Travel Guide to California

CUISINE

Dining Out

- BY LAURA NESS

ALFRESCO DINING

All up and down the state dining in the open air is popular, as it is here in Pasadena, above. Los Angeles is known for its wide variety of exquisite restaurant­s, and its cousin to the north, San Francisco, has more restaurant­s per capita than any other U.S. city.

The results are in

and it’s official: the Bay Area of the Golden State has finally bested New York for the greatest number of Michelin three-starred restaurant­s, with seven now, compared to five in New York City and two in Chicago. For those who have made Star-bagging an official bucket list thing, this makes California an even more compelling destinatio­n for haute cuisine.

While LA has long been known for its wide variety of exquisite and diverse restaurant­s, San Francisco boasts more restaurant­s per capita than any other U.S. city. It comes as no surprise that of the 166 Michelin-starred restaurant­s nationwide for 2019, a full third of them are San Francisco establishm­ents.

Old standards that have been around for decades, like Tadich Grill, establishe­d in 1849 and the oldest in California, along with Sam’s Grill, est. 1867, still hold their own against innovative newcomers. SF’S Mission district has become a foodie haven and surroundin­g communitie­s from Berkeley to Palo Alto to Napa and Sonoma all bring fine food to the table.

Like everything else in California from politics to entertainm­ent, food is a celebrity-driven business, to wit, SOMA darling Internatio­nal Smoke, a collaborat­ion between Michael Mina and Ayesha Curry (wife of NBA superstar Steph). But star power inspires, and many have followed the lead of garden-to-table pioneer Alice Waters.

As the birthplace of the farm-to-table movement that took the country by storm, the culinary scene here is a mix of where to

be seen and those unseen farmers and field laborers who actually do all the dirty work necessary to put food on tables. Over one thousand farmers markets and CSA’S thrive here, more than in any other state.

Sustainabi­lity is the keyword in all things agricultur­e, and we can tip our hat to the Monterey Bay Aquarium for its impactful Seafood Watch program that helps diners make informed choices at places like Cindy’s Waterfront and Passionfis­h (Pacific Grove).

Sonoma and Marin counties have become cheese tourism havens and apple lovers can pick their fill in Sebastopol and El Dorado’s Apple Hill.

Coastside, berry farms (Swanton) and pumpkin patches (Arata’s, Half Moon Bay) beckon: visit Harley Farms for adorable goats and exquisite cheese (Pescadero).

Many restaurant­s have on-site gardens, including The Restaurant at Wente (Livermore), Chez TJ (Mountain View) and Cielo Verde, one of LA’S most impressive urban greenhouse­s.

California’s olive oil production is booming, with Stella Cadente (Fort Bragg), Olivina (Livermore) and Olea (Paso Robles) all producing decadent flavor-infusions.

LA & Environs

Trendy LA area dining spots include American Beauty, Bon Temps, Clark Street, Craft, Dialogue, Eszett, Found Oyster, ink.well, Journeymen, L’opera, Onda, Otium, Pasjoli, Providence, The Stalking Horse, Umi by Hamasaku and Uovo, renowned for its fresh pasta. République, French bakery, café and ice creamery, is the popular creation of Margarita and Walter Manke, who previously opened three restaurant­s in Carmel, including L’auberge Carmel. Plant Food + Wine speaks to vegans.

LA restaurant­s that earned Michelin stars prior to 2010 include Asanebo, Cut, Mélisse,

Osteria Mozza, Patina, Spago, Sushi Zo, Valentino and Water Grill.

San Diego

San Diego’s food scene is currently buzzing over Addison, Born & Raised, Barbusa, Barleymash, Candor, Chiko, Cucina Urbana, Din Tai Fung, George’s at the Cove, Herb & Wood, Hidden Fish, Il Dandy, Juniper and Ivy, Lionfish, Mister A’s, Puesto, Rare Society, Royale, Searsucker, Siamo Napoli and Soichi Sushi.

San Francisco Bay Area

Aglow with 6o Michelin star restaurant­s for 2020, the region maintains its dominance over New York City as the epicenter of the U.S. culinary realm for the third year in a row. Dominique Crenn at last became the first female chef to achieve three-star status for Atelier Crenn, celebratin­g with Single Thread Farms (Healdsburg) as triple-star winners. She was also awarded one star for Bar Crenn, joining other one-star newcomers Birdsong, Madcap, Nico and Protégé. Other Bay Area three-star establishm­ents now boast Benu, Coi, French Laundry, Meadowood, Manresa, Quince and Single Thread, while Acquerello, Baumé, Californio­s, Commis and Lazy Bear sport two Michelin stars. Make your reservatio­ns now!

Silicon Valley

Selby's in Atherton is the latest classic from Bacchus Group (Village Pub, Spruce), while Protégé in Palo Alto stars French Laundry alums. ASA Los Gatos and Sidecar Modern Tavern join Nick’s as new local favorites. Luxe dining divas Chez TJ, The Plumed Horse and The Village Pub all boast Michelin stars. Madera at Rosewood Sand Hill boasts Wine Spectator’s Grand Award. Vino Cruz offers the best collection of Santa Cruz Mountains wines paired with creative cuisine.

Seacoast Stars

Think Mendocino for romantic, sometimes hidden coastal dining stars, like Chef Marc Dym’s Little River Inn, Chef Nicolas Petti’s Mendo Bistro, and Michelin-starred Chef Matt Kemerer’s Harbor House in Elk. Brewery Gulch Inn is a gourmand’s delight and The Wild Fish in Albion sets new standards for seaside dining. The Madrones in Anderson Valley offers centralize­d wine tasting, gourmet food and posh accommodat­ions, and Mendocino’s beautifull­y preserved Joshua Grindle Inn offers rest and respite.

Carmel & Monterey

Newly re-opened Ventana and Pacificper­ched Sierra Mar at Post Ranch beckon in Big Sur, while Michelin-starred Aubergine tops the list in Carmel, joined by Il Grillo, La Balena, Seventh & Dolores, Anton & Michel and recently reopened Carmel Bouchée. Carmel Valley boasts Lucia at Bernardus Lodge, helmed by esteemed Chef Cal Stamenov, along with Café Rustica, Carmel Valley Chophouse and Roux. Feast on the freshest local catches at Wild Fish in Pacific Grove, where Monterey coastal cuisine is front and center at Poppy Hall, and Fandango’s incomparab­le Old World charm continues to impress.

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 ??  ?? KITCHEN CREW working at Valette, Healdsburg, right.
KITCHEN CREW working at Valette, Healdsburg, right.

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