The Times Herald (Norristown, PA)

New Orleans cemetery has it all

- By BETH J. HARPAZ

The tomb of voodoo queen Marie Laveau in St. Louis Cemetery No. 1, but you just can’t show up on your own .

NEW ORLEANS » If you’ve heard about New Orleans’ famous cemeteries with their above-ground tombs, chances are you’ve heard about the gravesite of the socalled voodoo queen.

Her name was Marie Laveau and she is buried in St. Louis Cemetery No. 1. But visitors looking to visit her grave need to know a couple of things.

First, you can’t sightsee there on your own. Since 2015, tourists have been allowed into the cemetery only on guided tours.

“We were having so much vandalism in the cemetery, in addition to panhandler­s saying they were tour guides and handing visitors markers to mark up the tombs,” said Sherri Peppo, executive director of New Orleans Catholic Cemeteries. “It got out of hand.”

Even with the rules, the cemetery still gets some 200,000 visitors a year on authorized tours. And unlike the sprawling 19thcentur­y garden cemeteries found elsewhere in the country, St. Louis Cemetery No. 1 is tiny and crowded, not much bigger than a square block. Chances are you’ll be snaking in a line along the graveyard’s cramped and narrow paths, taking turns gawking at the vaults where its most famous denizens are spending eternity.

The second thing to know is that Laveau’s story is just one of many fascinatin­g tales connected to this place. You’ll also hear the story behind one of America’s most famous court cases, Plessy v. Ferguson. You’ll get a glimpse of a gleaming white tomb shaped like a pyramid owned by a Hollywood celebrity. And you’ll see the vault where a famous scene from a classic 1960s movie was shot.

ARCHITECTU­RE AND HISTORY

New Orleans is celebratin­g its 300th birthday this year, marking the city’s founding by French settlers in 1718. St. Louis Cemetery No. 1, the city’s oldest graveyard, dates to 1789. Two explanatio­ns are offered for why its

burial vaults are built above ground: because of the high water table and flooding, and because it was a European cultural custom.

The vaults are laid out like little houses in mazelike aisles that feel like tiny streets. Many are surrounded by black iron fences, as if they have private front yards.

“There is no architectu­re in New Orleans, except in the cemeteries,” wrote Mark Twain in his book “Life on the Mississipp­i.” He described the crypts as “graceful and shapely ... their white roofs and gables stretching into the distance,” giving new meaning to “the phrase ‘city of the dead.’”

Some tombs are decorated with sculptures and crosses. Many are in a picturesqu­e state of decay, revealing layers of paint, brick and stone while weeds sprout through the cracks.

Some structures have wall vaults, with family members or individual­s connected through various social organizati­ons interred in separate chambers in one large tomb.

THE FAMOUS INHABITANT­S

A marker on Laveau’s tomb calls her the “notorious voodoo queen ... the most widely known of many practition­ers of the cult.” She died in 1881. Stories that she was also a hairdresse­r explain why some visitors drop ponytail holders and bobby pins at the site. Before the crackdown on vandalism, visitors asking her spirit to intervene for them would sometimes mark Xs on her tomb.

If you’re a serious chess fan, you’ll want to pay your respects at the burial site for Paul Morphy. He was a child prodigy and the greatest player of his era, dying in 1884.

An important name from U.S. civil rights history also appears on a tomb here: Homer Plessy. Plessy was born in New Orleans to Haitian parents and was of mixed European and African descent. Because of his light complexion, he was able to pass for white, but he chose to be the Rosa Parks of his time, purposely breaking a law that segregated passengers on trains. Plessy sat in a car reserved for whites while making his race known to challenge segregatio­n, contending that it violated the 13th and 14th amendments of the U.S. Constituti­on.

Plessy was found guilty by a Louisiana judge, and in 1896, the U.S. Supreme Court upheld that decision in a notorious 8-1 ruling supporting “separate but equal” accommodat­ions. That Plessy v. Ferguson decision stood as a legal justificat­ion for segregatio­n until the 1950s.

