The Taos News

Enjoy an old-fashioned spaghetti night

- Lucy Herrman LUCY HERRMAN

When I was growing up on the southwest side of Chicago, we ate spaghetti once a week, and so did everyone I knew, no matter what their ethnic background. Spaghetti Night was much anticipate­d all over the neighborho­od. And this was one family dinner you definitely did not want to miss! Many a schoolyard argument erupted over whose mother made the best sauce.

Old-fashioned spaghetti sauce began with a slight nod to its Italian roots. But home cooks have put their own spin on spaghetti sauce for decades, based on what they had available and the particular tastes of their families. Spaghetti sauce was a nutritious, filling dish — easy to prepare and delicious to eat. For families on a budget, spaghetti sauce was easy to stretch to feed more people. If you had finicky eaters, spaghetti sauce was an excellent place to hide finely chopped vegetables, and nobody ever noticed or complained. And any way you cooked it, the comfort food of my youth was satisfying and delicious!

In its simplest form, old-fashioned spaghetti sauce can be made with just a few basic ingredient­s. In college, when I only had a dollar to spend, I made a filling dinner for myself and two friends with just a half pound of ground beef, an onion, a green pepper and a can of tomato paste. I cooked up an 8 ounce box of spaghetti while waiting for the sauce to simmer,

and I had dinner on the table in just 45 minutes, with my college friends savoring every bite. This easy recipe became a staple for many dinners to come.

Of course, I had my own favorite version — my mother’s “Greek Spaghetti.” She braised chunks of beef with garlic and a rich tomato sauce. Flavorful and delicate, her sauce was a world apart from the stuff served in diners. My whole family still adores it.

But today, I offer up my motherin-law’s recipe, which classicall­y fits the mold of American spaghetti sauce. My husband often requests this version, and I happily comply. His mother’s sauce is his favorite, and it has become our family’s favorite, too. In its most basic form, it is a thick and meaty tomato sauce with onions and bell peppers. My mother-in-law’s secret ingredient is a teaspoon of curry powder, a trick she learned from her mother. And while it does not seem that a teaspoon of curry could do anything dramatic, it gives our sauce a marvelous, unidentifi­able savory accent that makes it taste just right.

I also love this sauce because expanding on it is not only suggested in the recipe, but encouraged. You can create a hearty masterpiec­e all your own. Chop up mushrooms and a zucchini or two. Dice up celery and carrots, and add a can of diced tomatoes and their juices. Pour in a cup of leftover red wine. For a New Mexican twist, throw in some chopped green chile.

After some initial sautéing, cooking this sauce gets really easy. Bring to a boil and then reduce the heat to a simmer for a couple of hours while you get on with your life. Simply stir once in awhile. A long slow simmer develops the flavors and creates an irresistib­ly robust sauce. You will know it is done when the sauce is thick and rich and dark in color. Serve right away. Or, if made early in the day, leave it on the stove and heat it up again before dinner. And you can even make it the day before — this is one recipe that improves the next day.

Nowadays, of course, we are not limited to mere spaghetti or macaroni, although those shapes are still terrific. But I prefer to cook up a bite-size pasta like penne or ziti to capture more of the thick flavorful sauce in every mouthful. I like to scoop generous servings of pasta into shallow bowls, and top with a good ladle-full of the meaty sauce. Be sure to serve some good crusty bread on the side. And if you have any sauce remaining, freeze leftovers in quart-size containers for up to two months.

Although topping with parmesan cheese is traditiona­l, my

Greek family usually crumbled feta cheese on our pasta. You can try goat cheese, grated gruyere, or shredded queso cotija. Any way you go is the right way!

Old-fashioned spaghetti sauce is versatile and delicious. And while you may have a family favorite recipe of your own, you might give my mother-in-law’s recipe a try. Feel free to experiment and add your own touches. Preparing it can be a family affair — involve the kids so they have a vested interest in the result. Great for every day, and good enough to serve to company. Chances are you will want to make a double batch to ensure a delicious night of leftovers for your family later in the week.

After all, who can say no to another spaghetti night!

Buon appetito!

 ??  ?? My mother-in-law’s secret ingredient is a teaspoon of curry powder, a trick she learned from her mother. And while it does not seem that a teaspoon of curry could do anything dramatic, it gives our sauce a marvelous, unidentifi­able savory accent that makes it taste just right.
My mother-in-law’s secret ingredient is a teaspoon of curry powder, a trick she learned from her mother. And while it does not seem that a teaspoon of curry could do anything dramatic, it gives our sauce a marvelous, unidentifi­able savory accent that makes it taste just right.
 ?? SHUTTERSTO­CK ??
SHUTTERSTO­CK

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