost Valley during the following fall, and camped at the recreation area. It couldn’t get any better. The trailhead was hardly more than a stone’s throw from my tent. I could crawl out of the sack 30 minutes before daylight with time to spare. I could hit the trail just as it grew light enough to see. I eagerly awaited the opportunity to capture her sheer beauty under the soft illumination of the early morning sun.
Things have since changed Lost Valley, as floodwaters eventually roared through the campgrounds. The wrath of Mother Nature had taken its toll. The damage was immense. Hours of manpower transpired before the designated area was back open to the public.
Although the recreation area was eventually reopened after the project’s completion, the results of the flood would be long-lasting. I suppose it was a fear that torrential rainfall could once again fall from the sky, leaving the creek, that runs alongside the trail and recreation area, swollen and out of control. In turn, the camping area was deemed as day-use only.
I was certainly disappointed to learn of the campground’s closing during my following visit. But it was nice to know that Mother Nature had pretty well healed herself. There were few indications that a previous flood has consumed the land, other than a newly built trail.
I was somewhat surprised to see a trail that had once again been eroded during a recent visit. This section of the state had obviously experienced a bout of heavy precipitation at some time or another, although the creek was literally dry at the time we hiked the trail.
Crossing the small drainage area, we proceeded along the weathered path. Large beech trees took root on the righthand side of the trail. The understory was fairly light, lending to a great view of the creek.
For some reason, folks can’t seem to resist carving into the smooth bark of beech trees. One side of me was disgusted at some folk’s lack of respect for the forest and for others who would hike along the trail. But there was yet another side of me that kind of found the carvings of hearts and initials somewhat intriguing.
I couldn’t help but ponder how many of those who so proudly proclaimed their love via tree trunk still share the same sentiments for each other. I also wondered if any of these folks have revisited the trail and if they were willing to divulge their artwork to their newest loves.
The view on the left-hand side of the trail was much different. The understory was lush and thick. The jagged and wooded hillside also differed from the sheer bluff line that soon came into view on the opposing side of the designated path.
The trail came to a “Y” and would eventually make a loop and tie back into itself. Taking a right, we continued alongside the creek, as the trail headed steeply down a set of stairs built of native stone.
This was one of my favorite spots throughout the entire journey, as the path leads to a huge grotto where the creek literally runs through a huge tunnel in the rock formation. This was the first time, however, that I had been to this location when water wasn’t pouring through the large hole and into a pool below.
From the grotto, the trail began an ascent up yet another set of stairs constructed of native stone, still following the contour of the creek. I had located a large colony of Round Lobed Hepaticas (a showy wildflower that blooms during the later winter months) along this section of the trail a few years ago. And although they would certainly not be flowering during the late summer, I did have an opportunity to get a good look at the foliage, which does not make a showing until after they bloom.
The path continued up the hill. Taking a spur trail to the right we followed the path to an opening overlooking a sheer bluff in the back of a draw. It looked a little different without any water, as the creek plummets over the two sheer structures during the wetter times of the year, producing Edan Falls. The upper set of falls is 31 feet tall and the lower is 53. Together, these two falls produce an incredible scene. And I can recall one wintertime trip when huge icicles dangled from the bluff lines.
The spur trail continued beyond Edan falls, eventually ending at the mouth of a cave. One can actually enter this cave and those who do so will be richly rewarded. The first several feet are somewhat difficult to navigate, as one literally has to crawl. But the ceiling eventually opens into a cavern, where there is a 15foot waterfall. Returning back to the main trail, we followed the route steeply down the hill and back to where the walk began. Upon arriving at the vehicle, I was somewhat disappointed that the creek was dry. But even during the summer months, the Lost Valley Trail was a location where I would surely return again.
To get to the trailhead, take Highway 7 north to Russellville. Head west (left) onto Interstate 40 and travel about 7 miles. Take Exit 64 onto Highway 64. Go approximately three-tenths of a mile and veer right onto east main. Travel
5.5 miles and take a right onto Highway 21. Go 28 miles and veer right onto Highway 16. Travel about 20 more miles and veer right onto Highway 43. Travel 3.3 miles and take a left onto Lost Valley Road. Follow the dirt road six-tenths of a mile to the parking area.