Spalling issues and waterproofing

Question No. 1

We have a parking garage where we all park underneath the building.

A huge chunk of concrete fell onto a brand new car and in the pictures you can see this thing is bigger than a basketball and has destroyed the hood and windshield of the car.

We suspect that water has something to do with it because there are always leaks, but we don’t understand how water can make concrete break, there is always water on concrete.

We are currently waiting for an engineer to come out but want a bit of information so we are knowledgeable.

We are a BOD of four women and one man, and the gentleman is an accountant and not skilled in any construction, nor are any of us women.

We don’t want to be taken advantage of, so we need your guidance, please.

— Liz R.

Answer No. 1

Liz, This is a classic situation of what is called “spalling.” Water gets in through the podium slab (this is the concrete “roof” of your garage) which has something above or adjacent to it, that is allowing water intrusion.

Perhaps a planter, the top decking has failed, there are many possibilities of where the water comes from but the reason for concrete spalling here is that the water has gotten into the podium slab and has rotted the iron within.

This doesn’t happen overnight, this is a process of years.

That tells me, as does the picture where I see a drip pan installed, that leaking has been known but the source not determined and repaired.

This is exactly what happens and it, ultimately, becomes a costly venture to repair properly.

You’ll see that just the engineer will cost, and then once his report and recommendations are given, you’ll submit that to a contractor for repairs who will then provide you with what is likely to be significant costs to repair this problem.

It is imperative that you get this done. The danger grows, and the liability is significant when you have falling objects.

I recommend that this area and any other areas that may be showing signs of spalling, be taped off and access denied, until engineering has been done to this garage.

I see this nearly weekly, where BODs choose to not repair the source of leaking to these areas, and, ultimately, the costs become extraordinary when the iron within rusts and expands, it starts blowing the concrete apart as is happening here.

Be diligent with this Liz, and get it fixed sooner rather than later.

Once this is a structural issue as this seems to be, danger lurks not far behind. Good luck.

Question No. 2

I live in Studio City and visit my kids on the weekend in Santa Clarita, and I am able to see your column sometimes.

I’m glad that you do this.

I’m the treasurer on the BOD, so I am watchful over the money for our association.

We are having our courtyard waterproofed and we have some different options to put stone or bricks on it, or some texture thing like you’d see on a ceiling.

One company tells us that around the entire courtyard, we need to break out about 10-12 inches of stucco and add some sort of metal piece, then repair the stucco in order for this waterproofing to be effective.

It seems excessive to me, and I am unsure if this is something really necessary or if we would be taken advantage of, if we agreed to do this.

Are you able to help us understand this?

Also, with regard to the finish, can you suggest what works best, if the finish makes a difference other than with how it looks?

— Betty W.

Answer No. 2

Betty, I recommend the knock down texture, which is the description you used regarding the ceiling.

They can put different patterns in with this texture, and it will look good.

If you put down a brick or similar type product and it incurs damage, you are looking at a struggle to match them in the future, as these products change and dye lots are different, sometimes going out of production all together.

If you do go this route, be sure to log the manufacturer’s name and color codes, for this situation.

With the knock down finish system, you can actually make repairs to an area that will be virtually undetectable.

The stucco removal question is a great one, and if your contractor is suggesting this I’d go with this guy, he’s got it straight.

To properly seal this area you do need to open that stucco and add a wall-to-deck flashing and integrate this with the deck waterproofing.

This is the only way to properly integrate the building with the waterproofing, and make a proper seal so that the water will not have an opportunity to seep into the building, it will be

directed to your area drains.

This guy knows what he’s talking about and anyone willing to “waterproof” your decking area without doing this, is only going to create water intrusion issues for you.

Be sure that any contractor you use, you are verifying that they are licensed and insured and that they write exactly what they’re doing on their bid, before you sign.

Only pay the balance after the work is completed, be sure they’re doing it right. Good luck.