Boxley Valley offers glimpse of free-roaming elk
Outdoor writer and photographer Corbet Deary is featured regularly in The Sentinel-Record. Today, Deary writes about Boxley Valley.
There was a time when elk roamed throughout the United States by the millions. But with time comes change. A growing society lent to less-suitable habitat for these huge and pristine cervids to thrive. Overhunting also played a significant role in the decline of the elk population throughout the United States.
The change was so drastic that the herds eventually dwindled, leaving only the few that still roam the West. Believe it or not, elk once freely roamed throughout Arkansas’ eastern pine and hardwood forests, as well. But our native herds also fell prey to the aforementioned stumbling blocks. They grew sparse by the mid-1800s and became extinct in Arkansas.
The U.S. Forest Service devised and implemented a plan to reintroduce elk to Arkansas in 1933. Three bulls and eight cows, from an Oklahoma national wildlife refuge, were captured and relocated to the Black Mountain Refuge in Franklin County.
The herd initially prospered, as its numbers increased to in the neighborhood of 200 by the mid-1950s, but they eventually vanished. There are no answers as to exactly why the elk disappeared. There was speculation that illegal hunting, natural mortality, and a shrinking habitat as a result of forest growth might have lent to their disappearance.
The Arkansas Game and Fish Commission, in cooperation with private citizens, embarked upon yet another elk restoration project in 1981. The plan was to focus on the Ozark Mountains of northwest Arkansas.
The project released 112 elk from Colorado and Nebraska in Newton County between 1981 and 1985. All of the planned release sites were situated near the Buffalo River. This project, too, showed great hope, as the herds increased. In fact, the elk are still prospering, as their numbers are presently estimated at around 450.
Their range covers approximately 315,000 acres. But a large tract of land is far from all that is necessary for these large creatures to survive. That in mind, federal state and private entities have dedicated many man hours and dollars to proper land management.
The National Park Service has created and is maintaining more than 95,000 acres of elk-friendly habitat alongside the Buffalo River. The AGFC and Rocky Mountain Elk Foundation teamed up in 1993, and have worked on extensive habitat improvement. The groups are still focused on the project and future projects have already been planned.
Arkansas’ elk herd continues to slowly expand toward the mouth of the Buffalo River. However, according to the AGFC, suitable habitat on the lower portion of the river is limited.
I suppose there have been those who were against the reintroduction of elk into Arkansas since the project first began. And I suspect there are still those sharing the same sentiments. They certainly have a right to feel as they choose. And who knows, some of their reasons might be valid.
I even find myself questioning their decision to release nonnative critters into the forest, and wondering if these elk herds are responsible for the recent findings of chronic wasting disease in the local deer herds in sections of the state.
However, my thoughts are nothing more than thoughts and have not been proven. And to be honest, I personally find the experience of seeing these beautiful creatures going about their everyday rituals in their natural setting exciting.
I can still recall my first experience of seeing elk in Arkansas. I have since returned time and time again, and have seldom made the journey to this section of the state without seeing them feeding within sight of the road. In fact, there’s one section of Highway 43, referred to as Boxley Valley, where folks travel from abroad to see elk freely roam.
The drive to Boxley Valley is an experience within itself. From Hot Springs, I always travel north on scenic Highway 7. The drive along this section of highway leads over White Oak Mountain prior to crossing the South Fourche Lafave River and making its way through the quaint Hollis community.
Winding over Cove Mountain and over a bridge that spans the Main Fourche River just downstream from where it pours from the Nimrod Dam, the highway meanders through a few more hills before entering the River Valley section of the state just north of Ola.
From Ola, the route continues in a northward direction through Dardanelle (a town which was mentioned in the iconic western “True Grit” starring John Wayne). From Dardanelle, the route makes its way through the outskirts of Russellville and alongside the Arkansas Tech Campus prior to leading to where we access Interstate 40 and head west.
The stretch along I-40 is the only section of the journey that I find boring. But one must travel via interstate for only 17 miles prior to taking Exit 64 toward Highway 64 and heading in the direction of Lamar.
After traveling about 5.5 miles, I take and remain on Highway 21 for about 48 miles, prior to taking Highway 43 north. The ride along Highway
21 is scenic and leads into the heart of the Ozarks. This stretch of highway is equally as winding and hilly as is Highway 7, if not more so. But it is also as scenic and runs close to some very popular Ozark outdoor destinations.
The premier elk watching location throughout the entire state of Arkansas is only a few miles beyond the Highway
43 intersection, In fact, I have seen elk in close proximity of the intersection several times throughout the years.
Elk are apt to be seen browsing in just about any field along this short stretch of highway. However, there are a couple of fields where they notoriously gather in numbers. The most popular field is privately owned and is located on the right-hand side of the road.
I have seen as many as 30 or 40 elk in a heard near this fella’s barn during previous early morning drives. Although this is one of the most likely spots to see these large cervids, one must bear in mind that they are browsing on private property. I have actually talked with this landowner before. And although he doesn’t seem to mind folks stopping and watching the elk from the road’s edge, he made it abundantly clear that no one is welcome to cross his property line.
There’s yet another spot, a mile or so farther down the road, where the elk also seem to gather in numbers. And it just so happens that this particular spot was designed specifically with elk watching in mind. This, too, is a very popular stopping point and is only a hop, skip and jump to the banks of the Buffalo River.
Those who travel to the Boxley Valley area will likely be focused on seeing these pristine and huge creatures first hand. However, be sure and dedicate a little time to checking out the Boxley Valley Mill Pond, which is located on the highway’s edge.
One is apt to see ducks, herons, kingfishers and other native water-loving birds frequenting the swampy impoundment. But there is more. Be sure and keep an eye out for trumpeter swans that call the pond home. And it’s not uncommon to see bald eagles perched on limbs and soaring overhead during the winter months.
The change of seasons is upon us. It’s that magical time of the year when the elk partake upon their annual mating rituals. It’s when waterfowl and eagles begin their winter migration into the state. The leaves will be changing soon, and I can’t think of a better time and setting to experience a quaint community in the Ozarks referred to as Boxley Valley.