THE HOLLYWOOD CONNECTION

Actor Nicolas Cage is alive and well but he’s built a 9-foot-tall tomb shaped like a pyramid as his future resting place in St. Louis No. 1. The pristine white structure bears the words “omnia ab uno,” which means “everything from one.”

Fans of the 1969 cult classic movie “Easy Rider” will recognize the elaborate Italian Benevolent Society tomb as the backdrop for a scene where actors Dennis Hopper and Peter Fonda dropped acid while cavorting with women. The scene was shot without permission and led the archdioces­e to ban filming in the cemetery except for authorized documentar­ies.

Fortunatel­y, tourists are still allowed to take photos here — as long as they’re on one of those authorized tours.

Higher education quests

the college goal in high school and as far back as day care.

In addition, there are now clearingho­uses for travel opportunit­ies and social justice missions which have become more popular among not only college students but also high schoolers. Having one or more of these on a college applicatio­n is deemed by teens and parents to possibly be the necessary edge to get into an elite college. In fact, according to Andy Challenger, vice president of Challenger, Gray, and Christmas, a national firm that follows workplace trends, parents are not exactly pushing their kids out the door. “Their parents aren’t forcing them to get a job,” Challenger said. “Parents are saying there are other things you can do over the summer that will create value for you - and you don’t have to go flip burgers.”

Finally, there are problems regarding how employers view young workers in general. According to a survey by the National Associatio­n of Colleges and Employers, 89.4 percent of recent graduates rated themselves as proficient in their work ethic and profession­alism. Yet, only 42.5 percent of employers shared that view. The Conversati­on is an independen­t and nonprofit source of news, analysis and commentary from academic experts.

 ?? BETH J. HARPAZ — THE ASSOCIATED PRESS ?? This June 3, 2018 photo shows tour guide Jeanne Wilson of Save Our Cemeteries with a group of visitors at St. Louis Cemetery No. 1 in New Orleans. Tourists are only permitted to enter the cemetery on authorized tours led by guides. The regulation­s were imposed because of a history of vandalism in the cemetery.
BETH J. HARPAZ — THE ASSOCIATED PRESS This June 3, 2018 photo shows tour guide Jeanne Wilson of Save Our Cemeteries with a group of visitors at St. Louis Cemetery No. 1 in New Orleans. Tourists are only permitted to enter the cemetery on authorized tours led by guides. The regulation­s were imposed because of a history of vandalism in the cemetery.
 ?? BETH J. HARPAZ — THE ASSOCIATED PRESS ?? Actor Nicolas Cage is alive and well but he owns this gleaming tomb shaped like a pyramid in St. Louis Cemetery No. 1 in New Orleans, pictured in this June 3, 2018 photo. The white 9-foot-tall structure bears the words “omnia ab uno,” which is Latin for “everything from one.”
BETH J. HARPAZ — THE ASSOCIATED PRESS Actor Nicolas Cage is alive and well but he owns this gleaming tomb shaped like a pyramid in St. Louis Cemetery No. 1 in New Orleans, pictured in this June 3, 2018 photo. The white 9-foot-tall structure bears the words “omnia ab uno,” which is Latin for “everything from one.”
 ?? BETH J. HARPAZ — THE ASSOCIATED PRESS ?? This June 3, 2018 photo shows a marker on the burial site for Homer Plessy at St. Louis No. 1 Cemetery in New Orleans. Plessy was an important figure in U.S. civil rights history. He was of European and African descent and challenged segregatio­n laws, sitting in a train car for whites. The U.S. Supreme Court ruled in 1896 that “separate but equal” accommodat­ions were legal, and that decision, known as Plessy v. Ferguson, stood as a legal justificat­ion for segregatio­n until the 1950s.
BETH J. HARPAZ — THE ASSOCIATED PRESS This June 3, 2018 photo shows a marker on the burial site for Homer Plessy at St. Louis No. 1 Cemetery in New Orleans. Plessy was an important figure in U.S. civil rights history. He was of European and African descent and challenged segregatio­n laws, sitting in a train car for whites. The U.S. Supreme Court ruled in 1896 that “separate but equal” accommodat­ions were legal, and that decision, known as Plessy v. Ferguson, stood as a legal justificat­ion for segregatio­n until the 1950s.

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