Pumpkin risotto: A ‘bridge’ dish in the Venetian manner
Il primo, the course that acts as a bridge in an Italian meal, is never to be taken lightly, says Mimi Thorisson in Old World Italian (Clarkson Potter). Often it consists of pasta, and “there is no hiding; you must deliver.” Because perfection is required, “I have never, and will never, cook pasta without a hint of fear and excitement.” And risotto is the same: You have already enjoyed the antipasti with a glass of great wine. “Now there is a small amount of rice in front of you,” as well as wine, and if the risotto is right, “it’s not a filler; it’s a delight—a few forks of pleasure.”
The risotto below is a go-to recipe for the Venetian family who introduced us to their city, and it’s “very much in the Venice tradition.” Pumpkin and radicchio di Treviso play a big part. But to approach perfection, you do need to start with a good vegetable stock, which is easy enough to make. “When people ask me for cooking advice, one of the first things I usually suggest is making their own stock or broth. Lots of it. All of the time.” 3 carrots, coarsely chopped 4 celery stalks, coarsely chopped 4 sprigs fresh thyme
1 bay leaf
2 sprigs fresh parsley
1 tsp black peppercorns
For the risotto: 1 tsp grated fresh or ground dried turmeric 3 oz Gorgonzola cheese, crumbled
In a large stockpot, combine all ingredients for the stock plus 2 quarts water. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce heat to low and continue to simmer for 3 hours. Halfway through, stir the vegetables. Strain stock through a sieve. In a large saucepan, return the stock to a simmer over mediumhigh heat, then reduce heat to low, maintaining a simmer.
In a separate saucepan, heat 2 tbsp olive oil over medium heat. Add diced pumpkin and Treviso and season with salt. Cook until softened, 15 to 20 minutes. Spoon mixture into a bowl and set aside. Wipe out pan. Add remaining 2 tbsp olive oil to saucepan and heat over medium heat. Add shallots and cook until softened, about 3 minutes. Add rice and stir well to coat. Sauté for a few minutes. Add a ladle of hot stock along with the pumpkin-Treviso mixture and gently stir. Stir in turmeric. When liquid is mostly absorbed, add another ladle of stock, stirring constantly and adding more once each addition is absorbed, to keep the rice covered at all times. Repeat process, stirring constantly, until rice is creamy but still al dente, 15 to 20 minutes. When rice is done, stir in the Gorgonzola and adjust salt. Bring to table immediately. Serves 8.