The Sentinel-Record

Why do we mow grass?

- Jimmy Driggers

During the spring and summer months, the average American spends two hours per week on lawn and garden care. While mowing is the most time-consuming lawn maintenanc­e practice, it is not without its merits. The primary purpose of mowing a lawn is to improve its appearance. Proper mowing technique, equipment, frequency and height of cut will improve the quality of a lawn while also increasing the health of the turfgrass plants and decreasing weeds.

Mowing is a destructiv­e practice because it reduces the amount of leaf tissue available for the production of energy. The general response to mowing is for the plant to produce more leaf tissue to replace what is lost. If too much leaf tissue is removed in any one mowing, plants will respond by redirectin­g energy away from valuable roots to producing new leaves. Additional­ly, turfgrass cannot efficientl­y capture nutrients and produce energy when mown too low. Therefore, proper mowing is a key ingredient to a successful, healthy lawn.

Mow frequently. Mow as often as needed to never remove more than one-third of the leaf blade in a single mowing. In other words, if your mower is set at 3 inches, mow before your lawn reaches 4.5 inches high.

Removing more than one-third of the leaf blade in a single mowing is detrimenta­l to plant health. Your mowing frequency will vary greatly based upon the turfgrass species, time of year and rainfall, but a typical frequency is one to two times per week during the growing season. Be sure to time your mowings properly with any intended herbicide applicatio­ns. Mowing too soon before or after a herbicide applicatio­n can increase turfgrass sensitivit­y or reduce weed control.

In general, mowing turf at higher mowing heights helps increase overall plant health and reduce weed pressure. Tall fescue and St. Augustine-grass perform best at mowing heights of approximat­ely 3 inches. Bermudagra­ss and zoysiagras­s perform well at lower mowing heights. They can be mown at a height of 1 to 2 inches with a rotary mower or 0.5 to 1 inch with a reel mower. Within species, some cultivars tolerate lower mowing more than others. In general, finer-bladed cultivars and species tolerate lower mowing heights. Higher mowing heights may help turfgrasse­s in shady or partially shaded areas of your lawn.

Sharpen blades. Sharply-cut leaf blades increase turf health by improving recovery, decreasing water loss and increasing photosynth­esis. Lawns mown with a dull mower blade have poor aesthetics, heal more slowly and have greater water loss. Sharpen mower blades at least twice a year. Replacemen­t blades are expensive, so it may be useful to keep a second blade sharpened and available to switch out as the first blade becomes dull. Both blades can then be sharpened after the turfgrass has gone dormant.

Scalping occurs when more than one-third of the leaf blade is removed and the stem is left remaining. Scalping not only decreases the aesthetic appearance of the lawn but also decreases the health of the plant. Mow frequently at higher mowing heights to avoid scalping. A reel mower will reduce the likelihood of scalping if lower mowing heights are preferred. Additional­ly, you can alternate the mowing pattern each time you mow to prevent grain and reduce the risk of scalping. Some species like bermudagra­ss are more prone to scalping than zoysiagras­s or tall fescue.

Don’t mow wet turf. Lawns are best mown when the turf is dry. Clippings are more easily distribute­d on a dry lawn because they don’t bunch up or clog mowers. Disease organisms are more easily spread in wet turf, and fresh-cut leaf blades offer a point of entry for infection. Wet turf is more easily torn from the ground during mowing by equipment when the soil is wet. Lastly, it is safer to mow when the lawn is dry because there is less risk of slipping and being injured by the mower.

If you have questions give me a call at 501-623-6841 or come by our office at 236 Woodbine.

4-H Club informatio­n

For informatio­n about Garland County 4-H Club membership or program benefits, see Linda Bates at the Garland County Cooperativ­e Extension Service office at 236 Woodbine, call 501-623-6841, or email lbates@uaex.edu. Additional informatio­n is available at http://www.uaex.edu/garland.

Master Gardener informatio­n

If you have an interest in gardening, you may want to apply to become a Master Gardener. You may obtain an applicatio­n by calling our office to have one emailed to you, or by picking one up at the Extension office. You’re welcome to attend the monthly Master Gardener meeting which is held on the third Thursday of each month, 12:30 p.m. at the Elks Lodge, 132 Abbott Place. The meetings are open to the public and guests are always welcome. Call the Extension office at 623-6841 for more informatio­n.

EHC informatio­n

Are you interested in joining an existing Extension Homemakers Club? EHC is the largest volunteer organizati­on in the state. For informatio­n on EHC, call 623-6841 or email Alison Crane at acrane@ uaex.edu. Follow Alison on Facebook @garlandEGF and @Garland FCS, and EHC on Facebook @GarlandCou­ntyEHC.

 ?? Submitted photo ?? The Bridge House of Hot Springs congratula­tes the newest graduates of duplicate bridge, from left, Howard Lee Kilby, Stacy Hudgens, Saundra Mallory, Gail Frasier and George Rice. A 10-week summer class will begin Friday, July 19, from 10-11:30 a.m. The cost is $50, plus $10 for the book. Call the instructor, Teri LaBove, at 501-984-1384 to sign up or for more informatio­n. Come with or without a partner.
Submitted photo The Bridge House of Hot Springs congratula­tes the newest graduates of duplicate bridge, from left, Howard Lee Kilby, Stacy Hudgens, Saundra Mallory, Gail Frasier and George Rice. A 10-week summer class will begin Friday, July 19, from 10-11:30 a.m. The cost is $50, plus $10 for the book. Call the instructor, Teri LaBove, at 501-984-1384 to sign up or for more informatio­n. Come with or without a partner.
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