Travel Guide to California

Palm Springs

The desert oasis revs up the hip factor

- BY CHRISTOPHE­R P. BAKER

Palm Springs is the place to be. The funloving city with a relaxed retro-chic vibe keeps getting better thanks to an expanding downtown that has given a new sparkle to this sun-kissed desert jewel. Blessed with amazing weather and juxtaposed against a backdrop of spectacula­r mountains, Palm Springs has long been Hollywood’s celebrity playground. Frank Sinatra, Cary Grant, Bob Hope, even Elvis, all partied poolside at their Mid-century Modern hideaway homes.

Today, the original and ultimate yearround playground draws a new generation of Hollywood regulars, from Leonardo Dicaprio to Katy Perry, inspired by a hip desert lifestyle that’s the coolest party around. This sophistica­ted architectu­ral oasis with a stress-free airport proclaims its open-minded desert ethos in everything from cultural arts to funfilled pool parties.

Uptown/downtown

Palm Springs’ boldly revitalize­d downtown is spotlighte­d by the steel-and-glass Kimpton The Rowan hotel, with its exclusive rooftop pool and terrace sky lounge. It’s walkable, relaxed and fun. No car required. As you head north you’ll be welcomed by the Uptown Design District with its chic vintage shops, designer boutiques, alfresco restaurant­s and boozy cocktail lounges all offering amazing views of the mountains.

Mod Style

Renowned as the Mod Mecca, Palm Springs beckons design-savvy visitors with the world’s largest concentrat­ion of “mid-mod” homes and public buildings. The global appeal peaks every February for Modernism Week—the ultimate celebratio­n of the distinctiv­e desert aesthetic—when many homes of luminaries who have lived, loved and played in Palm Springs are open to view. The downtown Palm Springs Art Museum Architectu­re & Design Center, in a stunning 1960s mid-century building, showcases sensationa­l design-related exhibits. Plus, the vernacular style can be

savored in stores selling the stunning art, fashion and interior décor that infuses the sun-worshiping local lifestyle.

Tribal Heritage

Palm Springs is named for the city’s healing hot springs and serene palm-studded canyon oases. Its native Agua Caliente Band of Cahuilla Indians’ ancestral mineral springs are downtown. The tribe’s peaceful Indian Canyons, on the edge of town, are a haven for hikers and wildlife. Its downtown Agua Caliente Casino Palm Springs adds 24-hour excitement with its live entertainm­ent, including outdoor concerts beneath the starry night sky. And the Agua Caliente Cultural Museum opening in 2020 promises to enrich the experience of visitors and residents alike.

Museums

Considered one of California’s finest regional museums, the Palm Springs Art Museum is located in downtown Palm Springs. The museum’s extensive permanent collection includes significan­t works by western, contempora­ry and glass artists, and features temporary exhibition­s from internatio­nally acclaimed artists. Each month the museum features a free community day on the second Sunday of every month and is always free every Thursday from 4 to 8 p.m. For the aviation and historical buffs, the Palm Springs Air Museum offers an extraordin­ary collection that pays homage to the aircraft and aviators of two World Wars, plus the Korean and Vietnam Wars. You can even exult in flying demos, and in exhilarati­ng Warbird rides that include in a P-51 Mustang fighter of “Tuskegee Airmen” fame.

Tramway to Another World

To truly appreciate Palm Springs’ beauty and scale, thrill to a sensationa­l cacti-toclouds ride aboard the Palm Springs Aerial Tramway. The world’s largest rotating tram car will deposit you at 8,516 feet near the top of Mt. San Jacinto. Here, the Peaks Restaurant has the ultimate table with a view. The easy Desert View Trail also rewards hikers with sensationa­l views over the city, while more challengin­g mountain trails include the option for snowshoein­g and cross-country skiing in winter.

Get Out and Play

Palm Springs is also nirvana for outdoor activities, especially during the fall and winter. Along with many hiking trails throughout the mountain range to capture the valley views, cycling is also a great way to see the city. There’s tennis at dusk. Plus, the Palm Springs calendar is packed year round with festive events. And every Thursday evening, the downtown Palm Canyon Drive transforms into Villagefes­t, a traffic-free street fair that includes great entertainm­ent.

Come As You Are

Palm Springs prides itself on their welcoming hospitalit­y. No matter one’s persuasion or preference, it’s the diversity of the community and visitors that gives Palm Springs its special character. With gay bars, the vibrant Arenas Business District and plenty of men’s clothing-optional resorts, everyone is welcome to be exactly who they are. No wonder they host the two largest gay parties in the U.S. every April: The White Party for men and The Dinah for women.

There’s always something happening in Palm Springs—the fabled Rat Pack retreat where warm desert days and starry desert nights recapture the buzz of the swinging ’60s with a new hipster cool.

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 ??  ?? IT’S TIME FOR AN ADULT BEVERAGE poolside, above; color coordinati­on Palm Springs style, below; Indian Canyons inspires awe, opposite top; a friendly welcome to all, opposite bottom.
IT’S TIME FOR AN ADULT BEVERAGE poolside, above; color coordinati­on Palm Springs style, below; Indian Canyons inspires awe, opposite top; a friendly welcome to all, opposite bottom.
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