Travel Guide to California

NORTH COAST

Picturesqu­e fishing harbors, Victorian villages and the world’s tallest trees

- BY JOHN FLINN

TOP CITIES

Mendocino, Eureka, Crescent City, Fort Bragg, Garbervill­e, Arcata, Ukiah, Cloverdale, Ferndale

GATEWAY

The Arcata-eureka Airport (EKA), 16 miles (26 km) from downtown Eureka, has service from San Francisco and other hubs, but no internatio­nal flights

TOURISM WEBSITES delnorte.org exploredel­norte.com northcoast­ca.com visitredwo­ods.com visitmendo­cino.com redwoodcoa­stparks.com

POPULATION 782,000

This should put things in perspectiv­e: The North Coast’s tallest building is only 77 feet tall, but its tallest tree stands 379 feet tall. Until you’ve seen one up close, it’s hard to grasp just how neck-craningly high a coastal redwood tree can grow. These 3,000-year-old arboreal titans—nature’s loftiest skyscraper­s—grow in only one place in the world: a narrow strip of fog-shrouded mountains along California’s wild and relatively unvisited North Coast.

The Redwood Highway

Old-growth redwoods are preserved in a chain of parks strung along Highway 101, known in these parts as the Redwood Highway. In southern Humboldt County, Humboldt Redwoods State Park straddles the scenic drive known as the Avenue of the Giants. In northern Humboldt and Del Norte counties, a cluster of parks— Redwood National Park (which turned 50 in 2018) and Prairie Creek Redwoods, Del Norte Coast Redwoods and Jedediah Smith Redwoods state parks—form one contiguous redwood reserve.

The sounds of chainsaws and buzzing sawmills that once dominated the North Coast are rapidly fading as the lumber industry winds down. In former mill towns such as Fort Bragg, tourism is replacing timber as innovative galleries, restaurant­s and brew-pubs spring to life.

Although it’s sometimes called the Redwood Empire, the North Coast is more than just tall trees: It’s also salmonfish­ing boats bobbing in tiny harbors; Roosevelt elk bugling across misty meadows; steam trains chuffing through a damp and dripping forest; hole-in-thewall restaurant­s serving fish smoked according to traditiona­l Native American

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NORTH COAST
 ??  ?? SUNSHINE, FOG, SEA and forest grace the coast between Crescent City and Eureka, above; Roosevelt elk bulls joust during September breeding season in Redwood National and State Parks, right.
SUNSHINE, FOG, SEA and forest grace the coast between Crescent City and Eureka, above; Roosevelt elk bulls joust during September breeding season in Redwood National and State Parks, right.
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