Building up a floor, and fixing leaks
Question #1
Hi, Robert. I have a room that you step down into, and I’d like to build it up. It’s about a 6-inch drop but I want this raised and done properly so the floor of my home will be all one level and there won’t be any issues with putting in new flooring.
What are the parameters that I need to follow in order to do this correctly, and do I need to pull permits? Konrad W.
Answer #1
Konrad, with a 6-inch drop, you are likely to be able to use a two-by-six with a piece of 5/8-inch ply and end up at the right height. You won’t need permits; just be sure to follow proper building guidelines.
Of course, the true measurement of a 2-by-6 is less than 6 inches, so between that and your plywood you will be very close. Most sub-floors are not perfectly level in all areas, so where you are butting up against the current raised areas you may have to either shim or shave for a perfect match.
Do yourself a favor and lay it out first and use a level. If you’re a handy guy, which it sounds like you are, you’ll know what adjustments you’ll need to make. You should be very close, if not exact, without any additional work.
The easiest and most efficient way to accomplish this is going to be to make a frame with the two-by-six joists. Nail this to the walls where you can using #16 nails; this will be the first security that this will not move.
Now install additional joists at 16 inch on center, all the way across the room, and use the blocking technique where applicable. Based on the photos that you provided, you should only need this on the one end closest to the raised side.
Cut out and dry fit all of your plywood pieces, making sure that you’ve cut accurately and your fit is snug. Mark your ply if necessary, so you’ll know exactly where your joists are below, for when it comes time to secure the ply.
Now lift each piece and thoroughly apply construction adhesive to each and every joist piece. This will be one form of a guarantee that this will never move and cause a noisy subfloor below your finished floor.
Once adhesive is down and ply back in place, begin by using deck screws and securing the plywood every 8 inches on the perimeter and every 12 inches in the field.
Please don’t make the mistake of only nailing; you have a chance that over time those nails will back themselves out and start making a noisy floor. With the deck screws, they’ll be forever in place with no opportunity to back out. Well worth taking the time to screw it down versus just nailing.
I see in the pictures that you have windows in this room. Once your flooring is down you’ll need to measure the height of the base of your windows from the floor. You need a minimum of 18 inches for code, and if it is less than that you’ll need to change to tempered glass.
Be sure to follow this guideline, as it’s in place for very specific safety reasons. Good luck – this looks like a fun project.
Question #2
I’m a building manager for one of the high-rises down in the valley. We recently purchased large metal pods that we would like to put plants into, and I’m told that they are not water proof, but the architect designed these so it is what we’ll use.
We want to make them water-proof, but we aren’t sure what the most durable method is for a planter. Can you help with this? I know you are a master water proofer so I trust your guidance. Richard L.
Answer #2
Richard, my recommendation would be for you to go to Linex, which is a duraliner. Especially on metal it is harder to use some of the poly materials that you’ll see in the specialty stores, but this will work perfectly.
This is the same company that sprays truck bed liners that are durable and waterproof. Slightly pricier than that urethane-type water-proofing product, but in this application it will be your best bet. If you can get your containers to their location, it will save you costs because to have them out to your location is pretty pricey.
This is absolutely your answer; I wouldn’t even attempt the other products because you’ll be wasting your time and man hours and will ultimately have to redo your planters.
Good luck and write in if you need specific locations that I’ve used.
Question #3
I’m an owner in a highrise condo that is a mixed use building. We have recently had a rash of leaks throughout our community on both the residential and commercial areas. Our water is being metered on the cold and hot side with water meters.
This question is multifold; you’ll understand as you look at the photos that I’ve submitted. Things are not adding up and I need your guidance, please.
Is there a difference between a hot and a cold meter? What should the building temperature be on the hot water side?
We keep getting seals that are going bad throughout and no one can give me the answers that I need. Please advise, if you can, which direction I can go on this, as we are using up valuable resources chasing these leaks. There has to be an answer. John G.
Answer #3
John, yes, absolutely there is a difference between the two meters. They are each designed for their job, i.e. cold for cold, and hot for hot. The hot meters have variable heat settings and limitations, meaning they are designed for specific maximum temperatures only.
On the residential level, the UPC (Uniform Plumbing Code) says that the maximum water temperature should not exceed 140 degrees. No higher than that. According to this photo that you sent to me, your meter is reading 159 degrees. If you take a good look at the meter nomenclature, it states that your hot water meter is rated at 140 degrees only.
With the photo showing your temperature at 159, there is your answer. These seals are prematurely going out due to excess heat and causing these leaks and floods throughout the high-rise building. These guidelines are listed to ensure that these issues don’t happen; they are to be followed.
You need to lower the temperature on your boiler to 140 degrees or less, which by code is what you should do. The second thing you can do is to upgrade your meters as you replace them to higher-temperature-rated meters for your hot water side.
If you follow all of the ratings, you’ll save yourself tons of money now and in the future. This can be an insurance nightmare if you make a claim and the adjuster sees that the ratings were not followed. In this case, you’ll own the full cost.
I’d make these corrections immediately, notify all hands involved and get to the bottom of how this happened. I wish you good luck with this.
Robert Lamoureux has 38 years of experience as a general contractor, with separate licenses in electrical and plumbing contracting. He owns IMS Construction Inc. in Valencia. His opinions are his own, not necessarily those of The Signal. Opinions expressed in this column are not meant to replace the recommendations of a qualified contractor after that contractor has made a thorough visual inspection. Email questions to Robert at robert@imsconstruction.com.