Civil War history at Pea Ridge
Outdoor writer and photographer Corbet Deary is featured regularly in The Sentinel-Record. Today, Deary writes about Pea Ridge National Military Park.
Most of us paint a mental picture of festivities and fellowshipping with friends and family when Christmas is mentioned. There was a time in Arkansas’ history, however, when it was likely hard to focus on the season.
The entire country was in upheaval from 1861 through 1865, as American citizens were engulfed in the Civil War. Arkansas had its fair share of involvement in this conflict. In fact, it was Christmas Day in 1861 when the Pea Ridge campaign began.
One of the federal government’s main objectives, during the initial year of the war, was to keep Missouri in the Union. The Battle of Wilson’s Creek resulted near Springfield, Mo., in August 1861. But the need to maintain control over our neighboring state was also a portion of the reason for the Battle of Pea Ridge, in the Boston Mountains of Arkansas, which came to fruition in March 1862.
The Confederate troops were 16,000 strong and headed north, in the direction of Missouri, with intentions of eventually reaching and capturing St. Louis. The Federals had other intentions, however, as 10,500 of their men were dug in where their adversaries would travel close to northwestern Arkansas’ Little Sugar Creek. This small yet historically significant tributary was located near Elkhorn Tavern, which was situated on the Pea Ridge Plateau.
The battle began on March 7 and was intense. And when the smoke had cleared on the following day, the Battle of Pea Ridge was concluded. And Missouri remained in the Union throughout the remainder of the war. The state did, however, remain politically neutral and managed to support both sides with men and supplies.
Although most indications of the previous battle dwindled with time, there are still a few telltale signs reminding us of the Battle of Pea Ridge. And despite time, the campaign remained of historical significance. That in mind, the National Park Service designated and maintains the 4,300-acre battlefield in honor of those who fought and died on the premises.
My wife, Sandy, and I recently stopped by Pea Ridge National Military Park and were not disappointed in any form or fashion. We initially arrived with intentions of riding our bikes along the 6-mile paved road cutting its way through the facility.
To say the ride was anything less than enjoyable would prove an understatement, as the route made a long ascent, providing us with ample exercise and wonderful scenery. But the road also beckoned our attention in yet another sense.
The route made its way alongside several interpretive signs sharing interesting facts about the aforementioned battle. Some of the stations overlooked large fields, while others were situated within sight of structures, cannons and monuments.
I was focused on maneuvering my bike up the long grade without stopping during the ride. But once the ride was behind us, the inquisitive side of me kicked in. In turn, Sandy and I eagerly loaded our bikes on the rack and embarked upon a much less strenuous journey along the road we had just traveled via our SUV.
Our first stop focused on the Trail of Tears, as shallow depressions in the soil were the remnants of the original Telegraph Road, which thousands of Cherokee and other American Indians traveled during the winter of 1838-39, when they were forced to move from their homelands.
The route was also traveled by the Butterfield Overland stage during the mid-1800s and was utilized by both the Union and Confederate armies during the Battle of Pea Ridge.
Our second stop divulged the site of Brig. Gen. Samuel R. Curtis’ headquarters. According to information posted by the National Park Service, the Union Commander believed a Confederate attack would transpire about 2 miles south of and would orchestrate the movements of his army from this location.
The third interpretive station shared a story of Leetown, a small village that served as a hospital and treatment center for the wounded of both sides. Although there was no evidence of the site, it was heartwarming to know that there were no enemies when it came to caring for the wounded.
The fourth interpretive station overlooking the Leetown Battlefield was a reminder that the mindset was a great deal different in the midst of battle. According to information posted at the facility, two Confederate generals met their demise near the field’s north boundary.
Interpretive station number five shared an interesting tidbit of information pertaining to the Cherokee tribe. Two Cherokee regiments, about 1,000 strong, fought for the Confederate Army at Pea Ridge, The post continued by explaining, “Pea Ridge was the only major Civil War Battle in which Indian Troops participated.”
From the West Overlook, at station six, one could see the Boston Mountains in the southern horizon. And Bentonville was 14 miles to the west and was from where the Confederates advanced to Pea Ridge.
The seventh interpretive station lent to a view in an eastward direction, providing the best perspective of the battlefield in the middle of the park. Interpretive panels, under the cover of the shelter, gave a good account of the fighting that transpired in the distant fields below.
I was most intrigued with the Elkhorn Tavern, at station 8, during my ride, as a large structure stood within sight of the road. Although the original structure burned in 1863, a replica has since been built in its place.
The original structure served travelers prior to the Civil War and had many uses during the conflict. The tavern was used as a Union supply base prior to being captured by the Confederates when it became a field hospital for treating soldiers representing both sides. The structure was eventually re-secured by the Union Army and was utilized as their telegraph station.
The ninth interpretive station shared a story of how the Confederates charged across the field as darkness neared in an attempt to “smash the regrouped Union troops.” But their adversaries took a strong stand, forcing the Confederates back into the woods.
The following station was located from where the Union Army deployed on the final morning of the conflict. Their might of power was too strong for the Confederates to hold off. In turn, they withdrew from the tavern area.
The 11th and final interpretive station was within sight of the blufflines where weathered and faint federal trenches still exist just above Little Sugar Creek arriving back at the Visitor Center, I was certain that we would return to the Pea Ridge battlefield again. It was a destination where we could enjoy yet another bike ride in the beauty of the Ozarks, while acquiring even more interesting facts about a piece of property that was bubbling with a rich history.
To get to Pea Ridge National Military Park from Interstate 49 north, near Fayetteville, take Exit 67 toward the Fayetteville business district/U.S. 71 B. Go three-tenths of a mile and continue onto I-49 north. Travel 19 miles and take Exit 86 for US 62/AR 102 toward Bentonville/Rogers. Go two-tenths of a mile and take a right onto U.S. 62 east/ SE 14th Street. Go 11 miles and turn left. Travel a half mile and take a left onto Military Park Road. Travel 450 feet to the destination.