There’s chicken in store
Rotisserie takeout birds fly to the rescue as fast, flavorful components in a range of recipes
Takeout rotisserie chickens are more than fast and convenient. They can be downright scrumptious. Turning on a spit keeps juices distributed throughout the meat. Plus, flavorful drippings fall from one revolving bird to the next, keeping them well-basted. No wonder they’re so popular.
Sure, there are Costco’s birds, juicy and flavorful, but I’m one of those folks who is warehousechain cautious during the pandemic. I’ve sought out new sources, several eateries among them. One of my favorites is the Noble Bird Rotisserie in Long Beach at Second and Pacific Coast Highway.
Executive Chef Andrew Bice brought a well-thought-out menu to the location, which opened last year. Along with an array of tasty side dishes, Bice developed two styles of rotisserie chicken: a traditional herb and lemon bird as well as a tangy “G” Chicken with Korean gochugaru chili flakes and orange, as well as lemon, garlic, ginger, soy sauce and honey. The pasture-raised chickens are brined for 24 hours and slowcooked on a spit.
They are available in whole or half portions.
All dishes are dairy-free, including a chef’s special pot pie with shredded rotisserie chicken and an enticing combination of vegetables. Vegan butter replaces butter, and oat milk replaces milk. I’ve included an adapted recipe here with dairy substitutions.
While the rotisserie chicken can be happily eaten as is, its versatility as an ingredient in quick-to-prepare dishes is endless. Noodle soup made with pieces of rotisserie chicken is delicious. The stock that is the backbone of the dish can be made overnight in a low-heat oven. It puts the leftover bones from the chicken to work, teaming them with vegetables for their eight-hour oven slog.
Noble Bird’s adapted rotisserie chicken and vegetable pot pies
Yield: 4 servings (If you want larger servings, use 2 larger heatproof bowls to serve two)
INGREDIENTS
• 1rotisserie chicken
Dough:
• 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons allpurpose flour, plus more for rolling out
• Pinch of salt
• 8 tablespoons cold, unsalted butter (or cold vegan butter), cut into 8 pieces
• 4 tablespoons ice water — without the ice
• Egg wash: 1 egg, lightly beaten with a fork
Sauce:
• 2 tablespoons butter (or vegan butter)
• 3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
• 2 cups whole milk (or 1 cup oat milk and 1 cup vegetable broth), heated
• Salt and pepper to taste • Small amount of milk (or vegetable broth) to prevent skin forming on sauce as it rests
Vegetable mixture:
• 1-2 tablespoons vegetable oil, canola oil or extra-virgin olive oil
• 8 fresh green beans, trimmed, cut into 1 1/2-inch pieces
• 3/4 cup chopped fresh white or cremini mushrooms
• 1 large shallot, finely chopped • 1 large garlic clove, finely chopped
• 1 large, peeled carrot, cut into 1/4-inch dice
• 3 large celery stalks, cut into 1/4-inch dice
• 1 1/2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh sage • 1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh parsley
• 3 cooked fingerling potatoes, halved lengthwise, blanched or roasted until fork tender
Cook’s notes: For a dairy-free version, use ingredients that are in parentheses. For 4 servings, I use ovenproof cappuccino cups that hold just almost 2 cups; they are 3 1/2 inches deep and 5 inches wide.
PROCEDURE
1 . Remove skin and bones from enough chicken (save bones if making stock) to make 1 cup. Cut or shred chicken into bite-size pieces. Set aside.
2 . Prepare crust: Adjust oven rack to middle position and preheat oven to 350 degrees. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Add 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons flour to food processor; add a pinch of salt. Pulse one time to combine. Add butter and pulse until butter is in tiny pieces and the mixture looks like coarse cornmeal, about 10 seconds. With machine running, add ice water through the feed tube 1 tablespoon at a time, stopping as soon as the mixture holds together when pinched
(you may not need to add all 4 tablespoons). Turn dough onto parchment paper and bring together into a flat disc. Enclose in parchment and refrigerate 30 minutes.
3 . Meanwhile, prepare sauce: In a 2-quart saucepan, melt butter on medium heat. Stir in flour and cook, stirring, until frothy and heated through but not browned, 1-2 minutes. Remove from heat and whisk in heated milk. Whisk on medium heat until sauce comes to a boil. Boil 2-3 minutes, stirring constantly. Remove from heat and add salt and pepper to taste. Set aside. To prevent a film forming, top off surface with a thin film of broth or milk.
4 . On a lightly floured surface, roll dough out to a 1/4-inch thickness. Using bowl as a template, cut 4 circles a little smaller than the circumference of the bowls. Place on parchmentlined baking sheet. Using a pastry brush, brush tops of dough with egg wash, being careful not to let it run off the sides of the dough. Bake until golden brown, about 12-15 minutes. Remove from oven. Do not turn off oven.
5 . Meanwhile, prepare vegetable mixture: Ina skillet, heat oil on mediumhigh heat. Add green beans, mushrooms, shallot and garlic; cook 1 minute, stirring occasionally. Add carrot, celery, sage, parsley, potatoes and chicken. Cook until vegetables are heated through and have a little browning here and there, about 3-5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Do not overcook; the green beans should still have some crunch and the other vegetables should be tender crisp. Taste. Add a little salt if needed.
