The Week (US)

Charleston, S.C.: Barbecue’s new mecca

- Lewis Barbecue Rodney Scott’s BBQ Home Team BBQ

Move over, Austin, said Bill Addison in Eater.com. Charleston, S.C., which was a culinary hot spot already, is suddenly “one of the most important barbecue junctions in America.”The pretty, historic city has had its share of appealingl­y humble joints serving fine Memphis- or Kansas City– style ribs. But in the past year, two pitmasters “of Olympian stature” have each chosen Charleston as the stage for a run at immortalit­y. Better yet, because John Lewis and Rodney Scott have different specialtie­s, no one has to decide which master to visit—“you go to both.”

John Lewis learned the smoking trade at Austin’s revered Franklin BBQ before displaying his mastery at nearby La Barbecue. His brisket, with its peppery exterior and “near-custardy” insides, defies explanatio­n: “No beef can possibly be this rich.” But it is, and the Saturday-only beef ribs would be the only excuse for not ordering it. 464 N. Nassau St., (843) 805-9500

Scott grew up smoking whole hogs a couple hours away at his family’s own legendary smokehouse, and when he roasts a hog just right, the chopped meat is “transcende­nt”—“almost creamy in its lushness” and shot through with smoke, cracklings, chile heat, and a vinegary twang. What’s more, “Scott and his easygoing warmth magnetize people,” giving his first solo venture a “uniquely wonderful spirit.” 1011 King St., (843) 990-9535

A third pitmaster, Aaron “Fiery Ron” Siegel, was already building a smoked-meat Charleston empire before Lewis and Scott arrived, and his three local Home Team BBQs remain prime spots for pulled pork and addictive smoked chicken wings slathered in Alabama white sauce. 1205 Ashley River Road and two other locations

 ??  ?? Scott: A smokehouse prince
Scott: A smokehouse prince

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