The hike: Cebolla Mesa
Cebolla Mesa (CNF 102) is
the only trail in the Carson National Forest that accesses
the Río Grande. The trail begins on the rim of the gorge at almost 7,400 feet. At the beginning of the trail, there are some moderately steep switchbacks descending from the rocky cliff edge. It’s helpful to have a pole for this section as there are
loose rocks and fine sand that make footing difficult.
As the trail gets closer to the Río Grande, it enters a flatter shelf and crosses some small
meadows, marked by rock formations and areas of piñon and juniper. Along the way, red
Indian paintbrush (pictured above) and purple asters are
blooming.
The final stretch contains longer switchbacks, which lead to the big basalt boulders that
line the Río Grande. As you descend into the gorge, you’ll hear the rushing sound of the river grow louder. The black basalt rocks along the river hold the sun and warm the area near the riverbank, creating nice spots for resting or
picnicking.
Near the river, turn right and
follow the trail through a stand of willows to reach the new
bridge that crosses the Red River near its confluence with
the Río Grande. On the other side, there are picnic shelters and an outhouse located in the Wild Rivers area.
On a recent hike, I got an early
start and was able to do the descent in the shade of the rim. The climb back up had less shade and was hot. September has been warm and dry. Be prepared for hot weather: Bring a hat, sunscreen, plenty of water and high-energy
snacks. The descent covers about 1.3 miles and drops 775 feet.
While in the area, you may see whiptail lizards, mountain bluebirds, as well as other birds. Watch where you step to avoid surprising any sleeping
snakes. When I visited recently, a large black bear dashed across the road in front of me, as I was leaving.
Directions
From Taos Plaza, drive north 19 miles on Paseo del Pueblo Norte/State Road 522. Turn
left on Forest Road 9, just after mile marker 15. Continue on the dirt road an additional 3.3
miles to the trailhead. The road is signed “Not suitable for passenger vehicles.” If the road is dry, it is generally passable for
most vehicles, although there are a few large ruts. If it is wet,
it is more challenging. There is an outhouse, along with campsites and picnic tables at the
trailhead.