The Taos News - Dining Out : 2019-12-05

Front Page : 139 : 64

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SWEET AND SPICY DONABE ASIAN KITCHEN PRESENTS SOME OF THE WORLD’S OLDEST CUISINE IN ONE OF TAOS’ OLDEST BUILDINGS BY CINDY BROWN | PHOTOGRAPH­Y BY MORGAN TIMMS If you are looking for an elegant and delicious way to warm up, stop by Donabe Asian Kitchen in downtown Taos on Paseo del Pueblo Norte next to the Taos Inn. The curries and other delights are spicy and sweet enough to heat up the body and soul on a cold winter night. Located in an historic abode, Donabe is one of the newest additions to the Taos restaurant scene, taking Asian cuisine to a new level of freshness and sophistica­tion. Why Donabe? The word means earthenwar­e pot in Japanese. Donabe chef and managing partner Marshall Thompson founded Marshall’s Great Noodle Stand at the John Dunn House Shops 11 years ago. He has carried favorites from the noodle stand into the new brick and mortar restaurant and expanded into new types of cuisine. “We were looking at the style of food we wanted to do, and all three partners, including Chris Bogden and James Gerken, picked up on the interest in hot pot meals. At our noodle stand, we did more Thai-type stir fries, but at the restaurant, we are focused on Japanese/korean. We rely on local potters from Paseo Pottery to provide us with beautiful pots that enhance the beauty of the food.” Donabe Donabe is committed to using every local resource possible, including pottery. Because some of their authentic food ingredient­s come from far away, like the rice noodles from Thailand, the restaurant owners are always looking for ways to offset their carbon footprint. Cooking in earthenwar­e pots connects the restaurant to the history of local food. Thompson explains that ceramics have always been important here as a tool of cooking. Historical approaches are appropriat­e as Donabe is located in one of the oldest surviving buildings in Taos. It was built by Arthur Manby, a notorious figure in Taos’s history of the late 1800s who met a gruesome end. “There might be a ghost floating around,” says Thompson. “Some of the staff have noticed things that seem unexplaina­ble.” 64 DINING OUT WINTER/SPRING 2020

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