Recipes that showcase acorn and butternut squash, two of the easiest-to-find beauties in the marketplace

Winter squashes come in a dazzling array of colors, from bright oranges to cool greens. Some are rounded, others fluted; some are skinny at the top and bulbed at the bottom. Whether smooth or bumpy, most share flesh that is mellow, generally with notes of sweetness. But few varieties are exactly the same in taste. Hard skin distinguishes them from their soft-skinned cousins, the summer squashes (such as zucchini). Winter squashes are harvested when fully mature, when their seeds have become woody and large, and their skin has toughened. Look for winter squashes that seem heavy for their size, an indication that there is more edible flesh. Generally, their thick rinds form a protective barrier so they can be stored at room temperature in a well-ventilated location for at least a month. Once cut, they need refrigeration. Here are recipes that showcase acorn and butternut squash, two of the easiest-to-find beauties in the marketplace:

Tamara’s Ratatouille

This isn’t a traditional ratatouille, the summertime dish that showcases zucchini, bell peppers and tomatoes. This hearty concoction is based on a dish created by cookbook author Yotam Ottolenghi’s friend, a mixture that utilizes parsnips, butternut squash and eggplant along with the usual suspects. Turn on some good music and prep all the vegetables before you get started. I like to serve it accompanied with a brown rice blend.

Yield: 4(generous) servings

INGREDIENTS

7tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided use 2small yellow onions, cut into 11⁄4-inch chunks 4garlic cloves, peeled, sliced

1⁄2 fresh green chili, thinly sliced, see cook’s notes 2small red bell peppers, cut into 11⁄4-inch dice

1⁄2 small butternut squash, peeled, cut into 11⁄4-inch chunks

1small parsnip, peeled, cut into 11⁄4-inch chunks

1 cup French green beans, trimmed, see cook’s notes 1medium zucchini, cut into 11⁄4-inch dice

1⁄2 large eggplant, peeled, cut into 11⁄4-inch chunks 1small baking potato, peeled, cut into 11⁄4-inch chunks 2medium tomatoes, peeled, chopped, see cook’s notes 1⁄2 tablespoon sugar

1tablespoon tomato paste, see cook’s notes

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1cup water

Garnish: Chopped fresh cilantro

Cook’s notes: I used a jalapeno chili that was very mild, so I included some of the seeds and veins. If using a Serrano chili, I would have removed the seeds and veins. I used “regular” Blue Lake green beans and snapped them into 1-inch lengths. Instead of fresh tomatoes, I used 1cup canned, diced tomatoes, partially drained. Dealing with leftover tomato paste can be easy. I keep it in an airtight, zipper-style plastic bag in the freezer; when I need some tomato paste I cut off a small portion and return the bag to the freezer. Some sources sell tomato paste in tubes, packaging that permits cooks to remove just the amount they need and return the tube to the refrigerator.

PROCEDURE

1. Pour 2⁄3 of oil into large, heavy, flameproof casserole or 4- to 6-quart pot and place on medium-high heat. Add onions and fry 5minutes, stirring occasionally. Stir in garlic, chili and red peppers; cook, stirring occasionally, another 5minutes. Add squash and parsnip and continue frying for 5minutes.

2. Using a slotted spoon, lift vegetables out of pot into medium bowl, leaving as much of the oil in the pot as possible. Top this up with remaining oil. Add green beans, zucchini and eggplant; fry 5minutes, stirring occasionally.

3. Preheat oven to 400degrees. Return contents of bowl to pot. Add potato, tomatoes, sugar, tomato paste and plenty of salt and pepper. Stir well, then pour in the water, or just enough water to half-cover the vegetables. Cover with lid and simmer gently for 30minutes. Taste and add more salt and pepper if needed.

4. Use slotted spoon to gently lift vegetables from pot into a large, deep roasting pan to make a layer about 11⁄4-inches deep. (I used a very large ovenproof skillet.) Pour liquid over vegetables and place in middle of preheated oven to cook for 30minutes. At this point all the vegetables should be very soft and most of the liquid evaporated. Garnish with chopped cilantro and serve. Source: Adapted from “Plenty” by Yotam Ottolenghi (Chronicle, $35)