The Signal

The King of Varietals

- By Carl Kanowsky

Last column, I wrote about what a focused wine tasting offers, discussing particular­ly the opportunit­y to discover the value of aged wines.

Now let’s talk about some of the magnificen­t wine I sampled at wine LA’s Stars of Cabernet.

Bottle prices ranged from $18 to $250. The wine came from South America, California and France. The majority hailed from Napa.

Spottswood­e offered one of my favorites, the 2014 Spottswood­e Estate Cabernet Sauvignon from St. Helena. Intense black fruit with a hint of pepper with an aftertaste that lasted 40 seconds (no, I did not time it – it just seemed limitless). At over $150/ bottle, it’s not a week night pour. But celebratin­g a milestone birthday or any wedding anniversar­y or simply because life is treating you well or life is messed up and you need a boost, this wine fits the bill. Spottswood­e also had a tasty 2016 Sauvignon Blanc that had only 15 percent new oak and was fairly priced at $38. But watch for it since they only made 3500 cases.

Premium Cab doesn’t come just from Bordeaux or California. A great alternativ­e is Chile, whose representa­tive at the tasting was Almaviva. As they described themselves, “Almaviva is a château concept winery, establishe­d by Baron Philippe de Rothschild and Viña Concha y Toro. One Bordeaux blend is released annually, offering Chilean terroir interlaced with French winemaking tradition.” T’s quite a partnershi­p! Their 2013 Bordeaux Blend, Puente Alto, Maipo Valley could still use five years but was quite tasty with great body and texture. (You notice how some of these wine descriptio­ns sound almost pornograph­ic? Of course, fine wines are a treat for several of the senses.)

La Sirena is another fine example of what Napa offers. Of course, once you learn that Heidi Barrett creates these gems, you shake your head in understand­ing. You see, she had another gig before this at that wanna-be winery, Screaming Eagle. Never heard of Screaming Eagle? Suffice it to say that each vintage sells for over $2,000 (yes, two thousand dollars!) per bottle if you can find it. My wait time to graduate to the mailing list where I can buy some exceeds a decade. But La Sirena provides a less cash-intensive preview of the Eagle might be. Its 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon delighted with a great bouquet of forest floor and inviting spices. A fun bottling is the 2013 Pirate Treasu Red, which comes in its unique bottle, fashioned after what you might imagine Black Beard enjoyed while roaming the seven Seas.

Finally, it’s good to see other members of my profession (in the daylight hours, I’m an attorney) succeed outside of the courtroom. Paul Woolls opened O’Shaughness­y Estate Winery as an alternativ­e to the office and has nailed it. His 2014 Mount Veeder Cab shined at the tasting. Featuring a great bouquet, it combines tastes of chocolate and black fruit seamlessly. Even though it is only three years old, it’s very approachab­le now.

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