The Sun (Lowell)

There is more to stouts than Guinness

There are several delicious options made in America

- By Jay r. Brooks The Mercury News

March is celebrated as “Stout Month” for one particular reason: St. Patrick’s Day, which celebrates the patron saint of Ireland, falls squarely in the middle of the month. And Guinness stout is unquestion­ably the beer most associated with Ireland.

But St. Patrick’s Day as we know it here in the U.S., with its parades, green beer, corned beef and cabbage and “Kiss Me, I’m Irish” Tshirts, is largely an American invention. Well into the 20th century, the holiday was, for the most part, a quiet, religious affair in Ireland — and until the mid1960s, all the bars in Ireland were closed on St. Patrick’s Day, since most people were home with their families.

Historical­ly, Irish immigrants faced discrimina­tion and persecutio­n on these shores and looked to St. Patrick’s Day as a way to celebrate their shared heritage with revelry that began in what is now Florida in 1601. The first annual St. Patrick’s Day parade took place in Boston in 1737, followed by New York City’s parade in 1762, and more major cities following suit — understand­able since between 1820 and 1860, a third of the immigrants to the U.S. came from Ireland.

In recent, non-pandemic years,

Ireland’s celebratio­ns have come to resemble the American. The Irish city of Dublin hosts a four-day festival — as opposed to the California city of Dublin, where the festivitie­s usually last three. And other Irish cities join the fun with festivals, feasts and, as you’d expect, a fair amount of Guinness.

Guinness stout is the original Irish or dry stout, although other imports include Murphy’s Irish Stout and Beamish. But given that St. Patrick’s Day parties originated here, I’d argue you should pick up some American stouts for your own at-home festivitie­s.

Before the IPA craze, many breweries used to include a porter or stout in their portfolio, and there are still a few good ones to choose from, including some locally brewed versions of Irish-style or dry stout.

One of my favorites is North Coast’s Old No. 38 Stout, named for a now-retired engine from the California Western Railroad. You know it as the Skunk Train, which still steams through the redwoods from Fort Bragg to Willits. It’s a solid stout with great toasted malt and coffee notes.

Moylan’s Dragoons Dry Irish Stout uses malt and hops imported from the United Kingdom and commemorat­es General Stephen Moylan, an ancestor of the brewpub’s founder. Moylan was an Irish-born commander of the 4th Continenta­l Dragoons during the American Revolution­ary War.

There are, of course, other types of stouts, including American stout, which is hoppier than Irish versions. They’re a little easier to find and quite delicious, too. Three great examples of the style include

Deschutes’ Obsidian Stout, Sierra Nevada Stout and Marin Brewing’s San Quentin Breakout Stout.

There’s also a sweet stout or milk stout style, which leans on the sweeter side, as you might expect, with less burnt or bitter notes. It may remind you of coffee and cream or a sweetened espresso. Some good ones include Firestone Walker’s Nitro Merlin Milk Stout, Faction Brewing’s Grand Anomaly Milk Stout and Heretic’s Caramel Moo-chiato, a milk stout brewed with caramel and vanilla. Colorado’s Left Hand Milk Stout is a great choice, too.

For a particular­ly smooth brew, try an oatmeal stout. Oats are added to the malt build, which really smooths out the mouthfeel and makes them easy-drinking beers. Rogue’s Shakespear­e Oatmeal Stout is a good one, as is the UK’S Samuel Smith Oatmeal Stout. Marin County’s Iron Springs brews a great one called Sless’ Oatmeal Stout.

And if you want a stout that tastes more like s’mores by a campfire, you should definitely pick up High Water Brewing’s Campfire Stout.

Contact Jay R. Brooks at Brooksonbe­er@gmail.com.

 ?? Courtesy the MERCURY news ?? Guinness is an iconic st. Patrick's day choice, but american-made stouts are an excellent pick for athome celebratio­ns this year.
Courtesy the MERCURY news Guinness is an iconic st. Patrick's day choice, but american-made stouts are an excellent pick for athome celebratio­ns this year.

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