Reducing a water bill and traffic
Question No.1
Hey Robert,
About eight months ago you recommended that I change out my pressure reducing valve at the front of my house because I was having problems with the water pressure inside.
It’s been working great since then up until this weekend; then, all of a sudden the pressure is back down to nothing.
This device is only 8 months old, what could be going on?
Answer No. 1
Steve Steve,
Remove this PRV and take it back to where you purchased it, occasionally the PRVs will go bad like this. Replace it with new, adjust it and you’ll be good to go.
This can happen, sometimes the rubber diaphragm on the inside may have sprung a leak causing it not to hold the pressure.
Remember when I guided you the first time, we talked about not exceeding 70 lbs of pressure. Ideally, if you set it at 60 lbs you will have enough pressure and volume going into your home.
The difference of 10 pounds will save on the water bill and you won’t see or feel the loss of pressure between the 60 lbs and the 70 lbs.
If you still have issues after replacing this, reach out to me.
This is the first step and likely the answer, good luck to you.
Question No. 2
Robert,
My name is George M., I’m a board of directors member here in Santa Clarita and we are in the discussion stages of blocking off our HOA due to high traffic and a multitude of other reasons.
We are hearing many different opinions and it’s already created chaos.
What is our best approach to tackling this, as far as finding out if we can even do such a thing? George M.
Answer No. 2
George,
The first thing is to determine if the HOA actually owns the streets, that’s number one.
If they are city streets and not private HOA streets, it cannot be done.
Once you find out that the HOA does own the streets, you’ll want to do a sketch of the idea you have and then head straight to the Fire Department.
Present this idea to the Fire Department first, and be sure that they are in agreement, that you meet all of the necessary criteria for this.
Be sure to get the initial approval in writing, showing your approach clearly so you have this documented.
You’ll next head to the city’s Building Department and present this also. For this step you’ll also need to have some electrical plans drawn up unless you’re going solar.
You’ll want to reach out to a gate contractor, and find out if your idea will work and get your proposals.
They can also bid the electrical end, though they may sub out this part of the job.
This could end upbeing a small fortune, depending on the availability of electrical in the immediate area of where you’d like to have gates installed.
If you need a referral for a quality gate contractor, let me know.
Best to haveall of these ducks in order prior to your visits, but I’d for sure start with the Fire Department beforeanything else, or you may be wasting valuable time.
Question No. 3
Hi Robert,
I live in Canyon Country and want to put a balcony outside of my master, though I don’t want to use posts.
I believe you described this once as cantilever, is that correct?
I know there are certain rules to using this approach and though I will have it engineered and pull permits, I’d like to start with you and see if I can get ahead on the planning part of this.
I’m looking to go about 5 feet outside, so how far in do I need to go?
Also, what do I need to do in order to find out if this is even feasible on my property? Oscar
Answer No. 3
Oscar,
First, I’d open up the ceiling below the area where you’re looking to install this.
Be sure that the existing joists are running in the direction towards the outside, where you’d like to install the balcony.
Yes there is a rule of thumb; but it definitely has to be engineered, so that all aspects are accounted for and the end result means that you have a safe area.
The rule of thumb is to double the distance.
So, if you are adding 5 feet then you’d go a full 10 feet inside, sistering that length.
Sistering is where you’ll either nail or bolt one joist to another, lengthwise.
The sistering method will be called out by the engineer, they’ll let you know how they want to see it secured.
He’ll also call out the specific measurements and then the building department will finalize authorization to move forward with the project.
Definitely check out the ceiling area of the room below, and be sure that the joist are running in the right direction, then at least you’ll know that you could move in this direction once engineered and permitted. Good luck to you.
Best of luck to you, Robert
Robert Lamoureux has 38 years of experience as a general contractor, with separate licenses in electrical and plumbing contracting. He owns IMS Construction Inc. in Valencia. His opinions are his own, not necessarily those of The Signal.
Opinions expressed in this column are not meant to replace the recommendations of a qualified contractor after that contractor has made a thorough visual inspection. Email questions to Robert at robert@imscons truction.com.