6 . Assembly: Stir in the thin layer of milk or broth used to prevent film from forming into the sauce. Add 1/2 cup sauce to each of 4 ovenproof cups. Divide vegetables among cups, pressing them down just a little bit into the sauce with the back of a spoon (do not stir in). Place cups on rimmed baking sheet and pop into the heated oven, long enough for them to be piping hot, about 7-10 minutes. Gently place a crust on top of each. Serve.
Source: Adapted from Andrew Bice, executive chef, Noble Bird Rotisserie, 6400 E. Pacific Coast Highway (off Marina Drive), Long Beach
Easy overnight chicken stock
Yield: 1 quart
INGREDIENTS
• 1 roast chicken carcass • 1skin-on yellow onion, root trimmed, quartered • 1-2 carrots, quartered
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 1 leek, green parts and all, well washed, quartered
• 4 large garlic cloves, unpeeled, lightly smashed • 1bay leaf
• A few Italian parsley sprigs
• 1 tablespoon tomato paste
• 1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns
Cook’s notes: I keep tomato paste in a zipper-style plastic bag in the freezer. That way when I need a small portion I cut off what is needed. As for saving the bones? Yes, I collect them off plates of family members after the meal if the chicken is served bone-in. I suspect cookbook author Michael Ruhlman uses a convection oven for stock making. I find that upping the temp from his suggested 200 degrees to 225 works better in my conventional oven. He includes a great onion tip for stock making. He doesn’t peel the brown onions, explaining that onion skin enhances the color and flavor.
PROCEDURE
1 . Combine all ingredients in an ovenproof, 3-quart saucepan. Pour enough water to cover ingredients by 2-3 inches. When you are ready to turn in, put pan, uncovered, in the oven.
Turn oven to 225 degrees. In the morning, or after 8 hours, turn oven off.
2 . Strain through a fine-mesh sieve into a container or pan; cool. Refrigerate and use within 5 days, or freeze.
Source: Adapted from “From Scratch” by Michael Ruhlman (Abrams, $40)
Chicken noodle soup
Yield: 4 servings INGREDIENTS
• Kosher salt to taste • 8 ounces egg noodles • 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
• 2 garlic cloves, minced • 1 medium yellow onion, diced
• 1 large carrot, peeled, diced
• 2 celery stalks, diced • 5-6 cups easy overnight chicken stock (recipe included) or store-bought chicken broth
• 4-6 thyme sprigs, tied together with cotton string if you have it — to make it easier to fish out • Optional: 1 tablespoon fish sauce
• 1 cup shredded or diced, cooked, boneless, skinless chicken
• 1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh parsley • Finely grated zest of 1/2 lemon
• Optional for passing: hot sauce, such as Frank’s RedHot
PROCEDURE
1 .Bring a medium saucepan of well-salted water to a boil over high heat. Cook the noodles according to package directions until al dente. Drain in colander and run a little cold water on them. Set aside.
2 . Meanwhile, heat oil in a Dutch oven or large pan on medium-high heat. Add garlic and cook 30 seconds. Add carrot, celery and a pinch of salt. Cook for 2 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add stock along with thyme and (if using) fish sauce. Bring to a gentle simmer and cook 5 minutes. Add chicken and noodles. Bring soup back to a simmer. Serve immediately, garnishing each serving with fresh parsley and lemon zest. Pass the hot sauce for optional use.
Source: “From Scratch” by
Michael Ruhlman (Abrams,
$40)
Curried chicken and melon salad
INGREDIENTS
Yield: 8 servings
• 1/2 cup mayonnaise
• 1/3 cup plain yogurt
• 1/3 cup sour cream
• 1 tablespoon curry powder, see cook’s notes
• 3/4 pound cooked chicken, bones and skin removed, cut into 1/2inch cubes
• 1 cup green or red seedless grapes, stemmed, halved if large
• 1/2 medium honeydew, peeled, seeded, cut into 1/4-inch cubes
• 1/2 medium cantaloupe, peeled, seeded, cut into 1/4-inch cubes
• 1 1/2 cups (1/4-inch pieces) trimmed celery • 4 green onions, sliced, including half of dark green stalks
• Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
• 6 cups mixed baby greens
• 1 cup slivered almonds, toasted, see cook’s notes
Cook’s notes: Curry powder is used to spike the dressing with the alluring aroma and taste of dried herbs and spices. Contents of commercial curry powder blends vary from brand to brand, but generally speaking, they fall into two basic styles: standard and the hotter “Madras.” In this salad, use the style that most suits your taste. I like to add a diced peach or two diced apricots to the salad when they’re in season. To toast slivered almonds, place on rimmed baking sheet and place in 350-degree oven about 3-4 minutes, or until nicely browned. Watch carefully because nuts burn easily. Set aside to cool.
PROCEDURE
1 . To make dressing, whisk mayonnaise, yogurt, sour cream and curry powder in small bowl; set aside.
2 .In large bowl, place chicken, grapes, melons, celery and green onion. Add dressing and salt and pepper; gently toss to lightly coat contents with dressing. Taste and adjust seasoning as needed.
3 . Place baby greens on serving platter. Top with chicken salad and toasted almonds. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
Source: “Everyday Cooking With Organic Produce” by Cathy Thomas (Wiley, $29.95)