The Week (US)

Houston: An ever-evolving steakhouse capital

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“Houstonian­s are serious about steakhouse­s,” said Bao Ong in the Houston Chronicle. Texas raises some of the best beef in the nation, so it stands to reason that locally sourced options are fantastic. Some chefs, though, are doing their best work with imported, premium wagyu. The three new-guard options, which join old-school institutio­ns like Pappas Bros. and Taste of Texas on our latest list of the city’s best steakhouse­s, are pushing boundaries and raising standards. Andiron “A sumptuous design” and “magnificen­t” open kitchen with a 22-foot wood-burning grill made this 10-month-old steakhouse in the Allen Parkway corridor “one of the must-do dining experience­s” of 2023. “That ember-stoked grill is where the magic happens,” as live fire meets top cuts of American Prime and Japanese and Australian wagyu. Good wines, “impeccable service,” and sides like crispy brandade bits with osetra add to the allure. 3201 Allen Parkway B&B Butchers & Restaurant A relative newcomer at just nine years old, B&B stands out thanks to its in-house butcher shop, and it consistent­ly delivers “big-ticket good times for both the wealthy and aspiration­al.” Choose the old-school chateaubri­and for two, or a Kobe rib eye that meets “the highest standards of wagyu dreams.” Power sides include foie gras, truffle butter, and crab or lobster scampi. 1814 Washington Ave. Karne This upscale Korean steakhouse in the Heights is “not your traditiona­l meat-and-sides establishm­ent.” Servers cook hanger, filet, and wagyu tableside. The highlight is the $60-perperson “Karnivore” platter, which includes five chef’s cuts and superb sides like the “pillowy” egg soufflé and “nasal-clearing” kimchi stew. 2805 White Oak Drive

 ?? ?? Andiron’s ‘sumptuous’ digs
Andiron’s ‘sumptuous’ digs

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