Orange wine: Here to stay

“Stop treating orange wines as quirky,” said Jon Bonné in the online magazine Punch. It’s now been 20 years since winemakers revived the ancient practice of letting the juice of white grapes sit on the skins, and the method has spread worldwide. What we’ve learned is that orange wines drink more like reds than like whites. The three wines below are exemplars, and “arguably their ideal time is fall or winter.”

($23). In this chinuri from Georgia, “there’s a creamy side to the ripe apple and persimmon flavors.”

($46). Quieter than many other orange wines, this Italian blend offers “a dark, graphite minerality” and roasted orange notes.

($44). This Umbrian wine combines “a sweet fruit aspect” with “black-walnut tannin.”