Hot tub considerations and tile installations

Question No. 1 Hello Robert,

We have an in-ground spa (jacuzzi) in our yard in Newhall with a water fountain feature above it. It was built in 1997, and we rarely use it, but we keep it well-maintained. The pumps and heater remain in good condition.

This year, we have seen the water level drop more than in the past, so that we’ve had to add water every couple of days even though we haven’t heated it. I thought it was due to evaporation because of the hot summer, but the water loss continues as the weather is cooling.

There is no evidence of leaks in the pipes or puddling around the area. Do you have any idea about what could be happening to the water?

Thanks for any insight you can offer.

— Jim

Answer No. 1 Jim,

Thank you for being a loyal Signal reader. I would make sure there are no cracks in the jacuzzi bottom or in the tile area of the jacuzzi, as well as the fountain you mentioned. If that all checks out, then It sounds like you may have an underground leak that is not manifesting itself on the surface through the plumbing, which is not unusual given that the lines are PVC.

What you need to do is find a swimming pool leak detection company that specialize in pool leaks. Do NOT hire a leak detection contractor that is not specialized in pools, they are often not skilled enough with the mechanics of pools to successfully troubleshoot.

The pool leak detection company will plug up all of the ports in the jacuzzi as well as the equipment area and pressurize the line with gas. Then they will use their sounding equipment to trace the source of the leak. Best of luck,

— Robert

Question No. 2 Hi Robert,

My husband wanted me to write to you to verify what product is put down prior to laying tile. We had a bad flood and need to replace the wood floor. We are opting to go with the wood-simulated tile so that, if another flood ever happens, we will be less likely to have to replace any flooring.

We know there is something to put down first because of a past article he read some years ago, saying that if you don’t put this down, the tile will likely crack over time. Are you able to clarify for us, please, so we can do this properly? The insurance company didn’t pay enough to have a contractor do the work so we are having to install it ourselves. We are pretty handy so we just need a little guidance on proper product, then we will take our time and do the install slowly.

The concrete is slightly cracked, we want you to know.

— Tina L.

Answer No. 2 Tina,

You’ll be able to do this if, like you said, you take your time and don’t rush the process. First, at a big box store, you can purchase a grinder with a V wheel. While there, purchase concrete filler and anti-fracture membrane, plus thin-set mortar. I

recommend the premix on this, it’ll save you time and headache though it is slightly more costly. Techs at the big box store will be able to help you.

Use the grinder to “chase” the cracks in the concrete, meaning you’re going to actually put the “V” into the crack and run it along, literally grinding into that crack at about ¼-inch depth.

Following, shop vac out the

debris and use a brush if necessary, to help relieve the crack of any debris. Be sure to get the crack as clean as possible, so that the next step will be successful.

Now, with the concrete filler, fill the crack to as level as possible. Don’t overdo it because you don’t want to have to deal with bumps. Allow this to dry completely, then with a small notch trowel, you’ll now need to lay the anti-fracture membrane and allow it to dry completely.

It’s time to lay the tile with the mortar, and be sure that you use the proper notch size on the trowel for the size tile you’re laying. The techs at the store can also help you with this selection.

Be sure you have a propersized level to work with. You will need to continually check for level in each direction as you go. Even the slightest change in thickness of mortar can throw off the level and, in the end, if there are variations you’ll see/ feel them on your floor and you won’t be happy.

That can also create trip/fall hazards so this will be an important part of your install process.

Once laid, dried and thoroughly cleaned, follow with a good tile sealer and allow to dry. I wouldn’t skip this process. You’ll be much happier if you seal the tile and grout, and follow with proper cleaning thereafter, so you don’t end up with grout staining.

It is a part of the process that takes time in the end, when you are ready to be done, tired of it all, but do take this step so you are ultimately happy in the end and the care and overall success is better.

Best of luck. — Robert

Robert Lamoureux has more than 40 years of experience as a general contractor, with separate licenses in electrical and plumbing contracting. He owns IMS Construction Inc. in Valencia. His opinions are his own, not necessarily those of The Signal. Opinions expressed in this column are not meant to replace the recommendations of a qualified contractor after that contractor has made a thorough visual inspection. Email questions to Robert at robert@imsconstruction.com.

Metro Creative/ For The Signal Self-installation can be done if you want to replace your wood with a tile simulation, contracting expert Robert Lamoureux writes, but it’s a process that must be done carefully and methodically.