Times Standard (Eureka)

Maple chicken skewers evoke Asia’s street vendors

- By Christophe­r Kimball

Street vendors cross East Asia scrunch small pieces of meat onto skewers and baste them over hot coals with a sweet and savory sauce. Amid the sizzle and aromatic puffs of smoke, the sauce thickens to a luscious glaze, and — importantl­y — the meat cooks up fast.

This combinatio­n of speed and bold flavor has always appealed to us at Milk Street, but for weeknight skewers we exchange the open-air grill for the easy, controlled heat of a broiler. The near-direct heat chars the peaks of the skewered meat, and the valleys catch little pools of caramelizi­ng sauce.

These savory-sweet chicken skewers from our book “COOKish,” which limits recipes to just six ingredient­s without sacrificin­g flavor, are loosely based on Japanese yakitori. We layer on the flavors — first as a quick marinade for the chicken, then as a basting sauce, and finally as a finishing sauce. The final coating helps sesame seeds or scallions — or both — adhere to the chicken.

Maple syrup may not be traditiona­l, but it punches up the flavor of the glaze with more complexity than traditiona­l sugar without additional ingredient­s. And the heat of freshly grated ginger helps to balance the sugars in the soy sauce glaze.

Serve with rice and a crunchy slaw or make into a sandwich or wrap with shredded vegetables and a smear of mayonnaise. For easy cleanup, line the baking sheet with foil.

Maple and soy–glazed chicken skewers

Start to finish: 40minutes Servings: 4

½ cup soy sauce 1tablespoo­n finely grated fresh ginger OR 3 medium garlic cloves, finely grated OR both

2 tablespoon­s neutral oil

¼ cup maple syrup

1½ teaspoons sherry vinegar OR cider vinegar

2 pounds boneless, skinless chicken thighs, halved lengthwise

Sesame seeds, toasted OR thinly sliced scallions OR both

Stir together the soy, ginger and oil. In another bowl, combine 3 tablespoon­s of that with the maple syrup and vinegar. Toss the chicken with the remaining soy mixture. Heat the broiler with a rack 4 inches from the element. Scrunch the chicken onto metal skewers, then set on a rimmed baking sheet. Broil until well browned, about 12 minutes, flipping once. Brush lightly with the soy-maple mixture, then broil until lightly charred, 2 to 3 minutes per side. Brush with remaining soy-maple mixture, then sprinkle with sesame seeds.

 ?? MILK STREET ?? Maple and Soy-Glazed Chicken Skewers.
MILK STREET Maple and Soy-Glazed Chicken Skewers.

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